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Thread: MB100 development

  1. #196
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    12th February 2004 - 10:29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Henk View Post
    Tempted to get some "special Dave fan club" shirts made
    I'd buy at least one

  2. #197
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    25th March 2004 - 17:22
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    You'd need to, they'd slip off you no-shoulders.

    Actually with any tuning you are going to have to stray from std in many cases to be safe. Delayed ignition is always safer & if you spin the engine to higher revs then more often a Delayed position is the right one & std could be over advanced. . . .Something Husaberg has never been accused of.
    Don't you look at my accountant.
    He's the only one I've got.

  3. #198
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    20th January 2010 - 14:41
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    Quote Originally Posted by F5 Dave View Post
    You'd need to, they'd slip off you no-shoulders.

    Actually with any tuning you are going to have to stray from std in many cases to be safe. Delayed ignition is always safer & if you spin the engine to higher revs then more often a Delayed position is the right one & std could be over advanced. . . .Something Husaberg has never been accused of.
    Husaberg has never (yet) suffered from premature ignition........


    So how many "Special Dave" fanclub T shirts Should i put you down for, Dave. The initial run of 10 looks to be almost sold out.

    I hope you don't mind me a"borrowing" your likeness. Not many blokes could pull that outfit off. But you sure work it.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Katman View Post
    I reminder distinctly .




    Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken

  4. #199
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    19th December 2008 - 20:22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hilleye View Post
    Bike has two kill switches in series. One for ordinary shut down, which is essentially brand new and the other 'pull out' one required for street racing, which was on the bike when I got it. Shouldn't be two hard to test continuity of the circuit through them as they're both always 'on' unless pushed or pulled. Will need help with anything more complicated than that.
    Correction to this. As Yow-Ling pointed out to me the switches are normally 'open' and kill the ignition when 'closed'. With this in mind the kill switches are wired so that if either is 'closed', the ignition dies, so probably in parallel, not series as previously mentioned.
    Hilleye

    If it doesn't bring a tear to your eye, add a little more fully synth 2T to the mix.

  5. #200
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hilleye View Post
    Correction to this. As Yow-Ling pointed out to me the switches are normally 'open' and kill the ignition when 'closed'. With this in mind the kill switches are wired so that if either is 'closed', the ignition dies, so probably in parallel, not series as previously mentioned.
    I was just adding it from experience from ignition problems from Pattern XR button style ones and others experience as few people think to check them. looking at your pics and because of your other troubles. I would suspect the stator to be your trouble, but it pays to check them anyway. Yes they just ground the ignition so are in parallel. Not sure about the lanyard ones though. Introduced after I finished.
    Quote Originally Posted by Katman View Post
    I reminder distinctly .




    Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken

  6. #201
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    19th December 2008 - 20:22
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    Quote Originally Posted by husaberg View Post
    Right here is a copy of the TZR race kit Manual for the carb.

    It does say as I alluded too earlier to block it off, but has anyone confirmed that the fueling is wrong on the bike as it is now? If the fueling is ok now, I can't see how it will gain any HP unless the fueling is crap at the moment. I should probably point out this was for this model carb whatever it is and no doubt the Crafty Japanese made a few changes during the model run.

    Maybe Hilly should give us a run-down of the carb jet specs as they are now.
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    Right was rereading this as one is inclined to. Here's the info requested, carb is a Mikuni 1KT (basically same carb as you gave me Hus, remote choke seems to be only difference) running a 350 main jet, which I think is way too big (but the dyno doesn't lie, this one had the best fuel air mix and most power). So I'd say that the carb isn't fuelling very well.

    Essentially what I can tell from the diagrams is that the air jet can either be fed from the plastic tube located at the side or from the opening in the bellmouth. I've now blocked the plastic tube and opened the bellmouth air jet, but haven't drilled it out to 2.5mm in accordance with the F3 racer instructions yet.

    I'm not to familiar with power jets or how they work, but understand what they're designed to achieve. So with this in mind I have a couple of questions. Is the power jet with the setup shown likely to work on the MB100 or is it just going to be further complicating the carb fueling and making jetting it correctly difficult? Do I actually need a power jet or is the carb likely to be able to cope without one?

    Lastly, was looking at trying to set the float level correctly and the current set up has the carb on about a 5-10 degree angle. Is there a trick to this or do I need a brand new CNC machined inlet manifold that puts it at the correct angle? I believe this is potentially contributing to what I think is the emptying of the float bowl in parts of the track (not the straight, its after coming out of the infield twisties, bike just drops right off until its stood up right and fuel seems to start flowing again). Photos to follow.
    Hilleye

    If it doesn't bring a tear to your eye, add a little more fully synth 2T to the mix.

  7. #202
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hilleye View Post
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    Right was rereading this as one is inclined to. Here's the info requested, carb is a Mikuni 1KT (basically same carb as you gave me Hus, remote choke seems to be only difference) running a 350 main jet, which I think is way too big (but the dyno doesn't lie, this one had the best fuel air mix and most power). So I'd say that the carb isn't fuelling very well.

    Essentially what I can tell from the diagrams is that the air jet can either be fed from the plastic tube located at the side or from the opening in the bellmouth. I've now blocked the plastic tube and opened the bellmouth air jet, but haven't drilled it out to 2.5mm in accordance with the F3 racer instructions yet.

    I'm not to familiar with power jets or how they work, but understand what they're designed to achieve. So with this in mind I have a couple of questions. Is the power jet with the setup shown likely to work on the MB100 or is it just going to be further complicating the carb fueling and making jetting it correctly difficult? Do I actually need a power jet or is the carb likely to be able to cope without one?

    Lastly, was looking at trying to set the float level correctly and the current set up has the carb on about a 5-10 degree angle. Is there a trick to this or do I need a brand new CNC machined inlet manifold that puts it at the correct angle? I believe this is potentially contributing to what I think is the emptying of the float bowl in parts of the track (not the straight, its after coming out of the infield twisties, bike just drops right off until its stood up right and fuel seems to start flowing again). Photos to follow.
    You read to much. HA HA

    I would try it with the inlet manifold you got from me the chopped and re drilled RD250 one for a start it sets it on the std factory angle secondly put a foam pod filter and see if you still encounter fueling issues. PS make sure the oil feed at the top of the carb is blocked.

    Float height is in the manual i posted a link for.

    The choke in the carb you got of me is actually a std mb5 part it just happened to fit. Second thought put my choke in your carb as well as this might help!

    Check the fuel line for flow not sure what tank you run but check it. if the orifice or the fuel line is blocked or to small it will be a defacto mainjet. Also check the breather on the fuel tank often over looked.

    I never ran over a 250 main jet with the PJ in place.

    The powerjet in the TZR carb is an odd position. But don't panic the PJ and the main jet together will add up to what the MJ should but if you disable it .I wonder if it is in fact disabled.

    If you want to disable it go back to Dave and speedpros bits above.


    I hope this helps.

    just had a small look on thread but the manual is online i have a copy somewhere if you can't find it pm your email and i will email you the parts of the manual or the link or i will post it for you.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Katman View Post
    I reminder distinctly .




    Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken

  8. #203
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    The MB lives again.
    Hilleye

    If it doesn't bring a tear to your eye, add a little more fully synth 2T to the mix.

  9. #204
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    good work nik, racing on the 7th and 8th $70 for the weekend and then the weekend after with Cams
    My neighbours diary says I have boundary issues

  10. #205
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    19th December 2008 - 20:22
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    Anyone got the number of a Christchurch based M/C wrecker? Spoke to Don at Pitlane he says he sold all his stock to Simon Wooding, but doesn't have any contact details for him.

    End of the clutch cable came off yesterday (one of many things that went wrong, but we persevere for the time being. Least the bike had the decency to break down close to the pits).

    Also spoke to Don about soldering the end back on the cable, he reckons unlikely to be successful particularly with an old cable, anyone else had any dramas with this? Can anyone tell me were I should go to get cable internals made?
    Hilleye

    If it doesn't bring a tear to your eye, add a little more fully synth 2T to the mix.

  11. #206
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hilleye View Post
    Can anyone tell me were I should go to get cable internals made?
    Most likely somewhere like Safe r brakes could do it or budget motorcycles used to have a stock of aftermarket suff you might be able to match something up
    "If you can make black marks on a straight from the time you turn out of a corner until the braking point of the next turn, then you have enough power."


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  12. #207
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    12th February 2004 - 10:29
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    Kart shops typically have a stock of cable making stuff

  13. #208
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    19th December 2008 - 20:22
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    Thanks to all those who offered advice on where to go for the clutch cable. Big thanks to Yow Ling for all his help this weekend, definitely some beers owed to you.

    Anyway so the bike still has a few gremlins, but I aim to shoot them one at a time as they show themselves. At the moment one is proving elusive, I'm certain its a fueling issue, but can't quite sort it.

    Symptoms are after coming out of any sort of extended period lent over, particularly to the right hand side, about 100 - 200m further down the track the bikes power dies right off. By this I mean that the only thing keeping it running is the momentum of the bike, if I pulled the clutch in the motor would stall. It stays this way for what seems like 2 - 3 secs then clears and the bike is off again. At Ruapuna it's doing this after the long right hander out of the in field, which hits coming out of the right hander that follows it before the lefts that lead into the dipper. It's also doing it after the dipper and is hitting right as you go into the sweeper. It has only done this since the bike was dyno tuned and a bigger main jet was installed (no other changes were made).

    Originally I thought it was a supply problem, but now I'm not so convinced. I did find a fuel filter that was restricting flow, but this was replaced and the problem persists. I've tried numerous fuel line configurations (some are shown) on the track none of which seem to clear the problem. I've checked flow with the bike lent right over on both sides and there seems to be no issue with it making it as far as the carb. I've checked the float height, but did this with the carb level (from the pictures you can see it's slightly canted fwd on the bike) should I be setting this level with it sitting on the bike?

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    Original fuel line configuration.

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    Configuration used this weekend. No improvement.

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    Possible fuel filter header tank to rule out any possibility of supply issue.


    I seem to be spending a lot more time working on the bike rather than riding it, which is not really what I'm after. The aim was to become a better rider not better mechanic by taking up racing. Although the latter is not unwelcome, missing four out of five track sessions this weekend with bike malfunctions was frustrating.
    Hilleye

    If it doesn't bring a tear to your eye, add a little more fully synth 2T to the mix.

  14. #209
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    Hmm, well I know what the problem is, but didn't we cover this before? Can't be bothered looking back 14 pages. either way I had this problem on my H when confronted with a long track like Ruapuna. Your carb is on more of an angle than mine.

    So I found that these carbs can suffer from not refilling fast enough. My bodge was to fit an extender on the main jet to get it to reach the bottom of the float bowl. That fixed the issue. I soldered on a brass extension made from an old connector, but anything glued on may work. Did alter the jetting slightly.

    I'd drilled out the float valve but it didn't help.

    But on another carb I found the problem was the horizontal passageway feeding the float valve. I drilled out the brass ball & the passage way & then glued a stopper in the outside hole I'd made & job jobbed.
    Don't you look at my accountant.
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  15. #210
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    Quote Originally Posted by F5 Dave View Post
    Hmm, well I know what the problem is, but didn't we cover this before? Can't be bothered looking back 14 pages.
    No one went in to much detail. Probably because there were a number of other issues presenting simultaneously.

    Quote Originally Posted by F5 Dave View Post
    So I found that these carbs can suffer from not refilling fast enough. My bodge was to fit an extender on the main jet to get it to reach the bottom of the float bowl. That fixed the issue. I soldered on a brass extension made from an old connector, but anything glued on may work. Did alter the jetting slightly.
    Do you think a length of fuel hose stuck over the main jet extending down to the bottom of the float bowl to act as a syphon might work?
    Hilleye

    If it doesn't bring a tear to your eye, add a little more fully synth 2T to the mix.

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