Looking for a 2 stroke expert in Dunedin

[ducatilover]

I'll try find the one I have and take a pic tomorrow lol

[Henk]

Thermo housing should be bolted to the left hand side of the mount for the PV oil pump cable splitter box from memory.

[Fast Eddie]

it tis you can see it in one of the photos.. I like the aprilia setup. everythings easy to work on and get to. Its great.

[Ollie.T]

I have noticed my RS doesnt like sitting at low RPMs for any extended amount of time (so really thats anything below 6-7k rpms). It floods a cylinder and dies but starts up fine again in half an hour or so. Could be a carb issue (really i have no idea - Im talking out of my ass ) but my mate who had a rgv said his bike did the same. The guy before me hadn't ridden it much in the last year or so - riding it from wellington to christchurch and back seemed to clear out a few cobwebs, It seemed to run better after that.

This could be why your bike died at idle?

[Fast Eddie]

I have noticed my RS doesnt like sitting at low RPMs for any extended amount of time (so really thats anything below 6-7k rpms). It floods a cylinder and dies but starts up fine again in half an hour or so. Could be a carb issue (really i have no idea - Im talking out of my ass ) but my mate who had a rgv said his bike did the same. The guy before me hadn't ridden it much in the last year or so - riding it from wellington to christchurch and back seemed to clear out a few cobwebs, It seemed to run better after that.

This could be why your bike died at idle?

It is possible my bro, top cylinders plug was very fouled with oil. it didn't have a problem idling and running though. was nice and steady but then after bringing the revs up to almost 8,000, when i released throttle they only dropped to 3,000.. so i gave it another few blips trying to get it to go back down and then it died. There is a good chance one of the piston rings is gone or something. lost compression on one cyl. I couldn't get my fixed stem compression tester in there to test it.

we will see. im getting there, barrels will be off today and will have a look see inside.

will be cleaning carbs/exhaust valves and pretty much rebuilding it now anyway since its in bits.

STILL LOOKING FOR A COMP TESTER I CAN BORROW FOR HALF AN HOUR IN DUNEDIN, AND ANYONE WITH A BATTERY CHARGER THAT I CAN GIVE U MY BATT TO CHARGE FOR A WHILE OR LOAN ME THE CHARGER WILL BUY YA A 6 PACK

[Fast Eddie]

Sweet, forget the comp tester don't need it anymore managed to remove some more bits and get mine in there. And a local lad was kind enough to bring around a battery charger so all set! Nothing like doing shit on the cheap!

Top cylinder 110psi bang on on a dead cold engine.
Bottom cylinder 112psi bang on.. obv dead cold engine as well

So that looks all above board to me, couldn't find manufacturers specs anywhere and got tired of fucking around looking through forums. I think I saw 120 or 130psi when engine was hot. But can't be sure. I only trust real manufacturers specs.

Fired her up, it did fire up which was good. Plenty of smoke coming from both exhausts now Kind of tossing up if I should put her back together and take it for a thrash.. have adjusted the powervalves but have not removed for inspection.. Its a bit of a mission and I don't have an impact driver to undo the mounting screws etc.

Gonna go see where I can get distilled water from for the cooling system.. or could I make it myself by boiling/capturing steam and then collecting the steam/droplets?

[ducatilover]

or could I make it myself by boiling/capturing steam and then collecting the steam/droplets?

Woah, calm down Doc!

[Fast Eddie]

Woah, calm down Doc!

haha when u have no money u gotta get creative.. making a litre of it now.. it may take some time!

[F5 Dave]

Don't need distilled water in NZ, just add tap water & glycol mix.

Leave those power valves un-inspected to your own detriment. If they are about flogged out you will soon be stripping it fully down & by then finding the cylinder, piston & pvs totally rooted.

[Fast Eddie]

oh sweet, flagging the distilling of the water haha!

yea I will be pulling them out for inspection I just can't do it now as I don't have an impact driver and I can't get the screws undone. Already tried.

I sprayed heaps of WD-40 in both assemblies and let all the gunk and oil and shit drip out. did that a few times.. they look fairly clean.

have adjusted both exhaust valves so they line up with the correct fully closed, half open marks.

Is there any tell tale signs before they fail F5Dave? im just refilling the cooling system now and going to warm it up to do another comp. test and to check full operation of exhaust valves and to make sure they line up with the fully open marks - check to make sure they fully open. prob drop the exhausts off and get my finger in there too

[F5 Dave]

They can make a tinkling noise as they increase in travel & rub against the piston. or just let go with no warning as the rivet falls apart. Can get them recond if not too bad.

Impact driver should rush you $20 at superch or Ripco. Every motorcyclist should own one.

[Ollie.T]

Last compression test I ran on mine, it read about 140-145 PSI i think... This is about 5000km after a rebuild (if the previous owner rebuilt it when he said he did, he couldn't find receipts to show me...)

I have the Mk 1 RS250 - currently saving my spare change to send the forks up to the suspension fairy, Mr Taylor!

[F5 Dave]

those mk1 forks are supposed to be a bit miserable inside. no doubt he'll have some opinions.

I never trust compression readings on a 2 stroke. Different meters will give wildly different results. Maybe if you measure the ring end as good & then measure it & write down the numbers & use the same gauge to measure wear from there.

[Ollie.T]

those mk1 forks are supposed to be a bit miserable inside. no doubt he'll have some opinions.

I think he ALWAYS has opinions, right?

If you manage to get the P/V screws out with a impact driver, people recommend replacing them with allen key ones

http://www.thetuningworks.co.uk/stor...roducts_id=455

[Fast Eddie]

They can make a tinkling noise as they increase in travel & rub against the piston. or just let go with no warning as the rivet falls apart. Can get them recond if not too bad.

Impact driver should rush you $20 at superch or Ripco. Every motorcyclist should own one.

Cheers for that, will get myself an impact driver soon & pull them out and look. Judging by the rest of the bike I'll assume they are neglected and will need repair. Does this tinkling noise happens at low rpm as well? or just 8,000+ when they are opening up? This one is quiet as down low but after 8k rpm there was a bit of a noise which I didn't think should be there. this noise disappeared and came back intermittantly - I only got the bike last week and just took it for the quick test ride the day I got it around the neighbourhood. I thought the noise shouldnt be there so started the strip down down to look. Also looking at the powervalve cables they probably need to be replaced eh


seems strange that the ball ends should get so chewed up.

those mk1 forks are supposed to be a bit miserable inside. no doubt he'll have some opinions.

I never trust compression readings on a 2 stroke. Different meters will give wildly different results. Maybe if you measure the ring end as good & then measure it & write down the numbers & use the same gauge to measure wear from there.

nah, I'm not that fussed on the actual read outs anyway - I just wanted to see if they both displayed the same psi on the gauge and they do as I was wondering why only 1 cyl was firing - thought 1 might have lost compression. But compression test showed both had compression at least.. read 110psi on the guage and after cleaning the plugs up they both fire now.. Still running rough though. Carb clean etc next and a far bit of exhaust valve work.

haha the front suspension is wierd on these eh? 1 fork adjusts for compression or damping or something and the other fork adjusts for rebound? or something like that? seems so wierd. every other bike I've had the forks have been symetrical with both having adjustmenst for rebound/damping etc this is the first bike ive come across where both forks are different and serve different functions.