Ok, so apologies for not giving updates but duty calls and been out of touch. So here's the plan.
After inspection there's actually not much wrong with the original motor, less the fact the flywheel slipped on the crank and fucked up all the ignition timing (porting isn't great but that's another issue). All the bearings etc being flogged out turned out to be a false alarm when compared to new ones. Flywheel is being lightened to try and prevent a reoccurance. Taper has been tidied up but still has some quite deep score marks so could probably do with remachining (volunteers?). Flywheel has some metal its picked up from the crank 'welded' to the inside of the taper that needs to be skimmed out. Other option is to use retaining compound in lieu of tidying up jobs on the crank and flywheel tapers. Anyway it will be put back together pretty much as is to get me back on the track and racing.
Second MB engine will get the full development treatment in slow time. First stage is to replace all the big end and bearings and switch over the 6 speed gearbox from the H100 Husaberg gave me. Second stage will be to throw on a CR80 flywheel and ignition, which is also now sitting in the garage. Third stage will be send the barrel away for a porting job, which is beyond my ability particularly when I read things like ESE thread on transfer port angles and the like. Final stage will be to get an exhaust made up to suit the porting (assuming the current one is no good).
Hilleye
If it doesn't bring a tear to your eye, add a little more fully synth 2T to the mix.
I've seen MB cranks like this before. I just filed off the high spot where it had picked up and put it back together with Loctite bearing mount. I never had a problem on a 14,000rpm engine with it ever coming loose again.
Alright, here are the before and after shots of the flywheel. Have removed the metal ring that seems totally surplus to requirements and skimmed about 2mm off the outer thickness. Hoping that the reduction in reciprocating mass will aid the aid the taper in supporting sudden engine speed changes. If anyone can give me a steer on how to get the remnants of the rivets out I'd be much obliged, it'll save them exiting of their own accord at 10k rpm. Tried punching and pressing, no joy but that was before we removed the ring. Drilling them out has been suggested.
Hilleye
If it doesn't bring a tear to your eye, add a little more fully synth 2T to the mix.
You've got rid of the balancing adjustments.
I've just put some weight back on my flywheel in the hope it helps me get better starts.
Well at least he knows where to redrill some to get a bit closer.
Just chuck the CR one on.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
Hilley for reference can you have a look at the one on the old bucket H100 motor.
There may be a hint there.
Post a pic if you want. It will be a little rusty but there may be a reason for the odd machining on it?
Please please lap in on with grinding paste. Then check the fit with bearing blue. After this is done it will never again give trouble. (Assuming its not totally f...ed)
Or has Dave said put on the smaller lighter one. But the flywheel weight is not a major difference while racing.
We checked the balance of the flywheel before machining, it wasn't great. Nothing else seems to be, why should the flywheel be any different right. For some reason the exterior turned out to have a slight eliptical shape, which I found out when machining it on the lathe, anyway at least its an actual circle now. Anyione else found this phenomenon on an MB flywheel? Thickness is now uniform all the way round the circumference and balance now appears to be better. Time will tell. Worse comes to worst I have two other MB flywheels to fall back on.
Hilleye
If it doesn't bring a tear to your eye, add a little more fully synth 2T to the mix.
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