Oil choices?

**awa355** · 10th August 2011, 17:19

Probably the wrong forum, but what the hell! I',m giving the cruiser its first oil change next week since buying it.
An air cooled twin, don' t know what oil the previous owner ran in it , but he was the 1st owner, and pretty fussy as the bike is immaculate, 16,000 miles.

I thought I would run it on Castrol 4T motorbike semi synthetic.( $61 at supercheap) Any other suggestions?

**p.dath** · 10th August 2011, 17:32

What does the manufacturer recommend?

**awa355** · 10th August 2011, 19:19

Originally Posted by p.dath

What does the manufacturer recommend?

Handbook does not make any reference to fully syn/semi/mineral options.

Recommended grades are 10w30/40 15w40 SE,SF,SG. Not the grades I was querying so much as whether a modern 2 valve aircooled engine would be be better running semi synthetic, or mineral based oil.

Whether there are better value brands cost wise than Castrol?

My previous bike was an air cooled single and never gave any problems with semi syn in the engine.

Another question? Has anyone heard of an engine giving trouble through using aftermarket oil filters. My dealers OE filter is $18.50. Supercheap have an oil filter listed for my bike and for 1/3 the price. It has all the Yamaha models using the filter listed on the packaging.
Is saving $12 worth the risk of engine failure? Not in my book. Then again, Yamaha probably out source the manufacture of filters anyway.

**AllanB** · 10th August 2011, 19:28

Filter brands - depends. They are not all equal - for $6 or so stick with the factory one.

Oil, Pick a bike specific oil at the correct weight and rating and you'll be fine. Yes synthetic is better. You decide if it is worth the extra $ for your bike

I will comment that some bikes behave differently on different oils or brands of oil - my gear box shifting is fussy on oil and brands. It did not preform well with Castrol semi synthetic. Moutul semi was a lot better and the full synth Spectro in there now is the best yet - just don't ask what it cost!

**steve_t** · 10th August 2011, 19:32

Drop Quasi a line. He's the man with the info here. He may even be able to hook you up

**YellowDog** · 10th August 2011, 19:59

If you're going to be changing the oil regularly, like every 5k, going overboard on a $120 a pop fully synthetic Racing Oil will be overkill.

Just so long as you get the right rating and preferrably a semi-synthetic, you'll be fine

**devo** · 10th August 2011, 21:44

Try these
Ive been using the full syn since 20K,(used the semi before so as to let the rings bed in properly ) and wouldnt think of any thing else.
Have been using Total oils in my bikes,cars and 4x4s for the last 6 years and swear by it.
Am currently paying between $10 and $11 per litre.

**pritch** · 11th August 2011, 07:43

Originally Posted by AllanB

I will comment that some bikes behave differently on different oils or brands of oil - my gear box shifting is fussy on oil and brands. It did not preform well with Castrol semi synthetic. Moutul semi was a lot better and the full synth Spectro in there now is the best yet - just don't ask what it cost!

The word "synthetic" is used differently by Castrol (and Shell) to most of the rest of the industry. The Motul and Spectro products are what they say they are.

The Mobil V Twin oil (whatever it is called currently) is also fine in cruisers.

**wysper** · 11th August 2011, 10:45

Originally Posted by pritch

The Mobil V Twin oil (whatever it is called currently) is also fine in cruisers.

+1 on this, I am going to put that in the sporty next change.
I think Quasi was saying it will be available in Repco soon.

But I could be wrong about that.

**Owl** · 11th August 2011, 12:31

While "Mobil 1 4T 15W-50" may not be your thing, this crowd http://www.mobmech.co.nz/diesel-truck-mechanic.html also do Mobil V-Twin and their prices are very good.

They charge 55+ for 4lts of Mobil 1 4T and ship around the country for about $10. Could be worth a phone call?

**awa355** · 11th August 2011, 12:46

Here is something I've just picked up from another website.

"The filtration system and the oil are vital tools for preserving engine life. A highly efficient oil filter is essential to protect an engine by removing both liquid abrasive contaminants held in suspension by the oil. It must be stated and understood with critical importance that there are wide variances in the quality of motor oils. Certain lower quality oils do not have quality base stock oils and additive packages to support intense heat and shear forces and longer drain intervals while other higher quality oils can have significantly longer drain intervals.

Also keep in mind that the micron rating of an engine oil filter means absolutely nothing unless the efficiency (particle capture percentage) of the filter is stated also. If a filter is stated to be a "10 micron filter" but the efficiency graph shows it only traps 5% of the 10 micron particles then it isn't doing much good at filtering out 10 micron particles. For example, one particular oil filter manufacturer's oil filters are 98.7% efficient absolute at removing 15 micron particles. Note that this is an absolute number and not a nominal rating as many other filters are rated at. "

I take it, that the 10 micron eg above, refers to the minimum size of waste particle the filter will take out of the oil. Can't remember ever seeing an 'Efficiency graph' on a filter package.