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Thread: Race chassis

  1. #316
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    20th January 2010 - 14:41
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    Ok another sunday Monocoque

    This time much more prettier.

    Double or nothing a point each for the
    Make of engine.......
    The model of engine..
    The cc.
    The creator of the bike.
    Hint it is a Suzuki twin

    Quote Originally Posted by koba View Post
    No they aren't, I'm yet to see an aircraft held together with duct-tape and cable ties!
    Have a look at the wiring harness.......



    Mythbuster's have done two ok planes with ductap. One was not so great a flyer but it was a Macgyver design but the other one was ok
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    Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken

  2. #317
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    4th August 2007 - 17:55
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    NSR300 F3, ME BUCKET
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    Drive line.

    K Question for the people that have done this before. Pivot drive shaft position. What I am doing. At 25 mm rider squat the axel centre swing-arm centre and drive shaft centre are in perfect alignment. Good to go? Or is there something else to consider?

    TA

  3. #318
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    13th June 2010 - 17:47
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    That should work OK Rich - but won't you get tired squatting 25mm permanently ?

    I assume (probably wrongly...) that you meant with 25mm of laden sag....For a small bike that's plenty IMO.

  4. #319
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    4th August 2007 - 17:55
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    double post opps

  5. #320
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grumph View Post
    That should work OK Rich - but won't you get tired squatting 25mm permanently ?

    I assume (probably wrongly...) that you meant with 25mm of laden sag....For a small bike that's plenty IMO.
    I have very strong thigh mussels. Yeh I meant rider sag Laden sag lard sag. Cheers. I think my FXR used to run around 22mm. Also measured the rake out of interest and it is sitting at 23 degrees after the wheel change. If I raise the back 10mm it will sit at 22.5. Will do a trail measurement when I have another pair of hands.

    Out of interest what would you recommend for a small bikes Laden sag?

  6. #321
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    I think you're pretty much in the ballpark but it depends on how much travel you've got to play with and how sophisticated your damping.
    The more trick you get, the more you've got to keep tabs on and the more often you've got to change springs etc to suit different tracks. IMO for a bucket, a good base setting which will work on big and small tracks is desirable but until you've got it built and running you won't know if you're close.
    I'm personally reluctant to use very "modern" trail figures on very small and light bikes. Dahn here they're on big tracks and a bit of high speed stability is quite nice...Even 100mm of trail and 26deg rake is quick steering on a very light bike.

  7. #322
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grumph View Post
    I think you're pretty much in the ballpark but it depends on how much travel you've got to play with and how sophisticated your damping.
    The more trick you get, the more you've got to keep tabs on and the more often you've got to change springs etc to suit different tracks. IMO for a bucket, a good base setting which will work on big and small tracks is desirable but until you've got it built and running you won't know if you're close.
    I'm personally reluctant to use very "modern" trail figures on very small and light bikes. Dahn here they're on big tracks and a bit of high speed stability is quite nice...Even 100mm of trail and 26deg rake is quick steering on a very light bike.
    Yep the more buttons you have the more you push them. I am expecting the NSR to handle very similar to the FXR and that was good on long and short tracks. At speed it was a little slow to tip in but on the whole it was good. I am milling swing arm axel slots to give a lots of wheel base options as the NSR is a bit long. So quite happy with 23 degrees and 85mm at the front and about 60mm of movement in the rear for wheel base. Thats about as far as I will go till its going round a track. Also what you don't know won't hurt you. If its better than the FXR it will most likely get ridded till something breaks then made better.

  8. #323
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    25th March 2004 - 17:22
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    I try run 23 degs on the RS based stuff (actually I canted my YZFSP to 23.5 & my 500). Any more than that & you're entering sketchy ground.
    Don't you look at my accountant.
    He's the only one I've got.

  9. #324
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    Quote Originally Posted by F5 Dave View Post
    I try run 23 degs on the RS based stuff (actually I canted my YZFSP to 23.5 & my 500). Any more than that & you're entering sketchy ground.
    Good to know. To measure the angle I used a free sprit level app for my phone. Simply calibrate it on a proper level and she is good to go. Gives you a sprit level bubble and a degree digital read out. Place phone on stanchion and look at phone. Perfect for a dyslexic chap like myself.

  10. #325
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    heavens. -Bloody teenagers!

    I just used a long piece of skinny shower rail with a hole in the bottom attached to a piece of ply with some hand scribed degree lines transferred from my large timing wheel. Has to be as long as the forks to get it spot on.
    Don't you look at my accountant.
    He's the only one I've got.

  11. #326
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    Quote Originally Posted by F5 Dave View Post
    heavens. -Bloody teenagers!

    I just used a long piece of skinny shower rail with a hole in the bottom attached to a piece of ply with some hand scribed degree lines transferred from my large timing wheel. Has to be as long as the forks to get it spot on.
    Also using it to get the engine angle correct. Sit on top of engine jack up till 26 degrees job done. Bloody love it.

  12. #327
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    20th January 2010 - 14:41
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    Quote Originally Posted by richban View Post
    I have very strong thigh mussels. Yeh I meant rider sag Laden sag lard sag. Cheers. I think my FXR used to run around 22mm. Also measured the rake out of interest and it is sitting at 23 degrees after the wheel change. If I raise the back 10mm it will sit at 22.5. Will do a trail measurement when I have another pair of hands.

    Out of interest what would you recommend for a small bikes Laden sag?
    The trail can be calculated with your new Head angle and your old trail its in one of my posts on this thread and or on the ESE.
    You can then put the formula into your Iphone if you must
    Quote Originally Posted by husaberg View Post
    A bridge to far perhaps 18 deg and 75mm Frits was at 20 and 85mm ish wasn't it?
    Sure it will turn sharp at those figures.so sharp it will probably make you bleed. LOL
    But why not start out a little more conservative. 20-22 deg and 85-95mm.

    The trail is also a result of the fork offset remember.
    That why i mentioned the trailbike yoke to get the offset around to ballpark with the increase rake.

    Have a look at the simple rake trail calculators on the Foale site.http://www.tonyfoale.com/ under freeware

    And Gee no takers on the Monocoque Bike question come on Greg & Warwick.



    Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken

  13. #328
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    Quote Originally Posted by husaberg View Post

    And Gee no takers on the Monocoque Bike question come on Greg & Warwick.
    Don't recognise it, can't be arsed searching, too busy.....

  14. #329
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    Oh yeah I was going to say when you're at that steep an angle they can verge on unstable depending on trail, front suspension quality & a bunch of other things. my 750 with new pistons cartridge work was a peach, one twitch in the rough & would forget it ever happened.

    I saw DiPs RS fitted with steering dampers & laughed. That was at Taupo old cct & going down the hill/connection bit I got a bit off line & reconsidered (rapidly & many times). My 100 has a damper now, but don't need it at Kaitoke. Mt wgtn likely would.
    Don't you look at my accountant.
    He's the only one I've got.

  15. #330
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    4th August 2007 - 17:55
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    Love This Guy

    Amazing bike build. Just amazing what this guy does on the project. A shit load of billet ends up in the bin.

    http://www.2t-special.it/forum/viewt...t=498&start=20


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