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Thread: Chain tensioner lock nuts

  1. #1
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    13th December 2008 - 18:22
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    Chain tensioner lock nuts

    The chain tensioner lock nuts have become rounded off on my bike because it's impossible to get a ring spanner in there, and using an open ended spanner has rounded them off to the point that they can't even be adjusted any more. I'm after some high quality nuts made from a very hard metal, so is stainless steel the way to go? Or is there a better metal for them? Also, where is a good place to go in Christchurch that sells some nuts which aren't going to become rounded off after a few adjustments?

    I'm happy to pay a bit extra rather than risk buying cheap ones from a hardware store.

  2. #2
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    Hard nuts is a thing money can't buy...

    you just got 'em or you don't...

  3. #3
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    20th November 2005 - 22:24
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    Never seen that happen to chain adjusters on any bike I've owned. Are you sure you're doing it right?
    Loosen Axle.
    Loosen outer nut.
    Adjust inner nut.
    Tighten outer nut.
    Put a small bar (I use Top of T on small T-bar tool) between chain and rear sprocket and roll wheel a little to make chain tight over the bar to keep adjusters tight and in place while tightening axle.
    Release small bar.
    Check chain tension and that adjusters have stayed in place with nuts staying locked.
    Done.

    Unless you have sloppy fitting tools (which they will be now you have rounded nuts) or the whole lot has been over tightened or rusted in place there should be no problem.
    Open ended spanners is all I ever use on the adjuster nuts.

    Can probably get new nuts from somewhere like 'Blacks Fasteners' but there could be minimum charges for small purchases at some places.
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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Transalper View Post
    Never seen that happen to chain adjusters on any bike I've owned. Are you sure you're doing it right?
    They were rounded off when I bought the bike.

    I can't even loosen the rear axle nut because I need a 36mm spanner and I don't have one. They're bloody expensive to buy as well.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by SMOKEU View Post
    They were rounded off when I bought the bike.

    I can't even loosen the rear axle nut because I need a 36mm spanner and I don't have one. They're bloody expensive to buy as well.
    Yep, but don't even try adjusting the chain adjusters without loosening the Axle nut first.
    Vice grips will probably get the old rounded nuts off but I'm not even sure what bike we are talking about here.
    You going to have to get one (or a big crescent not as good) sometime if you plan to do much work yourself.
    I have a 24mm one from the Zeta stand with a tyre leaver spoon on the other end suits my bikes. Think the ball park price was $20 to $30 but I've had it for a while and obviously smaller than 36mm so...

    36mm is bigger than anything in my garage.
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by SMOKEU View Post
    They were rounded off when I bought the bike.

    I can't even loosen the rear axle nut because I need a 36mm spanner and I don't have one. They're bloody expensive to buy as well.
    Buy one 36mm socket and use it with your socket-set - you do have a 1/2" drive socket set?

    And IF people have been tightening the chain without undoing the axle nut I'm not surprised about the condition of the nuts.
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  7. #7
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    The nuts he is referring to is the locking nuts that press up tightly against the swingarm itself. So these nuts are sometimes reluctant to move, and undoing the axle nut has no part in it whatsoever (although is obviously required to adjust the chain). Try George Henry and Co Chris, I know they sell good quality tools, not so sure about actual nuts and bolts but if they don't they will be able to recommend someone. Also try Nuts, Bolts and Screws. Should find them in the phone book.

  8. #8
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    All sorted now. A 36mm socket is $19 and the 36mm ring spanners are $39. Bloody expensive. I don't have a 1/2" ratchet either so I had to borrow some tools to do the job.

  9. #9
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    If you buy a 36mm spanner or socket (and why wouldn't you), consider CAREFULLY grinding a little bit off the end of it, or have it machined off. The reason is usually those nuts are very narrow, and if you look at the inside of the spanner or the socket, the bottom part of it is slightly rounded by 1 or 2mm: if your nut is the same, the mating and driving surface can be quite small. (I'm not sure thats clear, but can you see what I mean?)
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by HenryDorsetCase View Post
    If you buy a 36mm spanner or socket (and why wouldn't you), consider CAREFULLY grinding a little bit off the end of it, or have it machined off. The reason is usually those nuts are very narrow, and if you look at the inside of the spanner or the socket, the bottom part of it is slightly rounded by 1 or 2mm: if your nut is the same, the mating and driving surface can be quite small. (I'm not sure thats clear, but can you see what I mean?)

    Oh, and I would go see Blacks on Gasson Street.
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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by HenryDorsetCase View Post
    If you buy a 36mm spanner or socket (and why wouldn't you), consider CAREFULLY grinding a little bit off the end of it, or have it machined off. The reason is usually those nuts are very narrow, and if you look at the inside of the spanner or the socket, the bottom part of it is slightly rounded by 1 or 2mm: if your nut is the same, the mating and driving surface can be quite small. (I'm not sure thats clear, but can you see what I mean?)
    +1. Exactly what I did to my 36mm socket, for that very reason. Ground about 3mm off on a surface grinder. Luckily I work in a top end machine shop and have access to most types of machines, so not a biggie for me.
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