I'm building one

**F5 Dave** · 27th November 2011, 19:34

Originally Posted by Drew

Which I set at .06mm incase you're wondering...and incase my maths was wrong in converting .014in into metric. Should be .055mm but I don't have a feeler gauge in that size.
. . .

0.055?! was that a typo? that is no gap at all.

btw google will do all your conversions if you ask it. 0.36mm for .014"

**blackdog** · 27th November 2011, 19:44

Originally Posted by F5 Dave

0.055?! was that a typo? that is no gap at all.

btw google will do all your conversions if you ask it. 0.36mm for .014"

Just put a micrometer on a hair from my beard, got a touch over 0.01. I think you're probably right that a points gap should be more than 5 hairs breadth.

**Madness** · 27th November 2011, 20:10

25.4(mm = 1") X 0.014 = 0.3556 (0.36mm as Dave said). It's not rocket science.

**jasonu** · 27th November 2011, 20:50

Originally Posted by Drew

Might have the points gap too small,

.

Hey Grandad, what are points and this gap you speak of???

**Clivoris** · 27th November 2011, 20:55

Originally Posted by jasonu

Hey Grandad, what are points and this gap you speak of???

They're in the cupboard next to the record player.

**husaberg** · 27th November 2011, 22:10

Originally Posted by jasonu

Hey Grandad, what are points and this gap you speak of???

The manual says as you were corrected to.
14 thou or .35mm it also says not to bother to adjust if it is 12-16 thou or .3-.4mm

Didn't the old buggers used to use rollie papers or something. Do they even sell points files now.

out of interest if you decide to ditch the flywheel and go to total loss remember to modify the cam for better results.
Also gift the flywheel to Te Papa, The kids would get a kick from seeing ignition systems pre CDI.

**Drew** · 28th November 2011, 05:30

Ok, that's good news. I did think I ended up with a decimal point in the wrong place, but must have been totally fuckin off with how I worked it out. Will set the points again, and then I can fiddle with the jetting.

I can't be arsed removing the fly wheel, charging batteries is something I'm likely to forget a lot.

**F5 Dave** · 28th November 2011, 08:11

yeah total loss is a drag & I've seen a lot of CB125 bucketeers ruin their meetings with a failing battery.

**koba** · 28th November 2011, 08:39

I was really tempted by the superflash competition batteries they have at TSS.
The thing must weigh about 200g.

They use them in MX and stuff, even to crank over a starter with a total loss system!

Still, I know it will go the same way... " Fuck, I'm sure I charged it..."

**Moooools** · 28th November 2011, 09:09

We just bought 3 batteries so we always have a spare should we suspect one is faulty.
$30 each and 300g. Charge in 1 hour.

**F5 Dave** · 28th November 2011, 09:48

then tie a barking dog to your gear bag to remind you to take them off the charger & throw then in the van.

**Drew** · 3rd December 2011, 13:26

Progress update.

Got the points gap right today, and it ran heaps better. Opened up the muffler on the pipe, and played with jetting.

Got it running best so far by a long way, but when onboard and loaded up, just where you'd expect it to come on real strong, it peters out.

Had to jet it down way too far considering the pipe and carb that's on it, to achieve the level that it's at. So this is kinda indicative that it's still not sparking cleanly at higher revs.

Next thing is gonna be a new condenser on the ignition circuit to eliminate the only thing that could still be wrong in said circuit. I'm also dubious of the reed block, the stoppers that make the reeds progressive were all different shapes when I got it, and although I straightened them to a more uniform curve, who knows how closely they resemble what they looked like from the factory.

From there if it still aint right, it's a sheet of 1mm steel plate, a book, a welder, and a whole lot of time building an expansion chamber that is tuned for the flow and combustion chamber of this engine.