Shafty's USA Ride Report, Route 66 and beyond - caution long, with pix

[Gremlin]

is it difficult to adjust to riding on the right....?

I was quite worried, as I had never driven/ridden on the right at all. I spent the first couple of days on the weekend (before we collected our bikes) deliberately walking on the right side of paths, and trying to overcome my tendency to dive left when walking towards someone. Sounds obsessive, but also walked around town etc.

The biggest issue was gas stations and carparks with no other vehicles around, so I tended left a few times. The roads had plenty of vehicles on them, so you just followed whatever everyone else was doing. Felt quite natural actually.

[shafty]

Thurs 18th

Today commemorates us being 1 month here, and over 6000 miles so far. A short scoot thru to Colorado Springs, and despite more road works we arrived around 10.30, straight to the impressive Honda/Yamaha/Triumph shop where I had lined up an oil, filter and brake pad change.

While waiting we admired the fabulous selection of new and used Gold Wings and a myriad of other very cool bikes – it was like a Candy Store to us, and probably the biggest bike store so far (non Harley anyway) Even the accessories area blew us away.

Chatted with Salesman Steve whose personal ride is also an ST1300. Around an hour later and the bike was good to go, so we booked in to a nearby Econo Lodge to catch some sun, do laundry and relax before venturing down town for some dinner in a sidewalk pub, and more people watching.

Friday 19th
…………and a pretty average day today with very average scenery and long straights. We breakfasted at Village Inn at La Junta after following detours around the town of Rocky Ford which was having it’s County Fair.

Only stopping for gas until we reached Garden City where we cooled ourselves in McDonalds – for AC, wifi, Restrooms and cold drinks. Having gradually reached 104F, we were hot hot hot.

Never mind, just 50 miles or so to Dodge City and it was only around 2pm – let’s do it.

As we left town we continued to smell the feed pad cattle rearing we have seen so extensively – poor cows, nothing like the lush NZ grassy paddocks. Stock was housed in flat dirt pens obviously being grain fed as each “farm “had a huge silo complex near the pens.

The problem turned out to be major Road Works between here and there, and here in the US, construction zones aren’t just 200 metres (yards) they are 10 or 20 miles in some cases, as was this one. So lots of waiting in line for the Go Slow sign in a series of hold ups, not really knowing what we were waiting for. Fortunately we were out of the sun most of the time.

Then, when we did get the free run into Dodge, massive cross winds were whipping dirt – as well as us – across the road. This was as bad a wind as I’ve ridden in, so it was change down a gear for torque and position ourselves close to the right hand side of the centreline of the road, and as oncoming traffic approached, using brakes as well as power to brace the bike steady – this was a major workout.

7 or 8 miles later we were safe, as the storm continued to stir, we quickly booked in to the Travel Lodge for just $59.00 + tax for an excellent room. Phew.

We were toasting each other on surviving the storm, and our brilliant motel selection when the train went past the back door tooting at 130decibels, - we had to laugh!

Saturday 20th
Not far today, so it was nice to have a leisurely start after in house breaky – 0930 and a quick zip around town – the whole place has a rather unpleasant smell from both feed pen kept cattle close to town, and the aroma of a abattoir or 2 . That would also explain the flies about the place. So after a 5 minute look-see, we……………Got the Hell outta Dodge! (I’ve been dying to say that!)

The road was flat and straight, the day very cloudy with a rain storm skirting around us, haunting the local riders too, who were returning to town as we were leaving.

Very quiet traffic wise, so it was quite pleasant riding, with great surfaces allowing a good average speed, especially when the wind stayed down. We rode past one small town with a sign pointing to “Storm Shelters” which were steel cabinet like bunkers sunk into the ground – Boy it must get pretty rough here!

We stopped in the small town of Kingman for gas, lunch and a quick look at a busy bike store, filled with all used bikes – a great selection. We loved the sign in the shop window: “We called your wife and she said it was OK” LOL.

Arriving in Wichita just after lunchtime, nice and early, we took a spin around town and really liked what we saw. Venturing past the usual parade of Motels, we stumbled upon Hotel at Water Walk (www.Hotelatwaterwalk.com ) advertising rates from $109, so we ducked on in and WOW, highly recommended! Asked if we had a AAA card we said yes as usual, even though we don’t as we’ve never been asked for one (Naughty I know), so for 109 we got a little piece of luxury for the night – modern, spacious, brand new, then they delivered a complimentary snack basket, including 2 tickets to a baseball game nearby, which we were asking about!

After some drinks we sauntered to the nearby Baseball park – near the centre of this modern city.

We felt right amongst the locals as we queued for beer and hotdogs before taking our premo seats on this sunny afternoon. The locals sitting around us made us feel right at home as we enjoyed a fun game to watch with all the American pageantry you’d expect.

Part way through the game I popped down to replenish the beer supplies, returning to learn the Woman sitting behind me copped a stray baseball in the shoulder – phew, thank God I went for drinks.

Sunday 21st
Leaving Witchita we were headed for Locust Grove. Oklahoma. More picturesque scenery including some reminiscent of Route 66 with tumbledown towns complete with old display garages.
I soon spotted a local Sheriff who checked out the bike closely as we drove past. I saw him 2 or 3 more times pulling up cars as we hunted for a motel the Garmin had selected for us.

We stayed in a nice chain motel with a Jacuzzi Room, and enjoyed a refreshing swim in the pool before visiting the pizza parlour 200 metres away for pizza and beer. There was nothing here but the motel, a gas station (sells beer) and the pizza place, - but all we needed. Apparently there had been a Denny’s there also, but the picked it up and trucked it away a couple of years ago when business didn’t catch on

Mon 22nd
Gassing up next door, a local warned us of an impending storm – US storms are to be avoided, but it was fine as we headed across the road to the toll expressway, fingers crossed. We headed to Arkansas and enjoyed very rural back roads, stopping for lunch at a tiny settlement called Deer

This place was the same size as where we live in NZ, with only a church and café where we enjoyed a dinkum back country lunch and a chat with the Owner Operator of Cookies Cafe– we were the only one’s there.

We soon “popped out “on to a main road and continued to the pretty town of Jasper, where one ‘Yard sale ‘included an intact Honda 500/4. After more beautiful back roads, we stayed in Harrision – where looked at the local Honda shop and the excruciatingly cheap bike prices.

We stayed at a Holiday Inn where they provided old hotel towels for bike riders to clean their bikes with. After cooling off in the indoor pool, we walked to a nearby JC Penny where Jude did some shopping, then stopped in to a “All you can eat “buffet nearby with was a bad move – fab food but too much!

Home to clean my helmet and relax, for tommorrow we ride.

[shafty]

[Mr Triple]

Hey.. Awesome wright up and pics Shafty.. Good job we didn't get on the subject

when you were down or you would of had to stay another night for sure!!!

[shafty]

Cheers Chanceyy, Bender, Scumdog, Sinfull and Mr T!

How much did your entire trip cost you if you dont mind me asking?
Looks like you had a fantastic time, and im a little jello! haha

I tend not to total things up, we were fortunate that we were repatriating home from the (tax free) Middle East, so flights were sorted and the Pan Euro was a bike-swap.

Daily costs:

Motel $41 + tax thru $109 + tax - mainly dependent on how we felt. Indulged a bit for the Lady. A bloke would be happy in $40-60 ones where available

Gas $25 a day

Beer: $10 a day

Food: Maybe $30 a day

Hope that helps.

As the Visa advert says: Route 66 and beyond? Priceless..........

[shafty]

Tues 23rd

We doubled back thru beautiful Jasper, then cruised thru all forest roads today. We were to stay with an American couple tonight we had hooked up with via www.motorcycle-travel.net . This a Bed and Breakfast network for Motorcyclists prepared to offer their spare room to travelling Riders, on a reciprocal basis, for a modest fee.

Riding through park-like roads we encountered deer running across the road in front of us. They just dash out of the undergrowth and on to the road. We had seen them standing on the road once before and they moved away pretty damned quick; this time we spotted the deer maybe 50 metres ahead, and watched it dash away. What we should have thought of, was watching for the next one - they seem to move in pairs or more. We missed hitting it, and Jude miraculously caught it on camera.

We stayed with Allan and Karen at Hot Springs Village, Arkansas, a beautiful place indeed.

The Village is a 22,000 acre gated community with 11 lakes and 9 golf courses, and our Host’s house is on the water’s edge. Allan met us at the main entrance to the Village where we had bought wine as a contribution to a dinner they had offered. A fab dinner it was too, as well as being nice to chat with these local motorcyclists about all sorts of things – Allan even insisted putting his own beautiful Police edition BMW out of the garage for us to park under cover.

Wed 24th
After the compulsory photo’s, we headed out under dubious skies, and a threatening storm very close. Allan had guided us out of the extensive country roads which make up the Village, and minutes after waving him off, we were in drenching rain, the worst we had encountered, with visibility thru the visor being bloody terrible.

We limped along the country roads until it relented 30 minutes later – phew. Approaching Memphis involved the passing of dozens of trucks, each whipping us around in their windy wake, - we later learnt that were near a major interstate – linkup, hence the heavy commercial traffic. After visiting a local Polaris/Victory shop for a perve, we stayed at the second Motel we inspected, - next to a truck stop on the city’s Western outskirts, for $60 something. We caught a cab in to Beale St in the city, a historic jazz/party spot, with the huge bonus being that tonight was Bike night. We were there nicely early to sit out in the balmy afternoon at an outdoor table of one of the many bars which line the street, watching the bikes trickle in. The road is closed for all except bikes, and as the sun went down and the neon signs took over, there were hundreds of beautiful bikes spanning the brands, and including some special Indians, Victory’s and ancient Jappers. We Bar hopped up and down and soaked up the fantastic atmosphere with locals and other tourists – a particularly excellent night.

Thurs 25th
On the way out of Memphis, we stopped in for an appointment at an Optometrist which I’d jacked up the day before. I ordered 2 sets of glasses and some contact lenses at the competitive US pricing, - which arrived in NZ shortly after we did.

We rode out to Nachez Trace National Park, took the road thru to Lexington where we decided it was too hot and too late to carry on. Once you start the Trace, there’s no commercial stuff on the road, like motels and air conditioned café’s.

We had to endure even more idyllic countryside and quiet smooth roads before arriving at the bustling service town of Lexington. so we hunkered down at the Day’s Inn for a paltry $50 + tax thanks once again to Triple A. Our room was fine, with beer and nibbles just 80 yards away at the gas station.

It was getting hot, so a dip in the pool, cranking up the AC and a cold beer was called for. Another very comfortable room, with separate desk, fridge and microwave.

I had spotted a Dodge Challenger for sale on the roadside on the way in to town, so popped back for a look. Turns out it was a new one, parked across the road from the dealer. It looked stunning in Toxic Orange –and the base price? $US24,895!!

Later when dinner called, we opted to stroll to a nearby Supermarket to grab some fixings rather than prepared foods, had some laughs along the way and entertained the Checkout Girls who marvelled at our accents – “Y ‘all talk so awesome” LOL

Fri 26 August

After complimentary brekkie, coffee and juice we headed out in (again) perfect sunshine, to pick up the trail of the Nachez Trace National Parkway.

Quite a few Police Patrol cars about today, but we are in cruise mode, - blue skies, warm as, brilliant scenery, no reason to hurry.

Flowing through rural 2 lane roads, the scenery really is enchanting – we love the way fences between properties are rare, with lots of huge mown lawn being the only separation between houses, - very attractive.

We soon came across a picturesque Marina with boats moored at pontoons – under cover!

There were many houseboats there too looking very inviting. It seems many have taken this as a relaxed form of retirement – and it seems to be working for them, with big smiles and relaxing attitudes all round.

After some confusion due to road-works and signage, we found the Nachez Trace – literally riding thru a groomed National Park. No commercial stuff as I said earlier, plenty of historic sights and monuments to stop and view, very little traffic, and more than the normal share of bikes.

We came upon a super high over-bridge where we were looking down around 11 storeys to the expressway below, with amazingly low railings. Two couples on a Harley and a Goldwing were also stopped taking in the view. They told us that it had been a popular place to commit suicide – it would certainly work.

We enjoyed a good laugh with them, and after photo’s headed off to the nearby Loveless Café and Motel they had recommended, for lunch. Using the dedicated MC parking alongside a nice Trophy 900 identical to one I had owned, we had to wait a short time for a table,- this locally famous spot was extremely popular, to the extent that they had a separate gift shop with Loveless merchandise and tasty treats.

The size of the meals were crazy – Jude ordered a salad and received a family sized bowl staked high and laden with chicken – Jude was gobsmacked!

Struggling back to the bike, we passed through Nashville – for a quick fix of bike shops (an original 4 pipe ’76 Honda for $4500 anyone?), then aimed for Woodbury where we were to go to a Rodeo tonight.

Jude had booked ahead the closest Motel to the Rodeo grounds, so we could walk to it. After checking in to this quite new, motel, configured more like a boarding house with ensuite rooms, we strolled into the main street for a look around. A small town, Woodbury was sunny and hot, hot enough to lure us in to a wee bar called The Scoreboard, where friendly service and huge ice cold handles were dispensed. We had dinner here too before walking to the evening’s Rodeo.

The rodeo was a small town event, but very entertaining – from watching the kids swaggering around in their cowboy/girl outfits, to the mechanical bull in the fast food area, the kids riding lambs, thru to the near professional cowboys on bulls and wild horses, - a very entertaining night was had.

Saturday 27th
We were now simply heading West, taking in anything that appealed, without too much serious planning. Heading through some delightful farming areas off the Interstate rewarded us with another set of views, old tractors, decorative post and rail fences, abundant crops, abandoned old fire engines….

We arrived in a largish farming service town called Crossville, and following our technique of spotting the pickups, we found a scrumptious spot for brunch by way of a local diner. On the way out of town we stumbled across a Car Show with beaut classic and rare cars and small trucks on display with no entry fee. So we enjoyed a stroll around in the sunshine.

Onward over tree lined roads, sweeping bridges, high above huge lakes complete with pleasure craft marinas, and past a bunch of cool looking tumble down barns we rode, til we entered the State of Kentucky.

We enjoy a beer at the end of a hot day’s ride, so it was with trepidation that we noticed the lack of any liquor stores or beer in gas stations. We were independently thinking of songs like “Kentucky Moonshine, reference to Kentucky Bourbon etc – surely it’s not a dry county? A quick Google at McDonalds revealed it was, so we rejigged our last riding stint of the afternoon to duck back over the State line! 

We stopped just off the Freeway at Jellicoe where we got a cheap, but nice room (AAA Discount!) at a Days Inn which was HUGE and nearly empty. A bit late in the day for a swim, but the pool looked fab. Across the road for a Mexican meal, home for a catch up of blog/internet and a relax.

Sunday 28th
Goodness me, another stunning sunny day! After gassing at the next door servo, we hopped back on the Interstate for an hours ride to Hazard, a planned Brekkie stop. Despite being on the I/State, we were wending through what seemed like a forest, as so many huge trees lined the concrete ribbon we rode. Really beautiful, and obviously a concerted effort by the US Govt.

Hazard appeared to be a large coal based settlement, carved out of rock canyons, yet modern in commerce. We ‘dined’ in a supermarket café enjoying reading –then returning their magazines after breakfast. People watching was always fun, this morning we observed a huge boy of maybe 13, wandering around the supermarket scoffing a family size cake of dark chocolate, then later saw him outside on his second one, this time white chocolate!

As Willie Nelson would say “On the roaaaaaad again” and soon enough we cruised in to Wild and Wonderful West Virginia, Joes home State. Traffic was real busy on the freeway, as we stopped at the Visitors Centre to take a break and use their facilities.

We (Jude) had planned a few days break, off the bike with a bit of luxury, in Charleston, WV’s capital, prior to returning Joes bike and what a great idea it was. A nice inner city Best Western, with a good Expedia deal, nice pool and walking distance to shops and restaurants, did the trick.

Three nights of chilling out, giving the bike a wash, exploring local eateries and shops was a nice end to an amazing trip.

We were only an hour’s ride to Beckley, where we were to return Joe’s bike and uplift our spare gear, but it was probably the most nervous of the trip, playing it real careful not to make any silly mistakes resulting in a tip-over or worse.

Arriving in Beckley, we zipped in to a Wendy’s for a cool drink when we heard a car tooting at us excitedly – it was Joe who happened to driving past and spotted his bike. A quick intro to Jude and he zipped on his way.

After picking up a box of beer to share with our host, it was with huge relief that we pulled in to Joe’s garage and turned the key off – no tip overs, injuries, tickets or damage.

A cool night of catching up with Joe and his lady, Betty followed by a neat dinner out as a thank you from us rounded the trip off nicely.

It was all over. Phew. What a bloody fantastic trip – amazing – weather and scenery fantastic, America is very user friendly, fun place to travel, - and it’s BLOODY BIG.

Were we disappointed it was over? No way. It had been a trip of a lifetime, - the second for me, and we were heading home to beautiful New Zealand after 2 years away.

The highlights were untold. I would not be surprised if we return, a firm friendship with Joe is a nice bonus, Cheers Mate.

Thanks for reading this!

Shafty

[shafty]

[wynw]

awesum write up Shafty! Thanks for sharing.

[shafty]

[shafty]

[shafty]

[shafty]

[shafty]

[insomnia01]

Awesome write up Shafty now where's that lotto ticket

[martybabe]

Great write up Shafty, tis the stuff dreams are made of dude, well done you.

P.S. Did I mention I'm just a tad jealous