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Thread: The best way to tie a bike down?

  1. #16
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    24th September 2008 - 01:32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Swoop View Post
    How can you use your bra to tie down a load to the pillion seat, or pitch a tent?*




    *Awaits varied entertaining comments...
    ive put a load in a bra before, wasnt quite the size of a bike though

  2. #17
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    13th November 2008 - 10:26
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    From my experience, it depends on how far you are taking the bike, or rather, how long it is going to be tied down. The reason is, it is not good to have the suspension under heavy compression for a long period of time.

    1. If you are only going to be running Akl to Hamilton or some such, OK with the advice just to tie it off or the bra.

    2. If going on a full day or two, then would recommend a different approach.
    a. Tie of the front wheel hard up against the front of the trailer (better still, a wheel clamp). If you do this, the bike has no fore/aft movement and the front has no lateral movement. THIS IS THE KEY TIEDOWN.
    b. Tie rear of bike at rim or axle level (depends on fittings etc) left and right. This stops the bike moving laterally.

    ...with these two ties you have the bike secured in two dimensions totally and the bike can still use its springs.

    c. Then use a tiedown left/right across the top that will stop it tipping over, like the bar bra or even a simple tie both ways to the head clamp area or some rubbing-proof area. The benefit of doing it this way is that this tiedown is only for tip-over type forces and doesn't have to be really forceful and tight, i.e. compress the suspension tightly.

    I have tied down large bikes both ways and can tell you that the above method has worked for multiple days on large heavy bikes for sealed and unsealed roads. The key is tying the front tyre hard against an unshakable stop like the front of the trailer.
    Ralph
    ...the older I get, the faster I was...

  3. #18
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    24th December 2012 - 21:49
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    paddock stand vs pivot tyre clamp AND loading bike onto trailer ramp vs bike lift

    I want to secure the front of the bike from moving sideways during tranport

    Paddock stand vs one of those pivoting clamps for locating the front wheel during transport.

    any suggestions? which would be more useful.

    road bike 250 kg

    AND

    loading and unloading a bike onto a trailer, ramps vs bike lift
    bike not in rideable condition. = pushed on and off
    1 person operation - all weathers, not reliant on electrickery

    READ AND UDESTAND

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by eldog View Post
    I want to secure the front of the bike from moving sideways during tranport

    Paddock stand vs one of those pivoting clamps for locating the front wheel during transport.

    any suggestions? which would be more useful.

    road bike 250 kg
    Fairings - https://www.torpedo7.co.nz/products/...s-with-harness
    No fairings - https://www.torpedo7.co.nz/products/...e-downs-2-pack
    Bugger using a paddock stand but a front wheel chock would be an option although not neccessary, providing you use the tie-downs properly.

    Quote Originally Posted by eldog
    loading and unloading a bike onto a trailer, ramps vs bike lift
    bike not in rideable condition. = pushed on and off
    1 person operation - all weathers, not reliant on electrickery
    Ramp, long enough that the angle is manageable in relation to the height of the trailer.

  5. #20
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    31st March 2005 - 02:18
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    I once transported a bike on a paddock stand inside a trailer... rolled over on the first decent corner. First and last time I ever did that.

    Front wheel chock definitely. Depends on how you're transporting. A trailer and it can be as simple as rolling into the corner, or a couple of angle pieces of timber either side of the front wheel. For my van I've got wheel chocks bolted to sheets of ply that I slide into the van. You get several versions, I've got the SCA one (older silver version of this: http://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/Prod...ultifit/320957) which allows the chock to change size for the size of the front wheel.

    The likes of Cycletreads also has smaller ones (more like loops) and can quick lock into place on stubs. A few other styles available worldwide.

    As for ramp, I use a bi-fold aluminium ramp rated for 340kg. You definitely don't want anything under 2m for a typical load height of 600-700mm. Folding means you don't have to store an enormous ramp but more expensive than a plank of wood. Be careful of the cheap ramps not being rated for heavy road bikes (cheap ones are usually 100-150kg rated).

    As for single handed loading, I can load the CB919 and others without power with a run up (don't fuck it up) but no way can I load the GSA (240-270kg) single handed without the engine running. Too big, too heavy etc. Practise also helps especially if you're loading the same bike over and over.
    Quote Originally Posted by Jane Omorogbe from UK MSN on the KTM990SM
    It's barking mad and if it doesn't turn you into a complete loon within half an hour of cocking a leg over the lofty 875mm seat height, I'll eat my Arai.

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gremlin View Post
    I once transported a bike on a paddock stand inside a trailer... rolled over on the first decent corner. First and last time I ever did that.

    Front wheel chock definitely. Depends on how you're transporting. A trailer and it can be as simple as rolling into the corner, or a couple of angle pieces of timber either side of the front wheel. For my van I've got wheel chocks bolted to sheets of ply that I slide into the van. You get several versions, I've got the SCA one (older silver version of this: http://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/Prod...ultifit/320957) which allows the chock to change size for the size of the front wheel.

    As for ramp, I use a bi-fold aluminium ramp rated for 340kg. You definitely don't want anything under 2m for a typical load height of 600-700mm. .
    paddock stand - well you answered that one!

    SCA - will look at cycle treads and others - multifit seems best

    I was looking for that sort of info for the ramp. TA

    READ AND UDESTAND

  7. #22
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    Not knowing your setup, firstly is your deck clean? It doesn't take much in the way of smalls tones or gravel under even normal freight for things to move around with vibration, even strapped in.
    Taken a few bikes in truck as general cargo, the bestway was always parked on its sidestand (triangle of stability) if had the space. Tiedown pulling back and one pulling forwards and a gentle strap over seat was plenty.
    Front wheel moving suggests its trying to rotate due to uneven restraint loading.
    Govt gives you nothing because it creates nothing - Javier Milei

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by R650R View Post
    Taken a few bikes in truck as general cargo, the bestway was always parked on its sidestand (triangle of stability) if had the space. Tiedown pulling back and one pulling forwards and a gentle strap over seat was plenty.
    I never tie down to the stand as often the stand isn't designed to take that load (similar reason BMW says don't sit on the bike with it on side stand for my GSA). In same cases like MV, the side stand is attached to the crank case... it breaks and it's a major...
    Quote Originally Posted by Jane Omorogbe from UK MSN on the KTM990SM
    It's barking mad and if it doesn't turn you into a complete loon within half an hour of cocking a leg over the lofty 875mm seat height, I'll eat my Arai.

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gremlin View Post
    I never tie down to the stand as often the stand isn't designed to take that load (similar reason BMW says don't sit on the bike with it on side stand for my GSA). In same cases like MV, the side stand is attached to the crank case... it breaks and it's a major...
    +1

    I've heard of a sidestand breaking once along with someones beloved bike.

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by eldog View Post
    road bike 250 kg
    I know that my trials bike is 'just under' 250kg, but the tying down principle still applies.

    As other have stated, securing the front wheel is key.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Racing Dave View Post
    I know that my trials bike is 'just under' 250kg, but the tying down principle still applies.

    As other have stated, securing the front wheel is key.

    This is similar to my set up. Blocks on a plank to stop the bottom of the fron wheel bouncing sideways. I loop my strops over the lower triple clamp inside the fork leg (sports bike). I find this to be an excellent way to secure the front. Of course it totally depends on the type of trailer and where the tie down points are on said trailer.
    Do us all a favour, by bringing yourself up to speed, before pulling onto the motorway.

  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Racing Dave View Post
    I know that my trials bike is 'just under' 250kg, but the tying down principle still applies.

    As other have stated, securing the front wheel is key.
    Just a couple of notes (not that you don't have experience). I've seen hooks unhook from the trailer, say, when the trailer goes over a bump. The bike moves, one strap loosens which allows it to unhook, and over your bike goes. For similar reasons I also go around fully once (handlebar, fork leg etc) before strapping.
    Quote Originally Posted by Jane Omorogbe from UK MSN on the KTM990SM
    It's barking mad and if it doesn't turn you into a complete loon within half an hour of cocking a leg over the lofty 875mm seat height, I'll eat my Arai.

  13. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Racing Dave View Post
    I know that my trials bike is 'just under' 250kg, but the tying down principle still applies.
    Nice machine mate, have been keeping an eye out for something similar...
    Go soothingly on the grease mud, as there lurks the skid demon

  14. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gremlin View Post
    I've seen hooks unhook from the trailer, say, when the trailer goes over a bump.
    Another vote for The Rope option then!
    TOP QUOTE: “The problem with socialism is that sooner or later you run out of other people’s money.”

  15. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Racing Dave View Post
    I know that my trials bike is 'just under' 250kg, but the tying down principle still applies.

    As other have stated, securing the front wheel is key.
    Just under


    trailer will be cleaned by me, as I am hiring it.
    retained front wheel is the go.

    manxkiwi, I will try this as it seems like the best way, but I don't know until I get the trailer and see what I can do.
    trailer is being supplied with some ramps so that will be another experiment, not videoing that one.

    Gremlin, yes I have seen those smaller tie downs without the second closed clasp (I use the 2.5tonne ones at work regularily) come loose if just hooked onto a rail. Prefer looping around rail and onto itself or wrapped again and back to itself just in case the suspension moves with bumps etc.

    will try and stand bike up, that's why I asked about paddock stand
    so may get a overcentre clamp that I can put on the trailer, without any holes etc. it's a rental.

    thanks for the advice....

    READ AND UDESTAND

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