I need camera advice

[NordieBoy]

DSLR's are good. I use a Cannon 400D. Its a good entry level one that I mainly brought for when i go skydiving. I fly as cameraman for the lads sometimes but mainly for tandems.

The Canon 1000D is nice and cheap. Its also alot lighter than other modles. By memory i think it is 10.5Mp. What they have done with this modle is to cut out all the real in depth custom settings. You can still change the TV,AV etc and it still has the good old portrait,sceneic or sports presets.

One of the reasons they are better than the P&S's is because of the lens. a 35mm lens will always out perform a lil guy especially in low light conditions.

I could go on for hours, PM me if you require further info but i would start looking at Canon 1000D's

Better living

I wouldn't even consider a dSLR for adventure riding type photography if you're at all prone to falling off...

[Harry the Barstard]

Actually im running a 450D........but anyway.

Someone raised a good point on how much room they take up. For sure, i have a backpack full of other lens, filters, cleaning equipment chargers etc. But when i take it out skydiving or to a wedding or something i brought a small padded cover the same shape as the camera, if your only going to need it for a day or two, that will be fine. Padded is good too because you dont want to rattle the sh!t out of it when your riding along.

A few points you raised that you are not happy with, with regard to your current cameras performance.

Missing bikers as they zoom past: A DSLR will have a shutter speed of at least 3fps (frames per second), 1000D is maybe 3.5? or maybe thats my 450D?.... anyway, A fast shutter speed is what you need to capture any fast moving object, but secondly a fast shutter speed will ensure that the captured image is crisp and not blury. 3fs is fine

Slow start up: You may be able to mess around with your setting on that one. I had a fuji finepix that got binned after the DSLR put it to shame. You could however go into the cameras setting and select that the camera didnt make sounds and little startup images to spped up the process

Pic quality in low light: The main cure for that is again shutter speed. The slower the shutter speed the more light that will be let in to brighten the image (simplified version). But if you want to take a pic of a fast moving object in low light you can only realy compinsate for this with a bigger lens. The bigger lens will take more light in while maintain a fast shutter speed to capture a crisp image of that fast moving object.

It all sound pretty techy and bot worth the hasstle to start with. But they are great and after you have played around with it, you can get some amazing shots. The automatic presets will get you producing great quality pics untill you get your head around the custom settings.

Good luck

[misterO]

I make a living with a camera so here's my advice: Technique does go a long way to getting the shot. You may not even need to buy a new camera. Start by holding your camera with both hands and keep your elbows tight against your body- this will give you a more stable shooting platform. Don't stab at the shutter button, press it gently. If you want to capture bikes in motion use the panning technique- keep the bike in the center of the frame and follow it as it goes by- gently press the shutter button and follow through as the rider goes past you. When shooting while panning, keep the button pressed down so that it takes several photos as you follow the action- chances are at least one shot will be good. One key thing to remember (that most point and shoot camera users don't seem to understand) is that pressing the shutter button halfway makes it focus, pressing all the way takes the photo. Most users seem to skip past the halfway point and just stab the button all the way every time (and then wonder why the photo doesn't look good). I press halfway to lock on focus and hold it there till "the moment" comes, then I press it all the way. Another effective element to capturing motion is using what's called a fast lens (perhaps this is what people have been suggesting by "big lens", perhaps not). A fast lens allows a wider aperture which lets in more light and that delivers a faster shutter speed. You don't need to spend a fortune to get a fast lens- my Canon S90 goes down to f/2 and I find that's plenty fast for capturing motion (and also getting the shot in low light). Image stabilization is nice, but it won't help you capture motion like a fast lens does. More megapixels is not the answer. Another way to increase shutter speed is to increase the ISO. Using the flash (even in daylight) works well for stopping moving subjects, too. I genuinely hope that some of this helped you. For more info you might try reading up at Ken Rockwell's site (Ken is an opinionated guy and I don't agree with everything he says but so much of it is spot-on-target that it's worth a look): http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech.htm

[BMWST?]

I make a living with a camera so here's my advice: Technique does go a long way to getting the shot. You may not even need to buy a new camera. Start by holding your camera with both hands and keep your elbows tight against your body- this will give you a more stable shooting platform. Don't stab at the shutter button, press it gently. If you want to capture bikes in motion use the panning technique- keep the bike in the center of the frame and follow it as it goes by- gently press the shutter button and follow through as the rider goes past you. One key thing to remember (that most point and shoot camera users don't seem to understand) is that pressing the shutter button halfway makes it focus, pressing all the way takes the photo. Most users seem to skip past the halfway point and just stab the button all the way every time (and then wonder why the photo doesn't look good). I press halfway to lock on focus and hold it there till "the moment" comes, then I press it all the way. Another effective element to capturing motion is using what's called a fast lens (perhaps this is what people have been suggesting by "big lens", perhaps not). A fast lens allows a wider aperture which lets in more light and that delivers a faster shutter speed. You don't need to spend a fortune to get a fast lens- my Canon S90 goes down to f/2 and I find that's plenty fast for capturing motion (and also getting the shot in low light). Image stabilization is nice, but it won't help you capture motion like a fast lens does. More megapixels are not the answer. Another way to increase shutter speed is to increase the ISO. Using the flash (even in daylight) works well for stopping moving subjects, too. Hope some of this helped. For more info you might try reading up at Ken Rockwell's site (Ken is an opinionated guy and I don't agree with everything he says but so much of it is spot-on-target that it's worth a look): http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech.htm

most point and shoots dont have the ability to manipulate shutter/aperture tho do they?Holding the shutter halfway down locks the focus on a particular spot or does it lock onto the object framed within the temporary "frame" on the display?

[roadkillnz]

It's good advice, I also own a 450D, they're a great camera.
Though I just want to to clarify a point,
Shutter speed is not the number for photos it can take / second. That's the shots / second, for frame rate. But I definitely agree, having a high frame-rate camera helps.

But as you also said... a fast shutter-speed is good for getting a crisp photo, as the shutter-speed refers to how long the photo is exposed for.


Probably going a bit off topic anyhow.

As for recommendation for the OP, even some of the P&S systems nowadays have impressive high-ISO, and frame-rate capabilities, and minimal shutterlag. So if a DSLR or mirrorless system was outside of your budget, then take a look at some of the P&S offerings.

Check out DPReview, they have some great indepth reviews, or you can go to the conclusion page to get their outright verdict and summary.

http://www.dpreview.com/

Cheers
Troy

Actually im running a 450D........but anyway.

Someone raised a good point on how much room they take up. For sure, i have a backpack full of other lens, filters, cleaning equipment chargers etc. But when i take it out skydiving or to a wedding or something i brought a small padded cover the same shape as the camera, if your only going to need it for a day or two, that will be fine. Padded is good too because you dont want to rattle the sh!t out of it when your riding along.

A few points you raised that you are not happy with, with regard to your current cameras performance.

Missing bikers as they zoom past: A DSLR will have a shutter speed of at least 3fps (frames per second), 1000D is maybe 3.5? or maybe thats my 450D?.... anyway, A fast shutter speed is what you need to capture any fast moving object, but secondly a fast shutter speed will ensure that the captured image is crisp and not blury. 3fs is fine

Slow start up: You may be able to mess around with your setting on that one. I had a fuji finepix that got binned after the DSLR put it to shame. You could however go into the cameras setting and select that the camera didnt make sounds and little startup images to spped up the process

Pic quality in low light: The main cure for that is again shutter speed. The slower the shutter speed the more light that will be let in to brighten the image (simplified version). But if you want to take a pic of a fast moving object in low light you can only realy compinsate for this with a bigger lens. The bigger lens will take more light in while maintain a fast shutter speed to capture a crisp image of that fast moving object.

It all sound pretty techy and bot worth the hasstle to start with. But they are great and after you have played around with it, you can get some amazing shots. The automatic presets will get you producing great quality pics untill you get your head around the custom settings.

Good luck

[roadkillnz]

Very dependant on the intended market on the camera, but you'll find heaps of the point and shoots do support the ability to change shutter-speed and aperture, or both (manual).
Just double check on the camera site. Or if there's a specific camera model you're looking at getting, PM me, or post it up on this forum, and I'm happy to look over it for you if you'd like.

most point and shoots dont have the ability to manipulate shutter/aperture tho do they?Holding the shutter halfway down locks the focus on a particular spot or does it lock onto the object framed within the temporary "frame" on the display?

[NordieBoy]

I make a living with a camera so here's my advice: Technique does go a long way to getting the shot. You may not even need to buy a new camera. Start by holding your camera with both hands and keep your elbows tight against your body- this will give you a more stable shooting platform. Don't stab at the shutter button, press it gently.

But then you'd have to stop, to take photos.

Weird.

[george formby]

I've got a Canon 400D, and I actually stopped taking it on rides, as it was bulky, I had two lenses, plus filters, to take the entire kit, it has an actual backpack for the gear. Takes up far too much space, but does take very good pictures. Since I never had it on me however, I missed out on the unique stuff.

I ended up buying a Sony P&S (http://store.sony.com/webapp/wcs/sto...umber=DSCTX5/B), it actually has the same 10MP (obviously won't come close to the swappable lenses) but has a panoramic mode (instead of stitching shots together later) and is waterproof, shockproof, freezeproof and dustproof.

Bought it via parallel, not as expensive as shops, but it's small size means I carry it far more often and the touch screen is a better option for using with gloves.

+1 on the Sony. I have the first model they brought out in that style, a mere 6mp. It's still going strong, great battery life, steel housing so it just sits in my pocket, very quick to start just flip down the front, aim & fire. Admittedly compared to more modern cameras I can only say the quality of photos has gone from great to adequate. The Nexus looks sminky..

[Harry the Barstard]

It's good advice, I also own a 450D, they're a great camera.
Though I just want to to clarify a point,
Shutter speed is not the number for photos it can take / second. That's the shots / second, for frame rate. But I definitely agree, having a high frame-rate camera helps.

But as you also said... a fast shutter-speed is good for getting a crisp photo, as the shutter-speed refers to how long the photo is exposed for.


Probably going a bit off topic anyhow.

As for recommendation for the OP, even some of the P&S systems nowadays have impressive high-ISO, and frame-rate capabilities, and minimal shutterlag. So if a DSLR or mirrorless system was outside of your budget, then take a look at some of the P&S offerings.

Check out DPReview, they have some great indepth reviews, or you can go to the conclusion page to get their outright verdict and summary.

http://www.dpreview.com/

Cheers
Troy

Well spotted troy,

I was pre second cup of coffe when i wrote that....... my bad

Your FPS is the number of pics your camera will take and your shutter speed is the speed that the sutter will open and close.

I had to take my wife to a shopping mall today (icon with a smiley face eating a shotgun required), but i poped into the kodak shop for a wee nosey. Those point and shoot guys with the bigger lens could be a nice compromise between the DSLR and more traditional point and shoot. I suppose it depends on what other events you will use it for. I take my DSLR everywhere and constantly produce better pics than my mates, but too i have to lug it around.

Its all horses for courses...... and how many clams you want to spend.

I'm sure we have done a bang up job of making your descion harder for you.... ahhh, job done.

[BMWST?]

Very dependant on the intended market on the camera, but you'll find heaps of the point and shoots do support the ability to change shutter-speed and aperture, or both (manual).
Just double check on the camera site. Or if there's a specific camera model you're looking at getting, PM me, or post it up on this forum, and I'm happy to look over it for you if you'd like.

like to point out a couple of p&S that do have shutter/apeture control?...to the point that you could say take a 5 sec night shot to get the long trails of headlights or a shot where its nearly pitch black?.I have a older canon ixus 65 its speed and pic quality are fine but there is very limited control of shutter or apeture

[misterO]

LMGTFY

Canon PowerShot S90, S95 and S100
Fujifilm FinePix F600EXR
Olympus XZ-1
Panasonic Lumix DMC-LX5
Samsung TL500

...To name a few.

[roadkillnz]

misterO pointed out a few.
If there's a specific model that you're wanting to know about, if you look at it's spec sheet on a site like DPReview, look for the section that lists the shooting modes... and look specifically for
Shutter priority AE
Aperture priority AE
Manual

The first two are what give you control on shutter speed, and aperture. Though they may be abbreviated to Av and Tv on some spec sheets.
Manual gives you manual control of both settings at the same time.

like to point out a couple of p&S that do have shutter/apeture control?...to the point that you could say take a 5 sec night shot to get the long trails of headlights or a shot where its nearly pitch black?.I have a older canon ixus 65 its speed and pic quality are fine but there is very limited control of shutter or apeture

[Swoop]

I'm heading doen the canon path I think as they seem to have a good feedback.

http://www.jbhifi.com.au/photo/digit...era-sku-61278/

A camera that fits into a jacket pocket, with high megapixel qualities (clarity, ability to clean and edit an image) and a good zoom-ability was what I was looking for. I purchased the previous version of this little beauty from Canon (only 10 Mp + 10x zoom) and have not regretted it at all.
It also has a full manual controls that other cameras fail to include.
Having grown up with a fully manual 35mm SLR, I am only now looking at getting a "proper" digital SLR, but do not want all the associated crap to lug around on the bike. This camera does all I wish to do.

[NordieBoy]

I mainly use my little Olympus 1030SW 10m waterproof, 10Mp jobbie I got in 2009.
If the weather is going to be good and I'm just cruising, knowing there's some good scenery, I'll take the EOS 20D with a 28-70 f2.8 lens.
It's the one I use when photographing x-country races too. Been roosted many times and still ticking...


Nope. Embedded is much easier

[MotoGirl]

I have owned two cameras for the past few years and what you need really depends on two factors: what you're going to use it for and how much stuff you want to lug around. I like having control over my camera's settings to have a point and shoot with all the manual functions and a large optical zoom. This guy is small enough to fit in my pocket so it comes along on any bike rides. When I'm going somewhere in the car and space is a luxury, the full-blown SLR and lenses come along for the ride. Once you get into SLR land, the hardest thing will be deciding which lenses and accessories to take when you have limited space!