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Thread: Heat paint

  1. #16
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    24th June 2004 - 17:27
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    In my limited experience the heat paints seem to be slightly better quality. There are 2 sorts. Hi temp for headers etc and engine enamel which is just OK for mufflers. Yeah - they work better once they have been heat cycled.

    Using std plasticote 'enamel' rattle cans and hoping for a decent finish is a bit hit n miss. Some cans just come with shitty nozzles….

    What we used to do was shake the fuck out of them and sit them in warm water for a few minutes (not too hot or too long) to thin the paint a little and increase pressure in the can.

    The acrylic lacquer paint you can buy is generally better but you need the whole ‘system’ and it’s fussier about atmospherics. Gives a better gloss if you get it right though plus you can get a bigger range of colours and some places used to mix it up to order.

    I just use a cheapo compressor and spray gun to shoot lacquer. It’s a lot cheaper.

  2. #17
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    3rd October 2004 - 17:35
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    Quote Originally Posted by nodrog View Post
    why not?

    ____
    plastic melts...
    Then I could get a Kb Tshirt, move to Timaru and become a full time crossdressing faggot

  3. #18
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    27th February 2005 - 08:47
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    Quote Originally Posted by renegade master View Post
    plastic melts...
    thanks for that, I have some ABS in the oven at 80 degrees, been in there for a couple of hours, I better go check to see if its melted.

  4. #19
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    26th February 2007 - 23:15
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    Looking a bit like the heat paint is going to be too fragile on anything that can't be baked.

    Just put a 2nd coat of clear on a piece, and looks like the clear is turning the heat paint into something of a paste. Will know in the morning when I give it the tiniest bit of sanding.

    I suspect back to the drawing board, to find the colors and appropriate paint.



    My side mount license plate has turned up fairly good, as far as a home job is concerned. 3 coats of etch primer, 3 coats of matte stencil black, and 3 coats of clear.
    Find out more at www.unluckyones.co.nz

  5. #20
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    26th February 2007 - 23:15
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    After letting the two items dry overnight, quite clearly the heat paint with clear coat ends up much like a soft plastic paste over the metal. By comparison, the side mount plate done the same but colored with black stencil paint, can be scuffed but is by far a better finish.

    So rethinking the entire paint job. Nearly worked it all out.

    Ta for suggestions previously posted.
    Find out more at www.unluckyones.co.nz

  6. #21
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    25th September 2011 - 10:52
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    im sure this is nothing new, but I get paint matched down here in dunners by a place called.. Color.. something haha, not important anyway - they will take a panel that is in the color u want or take some of the paint from the heat can ur using and they will match it pretty damn good, and they will give the paint matched paint to u in a spray can as well or in a pot. whatever u want. and best bit is its not too expensive, think it was 20- 25 bucks for a color matched spray can

  7. #22
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    26th February 2007 - 23:15
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    Ah, I've moved on. I only wanted to know about the heat paint as I was going to paint engine covers.

    Have now attacked the engine with sandpaper, emery and scotch brite.

    Starting to look like an old school iron cast engine I reckon.

    Using everyday normal blue spray paint for the tins.
    Find out more at www.unluckyones.co.nz

  8. #23
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    9th October 2008 - 15:52
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Lone Rider View Post
    Everything I've read is that powedercoat on wheels is shite and chips and comes apart. We have lots of powdercoated kit at work, and one ding and it's all fucked.

    I don't intend on getting petrol onto the tank, but I would have thought bog, under coat, color coat, and clear coat would have protected it as much as any other tank.

    And you don't address the use of heat paint.
    I dont really understand why powdercoated wheels at 220degr which is the same process as factory oem ally wheels isnt going to work but rattle cans is.Heat paint and enam wont cure without being baked.If it doesnt cure and you add to it it will melt and the 2 will try mix into each other.

    automan6 is a painter and has done plenty of bikes he will have all the answers if your doing your own work.He did my race bike for me.
    Hes not on alot but a pm will reach his email.
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    I have evolved as a KB member.Now nothing I say should be taken seriously.

  9. #24
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    12th January 2004 - 12:00
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    Quote Originally Posted by mossy1200 View Post
    I dont really understand why powdercoated wheels at 220degr which is the same process as factory oem
    Because it isn't how they're done at the factory, it is paint, not powdercoat, that's why they don't have all the paint fall off in big chunks after they get chipped like powder does. And paint is only baked at 70 deg.

    As for the idea of using heat paint, the biggest issue is that it isn't compatible with primers/clears as it's designed to work without them.
    Drew for Prime Minister!

    www.oldskoolperformance.com

    www.prospeedmc.com for parts ex U.S.A ( He's a Kiwi! )

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