How to improve headlight output?

**DrunkenMistake** · 28th November 2011, 21:35

Originally Posted by hayd3n

i wouldent get a factory hornet headlight they are shit
id know
im concidering a glass lens as the ploycarbonate ones are crap and limit my output

Yeah,
mines a fucked up set up when you look at it,
its like riding with a bloody candle..

**nzspokes** · 28th November 2011, 21:50

Originally Posted by pete376403

Wire the lights with a big fat wire direct from the battery, using relays to do the switching. Solder the connectors. Proper earths back to the frame. It's not hard, you just have to think about it a bit.

Voltage drop through the standard weedy little wires and handlebar switch blades is taking energy away from the lights

So 2 relays, one for dip and 1 for main? What amp relays would I need?

**Blackbird** · 29th November 2011, 09:59

Try Osram Nightbreaker bulbs as your first step - hassle free and inexpensive. Same wattage, better light output. I fitted them to the Street Triple and the improvement was huge. http://www.osram.com/osram_com/Consu...LUS/index.html. Bought mine from Autobulbs direct in the UK http://www.autobulbsdirect.co.uk/H7-...-NEW-pair.html but they might be available in NZ

**vifferman** · 29th November 2011, 13:26

In both the VF500 and VTR1000 I owned, I left the standard headlight shell in, but uprated the bulb (55/80W) and wires, and used relays. it worked brilliantly well, as both had good reflector shapes. It's important though that the connectors are kept clean and are a tight fit, as any corrosion in the connections leads to much resistance and heat.

**Spearfish** · 29th November 2011, 13:50

Originally Posted by pete376403

Wire the lights with a big fat wire direct from the battery, using relays to do the switching. Solder the connectors. Proper earths back to the frame. It's not hard, you just have to think about it a bit.

Voltage drop through the standard weedy little wires and handlebar switch blades is taking energy away from the lights

+1 and a

Plus you can gain some watts at the front by changing the rear tail to leds.

Big fat wires in short runs makes a difference to a 6v candle...

So what's this 12v thing I,ve been hearing about?

**nzspokes** · 29th November 2011, 16:42

So as suggested on the weekend I will be rewiring the headlight direct from the battery and using relays to switch the light on. Then I hope to run a more powerfull bulb.

**Subike** · 29th November 2011, 18:39

I fitted twin 75mm aftermarket lights to my XS1100 Yamaha,
Have a look at my profile and access the pic album to see what the "look"" is like.
The second pic shows the twin light set up on one bike
beside the std headlight set up on the same model bike
I used the bum bag under the lights to hold the wiring.
This whole set up including the bullet indicators was done for under $300.
All items were available in NZ via trade me, 3 years ago,
http://www.google.co.nz/search?q=str...w=1366&bih=685
Prices might have increased since then.
I have had no worries or questions lof legality for WOF checks
Time taken to fit and wire up, 3 hrs. Im not a sparky
It was a bolt on conversion that utilized the origination mounting ears from the factory square single lamp.
The lights run 65/80w bulbs .
I have wire them up via two 30amp relays and fed the relays directly from the battery.
Relays and terminals were Hella from a local auto electrician retail shop
I crimped all the terminals, as soldering tends to break with vibration over time on vehicles.
Properly crimped joints are what the factory wires use , not soldered.
To elevate the current drain on the alternator, I only run one low beam light, left side.
I find this is more than enough for night riding around town,
On the open road, the twin 80w high beam lights give more than enough definition when riding at legal speeds.

**MarkW** · 29th November 2011, 19:04

The bike in question is a 1986 CBX250.

It is unlikely that the alternator output will be adequate to run 2 80 watt highbeams, a tailight, instrument lights, the coils, plus a pair of indicators whilst braking for an upcoming corner on the open road.

The standard wiring is 25 years old and was adequate when new. Time, which means corrosion and the odd loose connection will mean that what was adequate 25 years ago may well be struggling now.

So question 1 - what is the actual output capability of your charging system?

Having found this out you shouldn't exceed this output by too much or the battery will keep going flat.

Concentrate on getting efficiencies in output rather than just burning more watts.

So - standard wiring from 1986 has the wiring to the headlight running from a power source (battery)into the headlight on/off switch first, then into the high low switch to be sent to the right filament before earthing back to the battery.

All wiring plugs need to be corrosion free AND so do the faces (contacts) on the switches. After 25 years of use the switches are not likely to be that flash.

Re wiring the existing headlight using a pair of relays (one for high beam and one for low beam) won't be hard or expensive - keep the power feed lines as short as possible.

Changing the lens to a more effective motorcycle unit may then help as well - better using the existing output.

But the bike is 25 years old and a 250 as well - lighting systems for bikes of that age and size were never super flash - as the bike was not intended to be used as a long distance high speed night tourer.

So, if you don't want to spend a fortune - keep what ever you do simple and straightforward - and you may have to accept that being able to read a book 70 metres from your motorcycle may not be achievable. And at 100kph 75 metres is the minimum safe distance to stop, including reaction time.

MarkW

**Subike** · 29th November 2011, 19:15

Originally Posted by MarkW

The bike in question is a 1986 CBX250.

It is unlikely that the alternator output will be adequate to run 2 80 watt highbeams, a tailight, instrument lights, the coils, plus a pair of indicators whilst braking for an upcoming corner on the open road.

The standard wiring is 25 years old and was adequate when new. Time, which means corrosion and the odd loose connection will mean that what was adequate 25 years ago may well be struggling now.

So question 1 - what is the actual output capability of your charging system?

Having found this out you shouldn't exceed this output by too much or the battery will keep going flat.

Concentrate on getting efficiencies in output rather than just burning more watts.

So - standard wiring from 1986 has the wiring to the headlight running from a power source (battery)into the headlight on/off switch first, then into the high low switch to be sent to the right filament before earthing back to the battery.

All wiring plugs need to be corrosion free AND so do the faces (contacts) on the switches. After 25 years of use the switches are not likely to be that flash.

Re wiring the existing headlight using a pair of relays (one for high beam and one for low beam) won't be hard or expensive - keep the power feed lines as short as possible.

Changing the lens to a more effective motorcycle unit may then help as well - better using the existing output.

But the bike is 25 years old and a 250 as well - lighting systems for bikes of that age and size were never super flash - as the bike was not intended to be used as a long distance high speed night tourer.

So, if you don't want to spend a fortune - keep what ever you do simple and straightforward - and you may have to accept that being able to read a book 70 metres from your motorcycle may not be achievable. And at 100kph 75 metres is the minimum safe distance to stop, including reaction time.

MarkW

You make some very good points Mark.
All valid and really worth consideration.
I agree the prognosis of all the terminals and block connections being aged, dirty, electrolysis setting in etc.
I think of that very issue when ever rebuilding or customizing a ride, I always replace all connections with new unit, and dismantle switches for proper cleaning. Quite amazing what sort of crud can get in there over the years.
I also agree with you on the point of replacing the headlight unit with a new one, reflectors tarnish over time,
No matter how strong the bulb is, it just cannot throw the light,
A new reflector and or lens may be all that is needed in most situations, yet often overlooked.

**sugilite:Me** · 29th November 2011, 20:06

I know there is a HID conversion kit available for my old clunker, maybe there is for your bike as well?

**nzspokes** · 29th November 2011, 20:12

Originally Posted by MarkW

The bike in question is a 1986 CBX250.

It is unlikely that the alternator output will be adequate to run 2 80 watt highbeams, a tailight, instrument lights, the coils, plus a pair of indicators whilst braking for an upcoming corner on the open road.

The standard wiring is 25 years old and was adequate when new. Time, which means corrosion and the odd loose connection will mean that what was adequate 25 years ago may well be struggling now.

So question 1 - what is the actual output capability of your charging system?

Having found this out you shouldn't exceed this output by too much or the battery will keep going flat.

Concentrate on getting efficiencies in output rather than just burning more watts.

So - standard wiring from 1986 has the wiring to the headlight running from a power source (battery)into the headlight on/off switch first, then into the high low switch to be sent to the right filament before earthing back to the battery.

All wiring plugs need to be corrosion free AND so do the faces (contacts) on the switches. After 25 years of use the switches are not likely to be that flash.

Re wiring the existing headlight using a pair of relays (one for high beam and one for low beam) won't be hard or expensive - keep the power feed lines as short as possible.

Changing the lens to a more effective motorcycle unit may then help as well - better using the existing output.

But the bike is 25 years old and a 250 as well - lighting systems for bikes of that age and size were never super flash - as the bike was not intended to be used as a long distance high speed night tourer.

So, if you don't want to spend a fortune - keep what ever you do simple and straightforward - and you may have to accept that being able to read a book 70 metres from your motorcycle may not be achievable. And at 100kph 75 metres is the minimum safe distance to stop, including reaction time.

MarkW

Good points. I had an issue when I first got the bike with the electrics that turned out to be the pulse generator. So every connection in the system has been cleaned. Im not expecting a mini Gremlin machine just to be able to see better. The relay idea is a good cheap option and will be most probably the best outcome.

But dont forget the mighty CBX250rs is a rocket ship.........

**swbarnett** · 29th November 2011, 20:39

I dare say you've got the same issue I had on my previous bike - CBX550 of the same year as your 250. I had to slow right down in the twisties at night as I couldn't see where the corner went. All I did was replace the standard bulb with a +50 from Repco. About $20 or so from memory. Still not the brightest but certainly solved the corner visibility issue.

I've done the same with my dual headlight Katana and, while they might not be as bright as Gremlin's GS (that thing would rival a military search light!), they've certainly added a fair distance more visibility.

**ynot slow** · 29th November 2011, 21:24

Any auto sparky will have H4 PLUS 80 BULBS around $40 each,they don't fry the wiring and are what I'd try first,I put H7 PLUS 90 in my bandit worked ok on both full and dip.