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Thread: Shafty's USA Ride Report, Route 66 and beyond - caution long, with pix

  1. #16
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    30th March 2004 - 21:29
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    Thursday
    And we are in the swing of things packing wise, so before you knew it we were on the freeway exiting to Napa Valley. Pretty chilly it was too – just 57F which was one of the first times we’ve felt cold in the USA.

    It’s funny but I still can’t get my head around the freeway thing – don’t get me wrong, it work’s great, it’s just that if you exit a motorway in NZ, you are immediately on a 2 lane road driving past a dairy. In the US, you exit on to another freeway, on to another.

    Although the Napa and Sonoma valleys are both beautiful, attractive wine valleys, freeways are always close by.

    We drove past “The Mighty Quinn” and in to Napa Village, found a huge café in an old style shopping centre and enjoyed breakfast. Then off to Sonoma after a quick scoot around Napa.

    (A friendly localconfirmed my recollection that "Slow-noma"is less commercial and more real than Napa)

    Sonoma is a beautifully quaint town with a lovely tree lined town square with people picnicking on the grass and gleaming restored buildings lining the outer rim. We were keen to stay at one of the nice hotels on the square but after checking tariffs and even working outwards from there hotels were still in the $250-$350 bracket.

    So we called a Motel in Santa Rosa which had an advert in one of the many free tourist magazines and copped a great deal, nice room, wifi pool breakfast etc (std deal here) for around $63 + tax. Funnily enough if you rang and booked it would cost heaps more – one couple without the coupon paid over $100, but if you “walked in” with the coupon, Bingo!

    Too late by now for a wine tour, which started much earlier than we realised - so we planned a nice dinner with what we had saved, then Jude hit the pool, while I toured some bike shops, as ya do.

    Later we caught a cab to “Old Santa Rosa” for some pre dinner drinks at a corner tavern, then a nice dinner in an ivy covered Syrah Restaurant across the road, with some nice local wines.

    Friday
    And up early was Pete, raising the windscreen on the ST, partook of the free brekky by the pool, and once again riding in mid 50’s temps we rode past Lake Tahoe over some bridges and then thru mountain passes amongst a busy flowing stream of traffic of all sizes and shapes, flowing nicely at US freeway speeds, namely 80 mph min, - we even followed a Highway Patrol car for 10 miles at 85!

    It was funny watching the Cop enter the freeway, everyone slowly reducing their speed discreetly, Moi included, then the Patrol Car worked its way to the fast lane and booted it, by which time everyone was back at their original speed again. Loving the US Police by now.

    The scenery was top rate, rocky mountains, with clean rivers gushing along the road side, trees everywhere.

    We were crunching miles today – part of a 2 day plan to carve up Nevada. Soon enough we were approaching the desert looking city of Reno with its huge Casino Billboards and buildings “99c domestic beers “”RV and Truck Parking “etc etc Hmmm about those beers….

    After achieving the required miles before our first stop (100 miles +) we had breakfast at Jakes Restaurant and Casino in Fernley. Its incredible how many people are sitting in front of slot machines at this time of day – surely not for recreation? Anyway, gassed up here and hit the road again – through some amazing desert.

    Once again our timing with Highway Patrols/Sherriffs was impeccable, arriving in small towns twice, at a nice respectable speed having just decelerated from a different league, as the Patrol is heading outta town toward us.

    Soon enough we’d chomped 380 miles (miles are a bit longer than kilometres remember) to Hawthorne a smallish desert town just past an amazing Lake, Lake Walker.

    There is a humungous US Military Facility on the outskirts of town, with untold super large buildings. An ammunition plant amongst them, Marine training facilities etc. The local paper showed a mockup building the Army allegedly built as a replica of Bin Ladens place before the successful raid in Pakistan recently. (Well done Boys)

    There was an annual Baja off roader (Think VW Buggies and Polaris type side by sides) convention which looked fun – and would be good for the small town obviously struggling with the economy showing its signs thru many closed shops and run down Motels.

    We chose a large motel called America’s Best, in gaudy yellow and teal colours owned by an Indian Family, which turned out to be brilliant. ($83 + tax but after a long day in the saddle, we were grateful) .After freshening up, I headed off to wash the bike. Dinner was Chilly at Maggies on Main Street, YUM.

    Saturday 13 Aug and a beautiful sunrise welcomed us to the road thru the desert – stage 2 of mile munching today, so breakfast was planned for 103 miles away in Tanoopa, which came around soon enough. Desert riding with u l t r a long straights – the type you see on LP covers – so speeds of 80-90 mph are the norm.

    Tanoopa has a rugged exterior suggesting mining as a history, but with Motels and McDonalds and of course a Casino or 2 which is where we stopped for Oatmeal and coffee after gassing up.

    Had a quick chat with a Harley Rider from Utah while gassing up, - nice Guy, he was most impressed with the ST’s gas capacity – as I have been for years. No use putting it off, so saddled up and into the distance we headed.

    We would just exit one 30 or 40 mile straight, around a bend or over the brow of a hill and there was a longer one. It was quite exciting when I had to make a right hand turn 50 miles later to head toward Rachel, home of the Alie-Inn (Alien Inn) near where “Area 51 “of Alien fame is.

    The sign said “No gas for 111 miles “- no sweat to the Pan Euro but some Riders would be doing frantic math, - the sign was also quite a bit out of town already.

    Rachel came along, and time for some water and a loo break. A bunch of trailer homes house the odd ball locals who choose (?) to live in the desert with nothing around, or can’t afford to leave, as well as some trailer homes for nightly rent. There is a bar/diner with some amusing signs and souvenirs. Quirky.

    As Willie Nelson would say “On the Road again “and 1 minute after taking my jacket off, rain drops start so pull over put it back on and it stops, whatever. A re run of the mornings long straights, very little traffic, until we reach Caliente a mandatory stop for benzene.

    There was a Sherriff with all his Patrol Cars lights ablaze on the forecourt bailing up a Roger Bruce look a like, poor sod, but a good decoy once again, so gassed and gone we were, just 80 MILES to go til we’ve done our 400 for the day.

    After dodging some green hay bales which hit the road off a Kenworth, we reached Wendy’s in Cedar City with the Tripmeter reading exactly 400.0 miles from departure. Phew. Another good effort all round and only 2pm, with the mercury rising.

    Where we popped in to Cedar City courtesy of the Gps Lady, food and motel options were plentiful, so we chose America’s Best Value Inn for just $51 + tax with free blah blah. Showered, e-mailed, then in to the Jacuzzi outside, nice.

    We had a big walk before a Dennys dinner then beers in the room. Another fab day.

    Sunday 14th

    ….and a leisurely start to the day especially losing an hour in Utah. Navigating out of town was easy and 20 minutes later we were in Zion Park’s Kolob Canyon. We bought an annual Nat Park Pass for $80, and used it right away to ride the 5 mile roadway at this end of the park - $24 saved.

    Kolob was beautiful, photo opportunities abound, and a Park Ranger, Rendall was on hand to answer any questions. A very cool place.

    Pressing on we headed toward Zion Park proper, even approaching the area was spectacular with towering cliffs of differing colours, red and yellow hues dotted with green trees, - people actually enjoy these views from their homes – wow.

    Getting closer and some pretty period buildings and villages competed for our – and other Tourist’s attention.

    Plenty of gift shopping, activities and dining options near the entrance to the park and we chose the allure of a pretty courtyard café which lived up to its promise. We also fed the bike some fuel then pootled the 100 metres, oops, yards sorry, to the queue to enter the park. Using our NatPark to save another $25 we were then waved over by a an armed Park Ranger for a “spot check “uh oh............. you may remember that my International License was laundered, and not lookin pretty......

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    "If you haven't grown up by the time you turn 50, you don't have to!"

  2. #17
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    "If you haven't grown up by the time you turn 50, you don't have to!"

  3. #18
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    A ranger dude? Hell, you should have found a ranger chick. Cute they were, but I was always in a queue fumbling with all the paperwork.

    Also don't believe you require an International Licence, or at least, some in my group didn't have them... didn't seem to present a problem, but I organised one anyway.
    Quote Originally Posted by Jane Omorogbe from UK MSN on the KTM990SM
    It's barking mad and if it doesn't turn you into a complete loon within half an hour of cocking a leg over the lofty 875mm seat height, I'll eat my Arai.

  4. #19
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    Great write up. $7 parking at the Hoover Dam? It was free when we were there! I assume the new bridge is in place and you don't ride down and over the top of the dam, any more?
    “- He felt that his whole life was some kind of dream and he sometimes wondered whose it was and whether they were enjoying it.”

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by SPman View Post
    Great write up. $7 parking at the Hoover Dam? It was free when we were there! I assume the new bridge is in place and you don't ride down and over the top of the dam, any more?
    Not as the main road... no. You can still, if you want to, as I did.

    Some pics in this album for ya: http://s210.photobucket.com/albums/b...1%20USA%20D38/
    Quote Originally Posted by Jane Omorogbe from UK MSN on the KTM990SM
    It's barking mad and if it doesn't turn you into a complete loon within half an hour of cocking a leg over the lofty 875mm seat height, I'll eat my Arai.

  6. #21
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    30th March 2004 - 21:29
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    Turned out to be a brief survey, so moments later we were enjoying the gobsmacking views of Zion.
    Phew!
    We rode for miles on excellent winding roads amongst a parade of other considerate visitors winding up and down amongst the most amazing rock formations and cliffs of all colours and shapes, - it truly was an assault on the senses, our eyes were like satellite dishes.

    We were impressed with the Grand Canyon and didn’t expect it to be so upstaged as Zion just did, WOW!

    Exiting the far end of the park, we stopped for water and restrooms, before continuing under uncertain skies having just copped a 4 minute shower. My T shirt dried in about the same time, but when setting off again it started to settle in soon after arriving at the beginning of the Bryce Canyon area.

    With lightening and thunder as encouragement, we booked into a “rustic “ Bryce Canyon Resort to shelter. Turns out it should have been called Last Resort – the restaurant was unexpectedly closed, and the place was pretty run down, but hey.

    Bryce Canyon
    Wed 19th
    We had a brill day riding through Escalente – more amazing scenery and nice bends, plenty of nice riding hills and drops before arriving at Torrey, around 11am.

    We had been recommended a nice restaurant here called Diablo Café – with indoor/outdoor dining looking up to the beautiful red hills, so were keen to sample it’s delights, and sample them we did. Although early for lunch (it was our breakfast as well) they made us supremely welcome and while we cooled down and enjoyed coffee and water and took photo’s they set up around us before we ordered from their yummy menu.

    I ordered a turkey sandwich and Jude had a salad, both excellent. We decided we were going to skip desert, but Amber brought us a basket tray showing most of the offerings and talked us thru them – we couldn’t resist so shared a Diablo delight. All their pastries cakes – even ice cream are made in house – and it tells. Highly recommended. After Jude bought a Diablo Tee Shirt we were heading in to the sun and the distance……..

    More spectacular countryside surrounded us as we rode thru canyons, along ridgelines, and twisted down hills to do it all over again. We did take the time to stop at one of the “Over Looks “to view the Colorado River twisting between the harsh rock land. We also over looked a tiny settlement on the other side and between us lay a flooded town of many many years ago, as described by the always informative Tourist Plaques.

    We were parched by now, but the water we had was warm, so we pushed on to the small junction town of Blanding to check in to a delightful, cheap motel near the only traffic lights. There were some Harley Boys in the unit next door – good blokes our age on their annual Boysie week away – heading home to Missouri from Sturgis the long way.

    After a 2 mile walk looking for cool refreshments, I learned that it was a dry town – DISBELIEF! They allow you to ride a big bike without a shirt or helmet, but no, you can’t have a beer, go figure.

    The Harley Boys directed me to a gas station 4 miles away, just over the city limits where they sold as much beer as gas, so before you knew it, we were chatting with the HOG Boys, beer in hand.
    Some more bikes cruised in later, BMW GS1200, another Harley and a couple of Jap bikes. Twas a nice night to relax and swap tales in the evening warmth.

    Thursday 20th
    We were up and off surprisingly early, about 7.15 ish – we wanted to make it to Mesa Verde National Park early so as not to miss out on entry tickets (we needn’t have worried) – but it’s always nice to be on the road early. The Harley Boys hadn’t surfaced, so I gave them an airhorn wakeup call as we pulled out – only good manners I thought.

    We soon caught up with a 4 trucks piggy backing which had passed earlier, and Jude took a cool photo of it. This is where 3 new trucks are piggy backed behind another new truck, that is, stacked on an angle, so as to deliver them – they look amazing.

    Stopping quite early at Cortez, we were looking for a breakfast venue and soon found all the pickups outside a small café the locals used – a dead giveaway to a cheap and cheerful eatery complete with locals, cowboys and ranchers.

    Next stop was Mesa Verde – this is where the ancient cliff dwellings are, I saw it years ago and was enchanted and Jude was keen to see it so here we were.

    Using our NatPass Pass again (ka ching) we rode about 15 miles from the park entrance to the Visitors Centre with its viewing deck overlooking the beaut park. We met some cool young Guys in the car park who were enjoying a riding vacation also, (Wee Strom and Versys) and gave them some NZ stickers for their tool boxes/panniers.

    Sussing out where to go, we chose a self guided tour to save time, and rode another 5 miles to Bruce House, where we wondered down to the dwellings along perfectly maintained and signposted paths.

    It sure is impressive and access is great. Rangers are always at hand to answer questions, take pics for you and generally assist. The Americans have a fantastic National Treasure in their Nat Parks – they are absolutely H U G E and amazingly maintained.

    Next stop was Four Corners – the only place in the States where 4 states join their boundaries at one spot. New Mexico, Colorado, Utah and Arizona. Turned out to be a HOT 40 miles each way thru road works, then having to pay $3 each to enter as it was run by an Indian Reservation, with plenty of Indian only arts and crafts sales.

    Cold drinks and ice cones (sugar flavoured shaved ice in a polystyrene cup) were for sale at tourist prices, and a queue of Tourists were waiting for the opportunity for a pic on the corner plaque. Took a great pic of Jude and we were off, on a mission, to Durango.

    So it was about 2pm when we made Durango, a smaller town than I thought, but busy as and with all the amenities you would want and more. Accommodation seemed quite expensive here, so after trying a few places, settled on an Econo Lodge at around $100 + tax, freshened up and strolled a few blocks to the recommended Durango Brewery Bar.

    And it was two dollar night, bugger! We enjoyed a platter and a few cheap pints while gleaning advice for the next day’s ride from friendly locals – perfect. (And the stroll home was downhill)

    Friday 21st
    After a pleasant inhouse breakfast, we turned right out of the Econo Lodge and before we knew it, we were on the main road to Silverton. Just under half a tank of gas onboard – should be OK – and then we started soaking up the amazing scenery.

    This is the road known as the Million Dollar Highway. Wikipedia will tell you the reason for this relates to 2 competing folk tales. One being the cost per mile of construction. The other, as verified by Ken in the Durango Brewery Bar the previous night, was the discovery of a Mother of all Mother Lodes of coal and some gold discovered while excavating for the road.

    The tale goes that the Crew were sworn to secrecy about its existence and it was covered over to maintain progress on the highway.

    Whatever way you look at it, this road IS GOLD – alpine views, riding through beautiful pine forests, stunning blue skies, climbing up and around the hills, past major unguarded drop off’s, before dropping down in to Silverton.

    And not before time too, as the ST’s gas gauge/computer had gone from the “Average MPG” read-out, to the “You have this far to go Buddy” read-out thru to the “UH UH, it’s all up to you Bucko” read-out. So with 320 miles out of that tank, I was very happy to reach the summit, knowing that if need be, we could free wheel down in to Silverton.

    What a pretty wee town this is, looking all spruce in the main street, all sorts of novelty vehicles along the way, a roofless Range Rover, a classic pink sign written Delivery Van, a jacked up (4 X 4 ?) New York Taxi, and a ½ track truck. Think Alpine Martinborough(NZ) .

    We settled in to the front deck of the General Store for coffee, topped up our mobile phone and read the paper. Hey I even bought a nice US flag to fly back home. People watching was good too, with many stopping to chat having seen the “Kiwi’s on Tour” stickers on the Pan Euro. I love seeing the US flag flying so often here and remember last time I visited, resolving to get a flag up at home. This time I will.

    We geared up and started heading further towards Ouray. We soon passed a bunch of Harley Riders doing some dodgy U turns in front of us – they obviously over shot the Silverton turn off.

    Up the sweeping curves of the hill, once again some scary drop offs without Armco gave me the heebie geebies and had me hugging the centreline! Some impressive switchbacks took us down again then more climbing. All through superb alpine scenery – twas like riding thru a chocolate box scene. Riding doesn’t get any better than this.

    Ouray is another pretty town we would have been VERY tempted to stay in, Jude and I both spying an inviting outdoor deck area of a local bar - but CO Springs beckoned, so onwards and upwards…..

    Thru some high altitude construction zones, then we turned off, as recommended in the bar the previous night, to The Black Canyon National Park. Free again for us with the NatPark Pass, we took the recommended 5 or so mile ride down to the bottom of the canyon, 3 of which were at a 16% incline (decline?). A beautiful river and picturesque weir in the peaceful valley, which was deserted except for a lone fly fisherman and some picnickers.

    Back on the road and a pleasant ride in to Salida, the destination for the night. We chose the Colorado Inn and Suites which was very comfortable. It eventually turned out that their wifi wouldn’t work so they gave a 30% discount on what we had paid already, so that was very fair, and the rooms were comfy and well equipped.

    A Texan Couple in the next door unit got to talking to us, - they ride also, and invited us to join them for dinner in Old Salida Town, a great restaurant they had picked out earlier, and a pleasant evening was had by all. That was very friendly of them, real nice Folks – and typical of Americans we have met so far. (And Jude’s 1st ride in a Cadillac)
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    "If you haven't grown up by the time you turn 50, you don't have to!"

  7. #22
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    More pix.....
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    "If you haven't grown up by the time you turn 50, you don't have to!"

  8. #23
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    is it difficult to adjust to riding on the right....?

  9. #24
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    Awesome read Shafty, next installment plz
    Have to Karma ... Justice catches up eventually !!

  10. #25
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    Great reading.

  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by BMWST? View Post
    is it difficult to adjust to riding on the right....?
    Thanks for the feedback Guys..............

    BMWST:Although we hit America running, after 2 years in the Middle East (also a LHD Country), we obviously had to adapt when we arrived there.

    No big deal, - really. As long as you are 'aware ' of the need for caution, as you clearly are having asked the question, you''ll be fine.

    I tied a bright ribbon on the RHS handlebar of my Mate's rental Goldwing - he was a little apprehensive (I'll follow you around the States Pete LOL) - just in case, but he was fine also.

    Traffic is fantastic there compared to here, relaxed and much of it is 2-5 lanes each way anyway, so seperate directional lanes.

    I loved one of their road signs, would like to see some here : DRIVE FRIENDLY

    Shafty
    "If you haven't grown up by the time you turn 50, you don't have to!"

  12. #27
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    How much did your entire trip cost you if you dont mind me asking?
    Looks like you had a fantastic time, and im a little jello! haha

  13. #28
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    I enjoyed that ride Mr.
    Cheers for sharing that !
    A girlfriend once asked " Why is it you seem to prefer to race, than spend time with me ?"
    The answer was simple ! "I'll prolly get bored with racing too, once i've nailed it !"

    Bowls can wait !

  14. #29
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    Great write-up and photos shafty - made me homesick for the USA (If you know what I mean!)

    A great place eh - and so BIIIGG!
    Winding up drongos, foil hat wearers and over sensitive KBers for over 14,000 posts...........
    " Life is not a rehearsal, it's as happy or miserable as you want to make it"

  15. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by shafty View Post
    Thanks for the feedback Guys..............

    BMWST:Although we hit America running, after 2 years in the Middle East (also a LHD Country), we obviously had to adapt when we arrived there.

    No big deal, - really. As long as you are 'aware ' of the need for caution, as you clearly are having asked the question, you''ll be fine.

    I tied a bright ribbon on the RHS handlebar of my Mate's rental Goldwing - he was a little apprehensive (I'll follow you around the States Pete LOL) - just in case, but he was fine also.

    Traffic is fantastic there compared to here, relaxed and much of it is 2-5 lanes each way anyway, so seperate directional lanes.

    I loved one of their road signs, would like to see some here : DRIVE FRIENDLY

    Shafty
    We never had any issues re drive on right while there - and as you said, the traffic is fantastic, a shit-load of Kiwi road-users could learn from the Yanks driving manners.
    Winding up drongos, foil hat wearers and over sensitive KBers for over 14,000 posts...........
    " Life is not a rehearsal, it's as happy or miserable as you want to make it"

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