Shafty's USA Ride Report, Route 66 and beyond - caution long, with pix

[shafty]

After much planning, and the counting of days til we leave Bahrain after a 2 year stint (sentence?) Jude and I finally flew in to Washington DC as the start of our USA Adventure - riding Route 66 with some Kiwi Mates.

The time had finally come!

It was great to immediately see the favourable change in culture versus Bahrain – no thobes or Burkhas to be seen anywhere, a fraction of the number of Airport officials, and the ones we did deal with were very professional and courteous

We grabbed a cab to our pre booked Motel – a forty US dollar ride later we were in Motel Super 8 Manassas which was comfy and after some checking of e-mail etc, Jude was very soon ZZZZZZ just after dark.

Tues 19th July
We grabbed a Hyundai rental from Enterprise Car Hire – they even picked us up - $48 plus insurance for the day, collected by Brad, saved UNTOLD taxi $$ searching 3 major bike shops: It was great to be able to drive freely – Bahrain is only 32 miles long and an island, so nice not to be cooped up for a change.

We’ve used our Garmin GPS in 5 countries so far, and again it was invaluable navigating us stress free around Washington as we visited 3 decent sized Bike shops nearby.

We were after riding shoes and a mesh jacket for Jude, which we found.

We sorted a Verizon phone from a Target store, (thanks KB Mates for advice on this) just $20 includes a nice Samsung Camera phone and $10 in prepaid airtime, plus I sorted a USA plug for our multi-box so we have the right power plugs for mobiles, camera’s, NoteBook and GPS charging.

Jude had to jet home for a funeral – I was staying on in the US to pick up the bike from West Virginia and relocating it to Chicago where she will rejoin me and 4 Kiwi Friends to, firstly, celebrate her big “0” birthday, then to start Route 66.

Wed 20th
Up early and checked out to find and hit the Dulles (pronounced Dallas) Airport Enterprise Rentals yard – SUCCESS! Found it easy, (Google/GPS) and free shuttle back to airport – just saved 40 Bucks.

Geez talk about a dodgy old twin prop plane, well due for retirement but it got me to Beckley, WV – about an hour’s flight away, where I was collecting a silver ST1300 from my new friend Joe.

I met Joe online when he was seeking a “bike swap” to tour NZ on. Joe rode my red ST around the North and South Islands in Feb ’11, so it was was great to meet him in person, he’s a lovely Guy, a retired Mining Engineer, and we had a great chat about all sorts.

I also met Charlie, a friend of Joe’s who is resting up at Joes with a broken leg after a slow speed tip over of his C90 Boulevard. Charlie is 67 and can’t wait to get back on it.

After lowering the (non electric) screen, hooking up the GPS and loading the panniers and top box, we enjoyed a home cooked meal of Pinto beans, fried spud, corn on the cob and pork chops and corn bread, washed down with a couple of beers and a good chat. I grabbed an early night, for “Tomorrow, I Ride.”

Thurs 21st
After a shower and 2 coffees I hit the road an hour earlier than my target of 9.00. Great to be back on a Pan Euro, - I was enjoying the comfort and power, this is touring First Class. The GPS took me to the route North east Joe had recommended, it was working real good the way I set it up, with the unit sitting in the clear top pocket of the tank-bag and a power lead exiting to a cigarette connection in the fairing glove-box, and with a simple earpiece to my ear, obviously. Nice and clear. – Bluetooth would be nice, but this was working fine.

I had the best part of a week to get to Chicago, so had decided to head to Carlisle, Pennsylvania where they were holding a Bike Fest.

I loved the beautiful lush green scenery and some amazing bridges over valleys which seemed a mile deep as I was leaving Beckley, - I was on the super-slab to Covington to get things cracking, then joined the beautiful 2 lane Route 220 heading North West, with mile upon mile of tree lined and green canopy covered roads, sweeping nicely through the curvy countryside, through gorgeous USA towns with their trimmed lawns and patriotic flags, - this is as good as it gets. Plenty of gas and food options everywhere.

I saw a couple of dead deer on the roadside – reiterating not to ride in to the evenings and also early mornings – you don’t want to hit one of those suckers on the bike.

I passed a couple of ideal looking Motels, with food and a beer handy, but it was too early to stop riding – or was it? Read on, lesson learn’t…

I stumbled across a mega sized Walmart in the middle of nowhere so grabbed a cool drink, some AC and 2 cheap ($10) sports bags to organise the panniers better.

After straying off route a couple of times (I was following an easy route so didn’t bother with the GPS but got tripped up at a couple of weird intersections) I was getting pretty close to Pennsylvania. I had about 450 miles to do over 2 days but had done 400 this day, and not all in a direct line! Oh well. I did ride far too late into the day and with temps topping out at 104F, it was starting to swelter, not good for hydration or concentration, let alone comfort.

I found a town where the Welcome Centre was locked mid afternoon! No motels in others, one motel in Bedford with no one on site, make that 2, ……..Eventually found a motel in Bedford PA for $28 plus tax! Quite a good one too. No dinner, just rehydration drinks – not even a beer – must be a dry county. The GPS of course has the option to locate the nearest (listed) motels nearby, which is a fantastic aid.

Sorted bags and relaxed, had a great sleep.

[shafty]

Fri 22 Jul
A later start today, even tho I was awake and up by 6am (body clock) – check out is an indulgent 11am here, and accommodation is pre booked at Carlisle, with just a short 88 mile or so hop, so a good chance to do blog stuff etc

Mr Garmin took me directly to my pre-booked Motel 6, and after cooling down and a swim, I rode to the BikeFest nearby. Free entry was a bonus. There were some people on the gate and I asked what the story was about parking, One shouted 8 Dollars. Yeah right, and I rode in. Seems no one else was paying, maybe she was referring to Overnight RV parking?

I was impressed with the huge Kenworth type rigs the big bike brands bring to these things – nothing like it in NZ, Victory, Star (Yammie), Kawasaki and Vulcan (Kawa Cruiser brand) were represented in the big rig league with many many spanking new demo bikes to ride.

There was a track set out for stunting, assorted fast food options (yuk) and LOTS of iced water being sold as it was 100F and everyone was melting. I found no area which was air conditioned, it was all under the vendors own tent shade or open barn shade with fans blowing everywhere.

Lots of custom gear and bikes on display, mobile dyno’s, 3 or 4 tattoo set ups and a several yard sale type stalls selling old/used bike stuff.

One Harley Dealer had made a huge commitment by moving around 100 bikes there for sale in a separate barn area – a big job – hope it works for them, 95% of the Fest was geared toward the Cruiser market. I really felt sorry for the Vendors who were not seeing their fair share of public attendance due to the extreme temps, and had to sit in the heat all day themselves to try and make a buck.

People all over were literally pouring water over themselves to try and beat the heat. The Fest would be the perfect opportunity to compare new Cruisers if you were in the market tho.
I bought a couple of patches to put up in my garage which made me smile:

I was stunned to see, and photographed, some KKK Badges for sale with SS type insignia WTF
Retreated to the Motel for some AC with a couple of Bud’s (Weisers) and ordered pizza .

Saturday 23rd
Up and off earlyísh – 0730, - as I was firing up the ST there was a commotion at the adjacent block of Motel units and I was told separately by 2 ecstatic Guys that one of their Mates had just won the lucky draw prize from the Fest, a Boss Hoss and $180,000 cash, if it was to be believed – they were certainly excited.

Took a couple of snaps of pretty Carlisle then hit the road, temperature was low 70’s (F), nice.
I saw an Amish horse and carriage trotting along the road – looked NEAT! If it wasn’t so early I would have (should have) ridden back down the road to take a photo of them passing – too early to stop I told myself…..lesson learn’t.

Intent on clocking some miles up today to more than split the 1/3rd distance to Chicago. I ate 100 miles on the Interstate before stopping at Donegal PA for a drink and a peach pie (Yum! – my 1st pie in USA)- before getting myself in a bit of a GPS loop.

After since Googling a Garmin tutorial I can see how it happened, and although I didn’t cover a huge misguided distance – I certainly saw some interesting back roads. I expected to hear the plucking of banjo’s a couple of times. The Garmin is sitting in the top of the tank bag and I listen via an earpiece, being careful not to be tempted to look at the screen while moving.
I occasionally hit the bottom right “Next turn” prompt button to hear His Masters Voice tell me where the next turn is – a bit like with a small child, I get suspicious when things go quiet.

Sometimes it may be “Proceed 157 miles then turn right” so it is a long time between phrases. Anyway, with gloved hands it is a fine line getting the exact contact patch on the touch screen, and touching the map itself prompts a VIA point……you can see where I’m heading. When I heard, in the middle of narrow farming roads, “Ärriving at Area” the penny dropped, oh well, LOL, Fun to look back on and as I say, saw some neat back roads and rural areas.

And some dodgy ones 
After trawling thru the picturesque Pittsburgh, (love those bridges) I stopped at a Burger King for a cold drink, bathroom and AC, once again it was sweltering by lunchtime. Pulling the map out and comparing the GPS I momentarily freaked out to see I was heading back into West Virginia!! WTF?

Then looking at the big picture I see the northern tip of WV comes up way further than I thought – PHEW Gassed up $20 then….

I decided enough was enough when I got to Canton and after walking away from one Motel inspection, I was delighted to find a Budget style motel called Towne Manor, and just $44.75 a night with wifi.

Turned out to be a flea pit with filthy towels, and in a decidedly seedy neighbourhood, as evidenced by the clientele at the nearby Check Cashing Store – I felt like I had tumbled in to a re run of Hill Street Blues, those baggy pants the young Guys wear around their knees must cause some back problems later in life surely – the way they swagger along – at least I could out run the 2 dodgy looking Guys following me from the Grocery store if need be I thought, LOL - Oh well, it’s just one night lol, another lesson learned! Plus I clocked 300 + miles, great.
Bought some fresh bread rolls and tomatoes for dinner.

Sunday 24th
It rained overnight so Joes bike has had its first wash  but it was fine the next morning as I rode to Farmer Boy’s for brekkie – a popular place on a Sunday morning, plenty of American pickups parked outside, – am loving the friendly service at these type of places.

Overnight I had programmed the GPS to stay off Interstates as I wasn’t enjoying the buffeting at highway speeds and am missing the electric screen button at such times, but am enjoying seeing the sights as I take to more local roads.

I also changed the gps voice to English Female – yesterday’s Guy was in disgrace! A few hours later I found myself thinking “I wonder what she is wearing?” Sad, lol, but Judy arrives tomorrow to join the trip.

Aiming for Rochester tonight with temperatures much nicer today – I have taken to wearing a tank-top under my jacket – seems to be much cooler than a T Shirt . Saw some amazing wind turbines – they never look as big in your photo’s as they are in real life huh?

Lots of long flat roads, but nice and smooth – making good progress. Encountered a couple of patrol cars amongst the smaller towns – they are quite easy going huh? Not that I am pushing it, but in NZ 103 KM/hr gets a ticket in a 100 km/hr (open road) area. As one American Guy said at a Service Centre “That’s a Profit Centre right there”

A patrol car followed me in to Edgerton, Man 25 mph is slow huh? I found some unused ratio’s in the ST’s gearbox, lol Gassed up here, $25.66 – am pleasantly surprised by the petrol prices – I’ve dumped 60 bucks in the Pan Euro in NZ.

Lots of bikes out today – Sunday Riders I’d call them, all on Cruisers, mostly Hardley’s although I have seen some spunky Jap Cruisers out too VTX1800’s, Roadliners etc – nice. Not a helmet in sight, mostly jeans and t shirts and some without shirts. I feel like a freak wearing “protection”!

More beaut small US towns today, beautifully trimmed lawns, glistening white weatherboards and the US flag proudly flown – looking great Guys!
Bed tonight was the Best Westie Kendallville, not a cheapie but some comfort to average out last night – and enjoyed a lovely meal and glass of wine at Applebee’s across the road. This a great value chain of Restaurants – and most importantly, licensed.

Monday 25th July
Up at 0530, complimentary breakfast went down well after taking some photo’s of the fog – yes fog! It cleared to a beaut day and on the road to Goshen having reprogrammed Ms Garmin for Interstate inclusion.

Stopped at Walmart here for some new sunglasses, and got to see the Amish horse and carriages up close in the undercover parking Wally’s obviously provides for them. Later I saw one leaving the carpark – intriguing and bizarre all at the same time. Obviously there were some Amish inside shopping and quite distinctive in their white bonnets and 1980’s spectacles.
A nice clean run through to the Interstate then munched some easy miles – am thinking of raising the screen a bit as I am finding myself slouching to avoid the wind stream and buffeting, but not too bad today and nice temps too – around 80F.

I am quite amazed at, and love, the speeds that are acceptable here – with 75mph being what you do to keep up with the big rigs, I even clocked a heavy haulage tow truck, with a Kenworth size tractor unit under tow getting along at 75 (120 km/hr).

I also came up behind another bike on the freeway – most unusual, haven’t seen many bikes at all there, - anyway this Guy was on a CBR900RR complete with extended swing arm (as ya do) sitting on 75mph with no helmet, just a T shirt and long shorts with the wind billowing the shirt up around his neck. He looked a bit like Tom Cruise actually which would make sense in a weird sort of a way!

Ms Garmin was behaving great, taking me on toll road after toll road (often called Turnpikes), and lining up the lanes and exits perfectly. The toll roads seem to be less busy and devoid of Cops, so distance is covered faster for some reason. The closer I got to Chicago the busier the roads were obviously, going from 3 lanes each way to 4, 5, 6 - and this was a nice gradual process so as not to freak out the Boy from Matiere (population 34).

Even when traffic got thick, I found the US Drivers to be focussed, safe and polite – esp when compared to NZ and to Bahrain where I’ve spent the last 2 years dodging crazy drivers.

Arriving at our Motel 8 right on time at 12.30, a quick unload in to our ground floor room, then off to The Zone Kawasaki/Honda Shop to buy some riding shoes and drool over the new GL1800’s and assorted Cruisers. Great service here, good prices and range of bikes and product,and a free T shirt, nice. I’m just awaiting the rest of the Crew to arrive now – and my Wife Jude back from a quick NZ trip……

[shafty]

The Crew arrive – firstly Jude, then Graeme and Janice who were travelling by rental car.

Sue and Kev (of Moto TT Track day fame) end up in a bad bad part of town from taking a fellow travellers advice on using the train, hence I get a text saying “HELP”- come get us…. Not helped by using NZ phones, we headed toward them with a Cabbie who had his takeaways spread out on the front passenger seat – classic - then just before rescuing our Fellow travellers from what they expected as an impending mugging I got a text to say they had found a cabbie who had finally agreed to bring them to us. I've never heard Kev sounding so serious!

Soon enough all three Couples were enjoying a reunion drink in our motel room, all keyed up to start the adventure.

Tuesday 26th July

Jude’s 60th Birthday today so some special stuff lined up, but first we collect the rental GL1800 from The Zone in Bridgeview – the shop where I was yesterday – English Billy Connolly and his entourage had visited here just a couple of months ago as a matter of interest.

We deliver the bikes back to the motel and jump in a waiting people mover to zip into the city for an awesome Segway tour of the waterfront – an awesome experience we all agreed – and wow, what a beautiful city! If you haven’t tried a Segway tour – do it – they are awesome, easy to use and great to cover ground while having fun, this was a real highlight for us.

Home for some free time til we are collected by a stretched limo which we took back into, and around the city enjoying some bubbly, then into the fun part of the city for a brilliant dinner at Fred’s restaurant, - recommended! Jude had a brill birthday and loved the gold necklace I’d bought in the Bahrain Gold Souq a few weeks earlier.

Wed 27th
We allowed for a quiet start to the first road day, taking into account possible trepidation from the newly arrived Kiwi’s, so around 10.30am we headed off with co ordinated GPS’s and a place to meet should we get split up, - which comically happened almost instantly, lol, but clear thinking by all soon had the bikes reunited in Wilmington, and we hooked up with the “Mother Ship” – Janice and Graeme in the Corolla, soon enough.

We passed thru Dwight, starting to pick up the Route 66 trail, passing wind turbines looking so majestic, then stopped at Odell and their lovely preserved/restored gas station. After a good look around and requisite purchasing of souvenirs for the garage, we moved on as 20 – 30 Norwegian Harley Riders arrived complete with support van and trailer (what are they for?). It reminded me of the advice Kev was given when picking up the Goldwing – Ït’s a Honda so don’t worry about checking the oil”.

We then enjoyed the lovely town of Pontiac, which features a Route 66 museum and took the photo opportunities the rear of the courtyard backdrop museum offers, then on to Carlingville for lunch. This town features a town square and many beautifully preserved buildings – think tall red brick commercial buildings, and towering pillars adorning the courthouse. On thru the corn and bean crops to Springfield Illinois stopping in a Motel 6. Sue was under the weather so a dash to a pharmacy for some ‘”get well “stuff. Taco Bell dinner 200 metres away for the rest of us.

Thursday 28 th July
After packing the bikes – getting easier all the time, with dedicated bags and a bit of a system going by now, we popped next door to a quaint café a few steps away for a “dinkum “American breakfast then on the road. It was a very warm day with the temps accelerating thru the 70’s > 80’s > 90’s > then over 100. We managed to find some interesting ‘loops ‘of Route 66, the brick road was an irresistible photo stop, as was the Old Chain of Rocks Bridge – or the Bridge to Nowhere as we called it – great stuff.

We passed some Segway tourists here – way to go.

Soon enough we had stopped in a small settlement called Halltown where we saw some ancient shops, then arrived at Gay Parita where the most beautifully preserved Sinclair Gas Station is a must see. Old Timer Gary, a former Route 66 Person of the Year, gave us many laughs with his antics. We left him some NZ souvenirs, and bought some local ones. Photo opportunities were everywhere with open workshops sporting cars, trucks and even a gas tanker of the era – you really did feel as though you’d stepped back in time.

After more following the elusive trail that is sometimes Route 66, we finally arrived in St Louis and trolled thru the heat and the stop/start traffic lights in the burbs of the sprawling city – in retrospect a different gps setting would have avoided the sweltering heat by keeping to the free flow of the I/State but hey, we are learning as we go.

We were seriously uncomfortable in the heat by now, and poor Sue was quite ill, so we quickly sought and found AC and iced water then booked in to the closest Hotel we could find – the Drury Inn – and a good choice it was with a 5.30 “kick back “(free drinks and food) free wifi, pool and brekkie.
After a nice dinner at the neighbouring Ruby Tuesdays it was bed and ZZZZZZZZZ.

Fri 29th July
Early start, Sue decided a day in the car was wise til she feels better, so we up and were off.
Stopping at a Hyosung Shop for a gander where we met with more great friendly service, admired the bikes, checked out the mesh jackets (mine had proven too hot) photographed the 1963 Honda (CT?) 90 on display with 1100 miles on the clock beaut, and exchanged some small souvenirs with the friendly Dealer. We then pressed on toward Lebanon.

I had a very near miss on a quiet part of Route 66 where I came up behind a stationary red pick up in my lane. I gave him a good blast on the Stebel to let him know I was there. His brake lights were on, no turn signals. Continuing to approach him under brakes, I signalled and started to pass him, when he started to turn left! I counter-steered hard left, under brakes and got another blast of the stebel in.

He must have seen me out of the corner of his eye as I was level with his door by now, and he was half way thru his turn, inches (inch?) from me, when he straightened up. By the grace of God I managed to get around him, going off the edge of the left hand side of the road to do so, on to the grass, off the power, off the brakes and nursed Big Silver along the sloping lawn and back up on to the road. PHEW. Couldn’t have been closer. Kevin who was following got a good view.
I saw no point in stopping to talk to the Driver so kept riding in an effort to stabilise my heart beat,
If it did turn out to be a tipover it would have been slow and on grass but I prefer the outcome we achieved. I’ve analysed the whole thing over and again to learn from it.
After stopping – and shopping at a new souvenir shop a few miles short of Lebanon, we came outside to discover a rear flat tire on the ST, Bugger. Jude stayed in the air con, and Kev and I headed for town on the 1800. We quickly found the Honda and Yammie shop – LCC, Lebanon Cycle Centre.

Troy the owner couldn’t do enough for us, - he quickly hitched up the trailer and after buying gas for his truck and water for us, headed out to pick up the bike, returning to the shop and repairing the puncture. We all perved at the new GL’s and assorted Yamaha’s while the repair was happening.

After all this fantastic service, the charge was $10!!!! Thank you very much Troy!
90 minutes from the time we found the flattie, we were on the road to a BBQ Pit lunch – superb recovery!

We got our first rain of the trip today – not long, but you Guys have BIG rain drops here!
After donning my jacket and Kev adjusting his screen, we pushed on cautiously. The ST was behaving well but the Wing didn’t like the wet at all, so we slowed the pace.

We stopped for the night in Springfield Missouri at another Drury Inn, Ruby Tuesdays for dinner, then shared a 6 pack in room with The Boys.

Sat 30th July 2011

We had agreed on an early start – so after a free brekkie we made a 7am departure – gassed up then off to meet up with our Buddies in the car, very soon known as the “Mother Ship “ who were in Rolla – our original target. The plan was for Sue to spend a day or two with the car Team, enjoy the AC and recuperate. Coming from a NZ winter to some US summer high temperatures does not work well when you are already ill!

Route 66 again and a delightful visit to Gary’s Service Station –, much hilarity and great photo’s – a tiny bit of rain which came to nothing Lunch/drinks at McDonalds in Joplin, - encountered some gravel road but ok and back on the superslab to Vinita where at around 2.30p we hit a Holiday Inn to avoid the 104F temps. Did laundry, visited Walmart next door and Kev bought a nice Kodak camera for $99. Some more beautiful scenery today including Joblins architecture – no sign of the tornado damage.

[shafty]

A big “Push “day with the plan being to eat some miles, so a 6am on-the-road start time was agreed on. Sure enough we were all on the ball, had a quick chat with a HD Rider and his Son setting off in their car at the same time, off to CA to set up Son in uni – many can relate.
79 degrees F and still dark, but very comfy, and great to get on the road. We were aiming ambitiously for Amarillo – some 450 miles away and with a hot hot day ahead, we’ll see….
Soon enough we were in Tulsa for breakfast at Tally’s Café – a brilliant visit, and a 100 miles before brekkie. Two poached eggs on toast was an excellent choice and Kev and Sue exchanged gifts with a very amiable Owner and Staff who really made the visit special, - a great start to a long day. Shortly thereafter a gas up with the pump debit card system playing ball today.
We then had a small hassle trying to overcome a “motorway closed” sign to where we wanted to enter. Some exploration, including our lead car driving the wrong way down a quiet street to ask a Cop Car ( wasn’t impressed lol) resulted in us finding our way past the closure no thanks to any signage, but minimal delay and we were west bound.
We had only one touristy stop planned, the Round Barn in Clinton – which we didn’t see the need to spend much time at, so we were once again on the Interstate. Lots of cruisers and beautiful classic American cars out on this stunning sunny Sunday – lots of waves to and fro.
We have developed a system – developed by Sue and Kev, of not only carrying bottles of cold water with us, but also a bag of ice! A bag lasts around an hour in the hottest part of the day, but sitting on Jude’s lap and against my back and between sucking ice and the melted icy water soaking our jeans, it is bliss at temps over 100F. Along with rewetting our shirts and gel collars, we covered a credible 700 + km’s that way and all agreed we arrived fresh and ready for action!
We are loving the sights on the freeway – piggy backed trucks is my favourite, seeing three new Volvo’s hitched behind the delivery truck yesterday – brilliant, a car transporter full of golf carts – too many to count as it flashed by, and another car transporter fill of classic cars.
With the NZ dollar so strong against the $US, our eyes are bulging at the export possibilities – cars? Bikes? Mowers? (Incredibly cheap Vs NZ)…….tires (tyres) at a fraction of the NZ prices……
There’ll be some Lads from Indiana who are working in Texas sporting NZ Ulysess Bike Club stickers on their hard hats tomorrow, the “Grow Old Disgracefully” logo appealing to them – we are meeting some lovely people on the road/at gas stations etc – all very friendly and curious about the “Kiwis on Tour “vinyl stickers both bikes and car are wearing…. (Kiwi’s being a flightless native NZ bird as well as the name of a fruit plus the nickname of New Zealanders)
Sunday 31st July
After a great night out last night we packed the bikes by 0600, breakfast and on the Honda’s by 0630 – no one letting the Team down. A quick gas up – the GL sucking more gas than the ST, and off into the lovely darkness of early morning Albuquerque, firstly heading for the Cadillac Ranch which Janice our expert navigatioligist found immediately. KOOL!
Loved it – its quite iconic for someone from so far away, so some pics mid sunrise then off on down the freeway.

Quite a decent mileage to cover today, but much cooler – very nice thank-you, and making good time. We passed in to New Mexico then stopped at a neat Truckstop/Service centre after about 80 miles where there is also a Car Museum . After some brill brekkie service we enjoyed the delights of the car collection. Art whose collection it is, spent some time in Australia, so we had a good chat, and enjoyed his indepth knowledge of his toys.
Saddling up and eating miles, we enjoyed the changing landscapes and colours and clouds and the different shapes and sizes our fellow freeway travellers took. A couple of comfort/gas stops and we were in Al buquerque by 11.30am thanks to losing an hour with time zones. We pulled up to compare notes/navigation to accommodation at the side of the road – and Janice had cleverly stopped us exactly opposite the Route 66 Diner – where better to have lunch?
I just HAD to try the peanut butter thick-shakes and the traditional American hotdog topped off a quissential US food experience – both were a delight. We all enjoy lining up at the bar for seating where there is one – something new and novel to us. Post lunch and with a hotel plugged in to the gps and were in the Airport Comfort Inn soon after.
Jude and I took the opportunity to jettison some cargo, stuff we weren’t using, by posting it to WV Joe (cheers Mate). The Boys took a strop around town in the Corolla to see some bike shops – Honda was a nice shop – we are still all stunned by bike and gear prices, the Honda Guys were friendly and obliging, then off to Cycle Gear where Susan, and Aussie Girl took us under her wing. A nice set of light gloves were purchased plus a free T shirt –Cheers Susan, you rock!
The Girls are now out at Walmart looking at Notebooks and Camera’s – Go Girls. Then dinner at Applebee’s then home to bed.
Monday 1st August
Up and packed by 0600 then brekkie in-house – Oat bran and a banana and on the road after gassing up and checking tyre pressures, winding our way out of an awakening Albuquerque – a pretty desert city.
Temps were down at 63F so a little chilly without the jacket and 20 minutes of vast vast landscape later we all pulled over to rug up. After a good hour we stopped for coffee and a second breakfast for some – at Jackson Town – some even ordered from the Seniors Menu – and were eligible too as well!
Back on the road eating some big miles and being passed by the odd big rig doing 80+ mph (!) we passed in to New Mexico to some amazing scenery, reds and browns and amazing rock formations, stopping at Lupton to do some Indian Jewellery shopping for the Girls and a nice wee birthday/thank you gift for Janice our Navigator extraordinaire. Some of the most pronounced eye catching rock formations were right here.
While enjoying the sun outside I was chatting with a 30’s Indian Guy who was admiring the Honda’s. He rides off road with his 4 Brothers and when I asked if there were good trails nearby he said they can ride to Flagstaff (180miles?) off road with gas stations dotted along the way – how kool is that.
We made the pilgrimage to Winslow, Arizona for a pic “standing at the corner”(Eagles Song – Takin it Easy), it’s a neat set up for a pick – well done Winslow – and a top notch souvenir shop did well out of our admiration for the Eagles. Lunch was taco style across the road at Bojo’s – recommended great service food and atmosphere. Chatted to a couple of top Harley Riders here on the way home to Ohio from a California ride, real friendly.
We continued our ride to Williams, a very pretty albeit touristy small town which is the step off point for the Grand Canyon. A sea of beautiful yellow flowers on both sides of the Interstate welcomed us in brilliant sunshine to our pre booked Travel Lodge Motel accommodation. Soon enough we were pool side recounting the day.
Williams has an excellent collection of tourist/souvenir shops tuned to Route 66, as well as genuine Rte 66 Diners etc. A daily gunfight in the main street was a hoot, and there are plentiful bars and eateries to enjoy. We had drinks/nibbles in Cruisin 66 where we could sit outside in the fading sun, and people/vehicle watch, and enjoy the live excellent soloist on the guitar.
Dinner was at the Red Ravin after some irresistible shopping.
Next day was dedicated to the Grand Canyon, catching the GC Train after a nice breakfast barside at the Route 66 Diner across the road from our lodgings. This was originally a Denny’s back in 1963 and one of the Waitresses has been there ever since! Off to the Railway Station a few minutes walk away, we watched the Cowboy Battle – these Guys are really funny, and on the train for the 2.25 hour ride to the GC.
We were well looked after with an Attendant in each carriage keeping us informed of where we were and what to do – plus on each leg of the journey we had a musician come thru the car to entertain. The Grand Canyon was, predictably, amazing. We took gazillion photo’s and people watched before a short stint hiking down and back a small way for more pix and bragging rights. The return trip seemed longer with a carriage full of kids but a beer and a wine eased the passage.
Dinner at the local Steak House followed by catching up with a couple of other Tourists we had met the day before in the local bar topped the day nicely.
Thursday Aug 4th
Up and at brekkie by 6.45, on the road by 7am and a stunning sunny day – a nice ride to Seligman which lived up to my memories of visiting in ’94. Visited some excellent Route 66 Shops and was truly delighted to once again meet Angel at his Barbershop. As I said to him, he doesn’t look a day older – what a tremendous Gentleman he is – surrounded by throngs of Tourists but kind enough to spend time to have a chat, take a photo and offer coffee.
Angel and his Brother were a major part of the Route 66 Preservation Society all those years ago – iconic. Off to Kingman, but not before re-tracking to the nearest tire shop after feeling a partly deflated rear tire – I discovered a lose valve, and am hoping that was the problem.
When I caught up with the others, they were parked under a tree enjoying some Rte 66 Root Beer with another young Kiwi Couple they had bumped in to – on a nice new Harley dresser.
Onwards to Kingman and hanging a left off to Oatman – what stunning countryside to ride through – and finally some corners! After having big rigs pass us doing 80 mph, this was much more fun.
Temps were touching 100F by now and the town was full of Harleys – all identical on a tour from Chicago, with a Dealer Back Up van. The only open restaurant was full so after a toilet water and ice cream stop it was back to Kingman for a diner lunch.
Topped up the tire (slow leak?) the next stop was the Hoover Dam – very impressive indeed. $7 parking was a bit sharp for a bike I thought but hey. It topped 112F here, so after some AC and lots of water and ice we pushed thru the last 28 miles or so to Vegas – Super 8, and a sleepin tomorrow!
After some time out we met in the lobby, took a short walk to a nearby Hotel for a drink and bar snacks dinner – Happy Hour – then booked a stretched Hummer to tour Vegas for an hour – just $125 for 6 of us – amazing – and wow what a ride. Isn’t Vegas just crazy? 2nd time here and it’s crazier = Adult Disneyland for sure. So we ended up at New York New York and 1 drink later were doing the Roller Coaster – WTF!! Survived, poor Janice was so proud of doing it (Well done Girl)

[shafty]

[Meanie]

An amazing write up Shafty, im looking froward to the next instalment.
Monie andd i are going to do something similar in a few years, your write up has got me all excited again

[shafty]

An amazing write up Shafty, im looking froward to the next instalment.
Monie andd i are going to do something similar in a few years, your write up has got me all excited again

Cheers Menie, nice to know someone is reading it!

[shafty]

[shafty]

[yungatart]

Loved your write up, Shafty, and pics.
I did USA in '05. Went LA to New York and back to LA in an F250 pick up.
Memories of lots of the same things, including Winslow ,The Cadillac Ranch and Grand Canyon, (although mine was by chopper, I can really recommend it!)

I always wanted to go back and do Route 66 on a bike...maybe one day I will!(When I get the money sorted)

[shafty]

Friday 5th August
Sleep in’s all round and a leisurely tour of bike shops turned a little awry when we were dropped at the Harley Shop – we thought we may as well have a look now we are here – huge shop, nothing without HD logos on it, including trailers, trikes, golf clubs and boxer shorts. Oh well, Hondas here we come – but alas not a cab to be found – so we called one from the Supermarket next door – 2 hours later we finally got the Ford Dealership to successfully call one. Seems we were both out of the city loop area and Cabbies hate fares from supermarkets as they are usually “short haul “and no tip!

I retired early with a sore eye from a damaged contact lens while the others went to a Gladys Knight concert, and taking in some Vegas sights.

Sat 6th August
Thankfully my eye had healed, so after fare-welling Janice and Graeme who were flying out to Hawaii we pumped the rear tire on the ST with pando and with 75c of air from the gas station and headed outta Vegas as some people were straggling home from a night out!
I saw one Guy whose day wasn’t shaping up well, sitting handcuffed on the side walk while his car was being hauled on to a tow truck – How’s ya day going Mate? Lol

Successful navigation by Sue this time, as we headed for Barstow following the remainder of Route 66. We encountered some of the most stunning scenery today – really beautiful iconic desert straights and Joshua trees, the mammoth US trains passing both ways alongside side and occasionally across our path, - trains SO long and powered both ends by multiple huge loco’s.

We ate breakfast in a deserted desert type oasis Diner – we appreciated the AC and a chance to rest butts.

On on to Barstow after getting the requisite Route 66 shield painted on the road – awesome pics they are too. Kevin chose a different shield as we pushed on to a safer spot. When we caught up a few minutes later they were chuckling about the GL18 tipping over when Kev realised too late the side stand wasn’t properly down!

No damage to Man Woman or beast and quickly up-righted, however I was gutted to hear they didn’t have the presence of mind to get an iconic pic with a Goldie on the deck next to the shield!
On to Barstow where we lined up the nicest Motel in town but we were told to “come back at 2pm, we have lots of rooms then” – the lazy Manager relaying instructions to the cleaning Lady at the desk, so rather than wait 2 hours we took our money and butts to Victorville.

After having a troll thru the Victory/Kawasaki Dealership, where I admired a Cross Country, Jude drooled over an Eight Ball, and a ZG1400 was an unbelievable price to a Kiwi, we booked in at the Hilton Gardens – a bit of luxury for our final night with Sue and Kev.

Checked in, then I went in search of a new tire. The Honda Dealership was very helpful but didn’t have a tire, couldn’t get one for a few days. Turned out the Manager was from NZ so I sought him out, and he was born in the same small town I was- amazing! As, once again, were the new bike prices.

We noticed later that the ST which was on the centre stand, had sunken in to the hot tarmac, - phew, saved a freakish tip-over from hot black top.

We enjoyed a nice dinner with wine inhouse, toasting our fantastic ride on Rte 66 and all we had experienced, then popped next door to an amusement park for a go on the go karts and amusement arcade games. The karts were geared for toddlers, so a slow mo race was on! Then Kev showed us all up with his shooting skills, and Jude whipped my butt on the Isle of Man simulation, good laughs all round.

Sunday 7th
A leisurely breakfast, bran and yoggie and after finding a deflated tire, used Joes electric pump to inflate it for a quick trip to a gas station. Then with the bikes packed be bee lined to a gas station and Cosco for glue for Kev to glue back on the H of Honda which popped off when he washed it.

By the time we reached Costco the rear of the ST was more or less flat, so dropping off Jude and the tank bag I squirmed to the gas station to pump her up and some pando to add encouragement.
By the time I got back to the Team, she was flat again, so after a new valve from the Harley Dealer and s Fix a Flat can from Pep Boys, we were in business. This product isn’t recommended for bikes, but hey, in a small town on a Sunday, ‘needs must ‘. Turned out to work beautifully.

Final farewells to our Taupo Buddies and were Bakersfield bound.

Lots of wind today – also another mental note to raise the screen manually as soon as I have a time gap. Amazing contrasts in land again, dry dry land and flourishing crops of citrus and corn obviously cleverly irrigated.

We emerged toward Bakerfield on the Interstate down a valley in to a amazingly huge plain, - bigger than Ben Hur to a Kiwi, making us realise what a small dot we cast on the huge and impressive country.

Trolling thru Hispanic influenced outer settlements we arrived in Bakersfield, hopped in to some McDonalds shakes and wifi and located the nearby Honda Dealer and zipped around there to find they are on their Winter hours of Tues – Sat – HUH?

Snapped a nice room at a close Best Western Plus and wound down before strolling in the beautiful balmy early evening to suss out the Post Office, then a drink and nibbles.
We enjoyed a Mexican supper on the way home to finish a brilliant day and a nice sleep.

Monday 8th
We had planned to do some postage stuff this morning, so after our free brekkie at the Best Westie +, we scooted to the Post Office in central Bakersfield and dispatched some ‘excess baggage ‘home to Enzed. Then gassed up and cruised outta town on the now lighter Honda, off the Interstate, taking some back roads the Gps chose. An amazing contrast again today with yellow dry soil playing home to the lushest citrus trees – a real optical illusion almost. I see frequently small wind turbines amongst the tree groves – to pump irrigation water I guess.

It was a pretty h o t today, Jude feeding me ice cubes to suck and water. One ice cube stuck to my jeans and it soon melted spreading some extra coolness to my right leg, bliss in the 100F temps.
Visalia was as pretty as I remembered and we dined at Subway then off to EconoLodge where a nice room with good sized bed, wifi and breakfast cost us $60 + tax. Straight to the pool then a snooze (as it turned out) on the deck chair.

We headed off at 3pm to see the Sequoia National Park – me for the 2nd and Jude for the 1st time, but alas, the GPS took us 24 miles in the wrong direction to Porterville “Arriving at destination on right “Yeah Right!"

Bummer – 50 miles round trip just getting hotter – and it was a Garmin pre-set as well! They’ll be getting an e-mail about that! So back to the motel picking up a couple of beers on the way to chill and catch upon mail and planning and then a stroll to dinner, ZZZZZZZZZZZ.

Tuesday 9th Aug
We set out early to beat the heat and by 6.45 were burning gas outta town toward San Fran, - another stunning blue sky day, 66 degrees F, nice and cool. We had crunched nearly 100 miles by 0800 when we stopped in the tiny Chowchilla for brekkie at an ideal café. Coffee and bran and on the road again, gassing up nearby.

We were passing lots of hay trucks stacked high, more massive crops of everything from citrus to corn, and as we passed thru Fresno on the Interstate, huge huge yards of trucks and trailers for sale, and another of earthmoving machinery – as much as you could imagine.

After a climb up a 5 lane each way valley, topped by dozens of wind turbines waving at us, we descended into stop-start traffic. Some bikes passed us lane splitting – a GL1800, R1100S and others, but not for us country bumpkins…

Ms Garmin delivered us easily to Walnut Creek, a very pretty tree lined part of the City, where we booked in to a Super 6 Motel for 60 plus tax. Small room, but great spot and a nice pool.
While we were waiting for a room to become available (we were early) we had a snack at the Marriott next door. Along with the waiter, we both saw this luggage trolley, stacked high with luggage start to mysteriously move across the lobby – til we spotted this toddler pushing with all her might! What a crack up.

I was quickly ringing around for a Honda shop with a suitable tire, soon found one in nearby Concord, and we were off. Problem was, after being well behaved for days, the tire was flat again! I squirmed my way to a gas station 50M away collected Jude and we were off - making Contra Costa Powersports no problems. Time for a wander to the shops, a haircut and it was ready.

A quick dip in the pool then we were collected by some Kiwi Friends of Jude’s whom she last saw in 1984! A lovely Couple, Bruce and Charmaine really spoiled us with a dinkum barbeque in their lovely outdoor area, cheers Guys!

Wednesday and guess what? Another stunning day – this time we were jumping on the Train (Bart – Bay Area Rail Transport) near to the motel, and in to the big smoke. Less than 10 bucks return, awesome. You don’t need the worry of city riding when the system is as good as this.
A small walk in the wrong direction, eyes like saucers taking everything in, then back on navigational track to the waterfront.

Then another k or 2 to Pier 39 by which time it was after 11am and we were famished. Tigger took us in to Jude’s first Hard Rock Café, we shared an entrée and then wandered the very touristy village like pier.

We were keen on electric bikes but after lunch (which was breakfast also) we opted for a 2 hour double decker city tour for 20 bucks each – great value, and an excellent elevated spot from which to take photo’s.

Affording panoramic views from up top, and with a quirky commentary from the Russian Driver we loved San Fran and it’s amazing streets, homes, city buildings and the abundance of trees breaking it all up. Plenty of bike parking and lots of sickles also. Even spotted ((another) Hotel California too.
LOTS of walking today, so we rewarded ourselves, and Tigger with some 3 dollar beers in a swanky brasserie before pushing on back to BART.

An easy walk from BART to Walnut Creek Township, and a pub dinner of fish taco’s. Home and Jude was ZZZZZZZ zing before you could count to 10!’

[Rhys]

awesome

brilliant write up

that trip is on my bucket list

[STJim]

Loved the write up and the pictures
Cheers Jim

[shafty]

Thanks Yungatart, Rhys and STJim, I appreciate the feedback

Shafty

[Gremlin]

Enjoying the read shafty