This is useful:
http://www.table-references.info/met...-dew-point.php
This is useful:
http://www.table-references.info/met...-dew-point.php
Ride fast or be last.
P'raps not. It is, however the same process that was used the first time around, without anything like the materials cost.
But no, I wouldn't be attempting a full re-build of every unit in a house, I'd spend the energy making the original manufacturer's life very very difficult, expired warranty or not.
Fact is most leaks aren't age related, they're pinholes in the sealant that only become apparent when the small amount of dessicant in there becomes saturated. I've seen two or three IGU's fail in a house lot in the first year or two, very few beyond that and failing a spectacular catastrophic sealant decomposition a decade down the track I doubt you'd ever find a whole houseload with the problem.
One caveat: most IGUs will eventually leak if the installation procedure or frame design doesn't allow for adequate drainage. If the laminate is allowed to continually sit in water the unit WILL fail.
DAMpubliclyHIK
Go soothingly on the grease mud, as there lurks the skid demon
At least one window in every house is open throughout the day. The windows in the bathroom are generally cracked open all night. There are gaps between the sliding doors in the lounge, gaps enough to allow for a generous airflow around the room. If it ain't about 12 degrees in the house, we generally don't put the heating on. The heating is a heat pump at one end of the house and a couple of little radiators at the other end of the house... again though, they're hardly ever on (maybe 15 times over winter).
Single level. Tin roof. Not all of them. They pretty much all have condensation (it isn't constant condensation, some days there's feck all). The walls are 2+ inch thick particle/resin board, not sure what the veneer is (no need for jib), but it comes as smooth as a babies bum from the factory, prime and paint, completely waterproof so I highly doubt that they breath and let moisture flow through. Not sure what the paint is. I highly doubt it's the walls as I wanted walls that wouldn't breath, but that's obviously no guarantee. Ceiling and walls are lined with pink bats and wrapped with that weather wrap stuff. Unfortunately we can't go back to the window people coz the builders were dicks and didn't pay the window company for their houses and subsequently the window folk went out of business. I'm leaning towards the windows being shite. Those little weep holes for the condensation run off allow cold air to riser through them at night. I blocked them once upon a time and to an extent it helped, but as there was still condensation that wasn't a long term strategy. Other houses around us don't suffer as much with condensation, we've compared on like for like nights, but they do suffer... that could be due to them heating their houses to sauna level... having said that we do have triple sliding doors, 2 ceiling to floor metre width windows, 2 lots of 4-5 metre ceiling to floor windows and then lots of "normal" sized windows in the place.
I guess we're a house of heavy breathers and my wife doesn't need a strapon, she has fat fingersThe clothes are dried outside, the ironing gets do by some ironing fairies, when cooking the extractor is on and the window is open,
@exercise... essentially the house is well ventilated, no doors are closed and when yer sitting with socks off you can feel a wee breeze lappin at yer tootsies.
I didn't think!!! I experimented!!!
Political correctness: a doctrine which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd from the clean end.
It finally came to me the type of house you may have.I cant remember the actual brand names.Instead of conventional timber framing the walls are 35mm thick mdf or particle board with melamine coating(very similar to kitchen cabinets),and the ceilings are about 20mm boards of the same type of stuff which are supported by the roof trusses.The exterior is battened and clad/insulated in the normal way.Nowadays the use a 70 mm non structural frame to create the insulation cavity ,they used to just use a 35 or 45 mm batten.
UVPC isnt acrylic
So the structure of his house is supported, not by a frame but with 35mm particle board? In that case it had better be waterproof. Everyone knows what happens to particle board that is constantly moist. They put it into boxes and label it Weetbix. Apparently it is the stuff they use to build All Blacks.
Ride fast or be last.
I didn't think!!! I experimented!!!
I didn't think!!! I experimented!!!
Sounds about right, minced tree sounds like an apt description of what I saw. I believe housing NZ, summit on google, are thinking about using it for the houses they wanna build. It's also used for apartment buildings n other applications too from what I've seen. It certainly allows a house to be erected quickly so that thems indoors can start on prepping earlier than they normally would be able to. You could probably get a house up and water tight within a day giving the Amish a run for their money with a fraction of the manpower, just 30 times the cost.
I didn't think!!! I experimented!!!
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