If so, how do I do it?
Is it simply rewiring the socket to our 3-pin, or do I have to repace the batten holder bit?
Chur.
If so, how do I do it?
Is it simply rewiring the socket to our 3-pin, or do I have to repace the batten holder bit?
Chur.
Don't they use 110volts instead of 220?
change the bulb to a 230v. Change the plug (best option) or US parallel blades can be twisted a little to fit the NZ sockets (no doubt illegal)
it's not a bad thing till you throw a KLR into the mix.
those cheap ass bitches can do anything with ductape.
(PostalDave on ADVrider)
Look under the bottom of the lamp, where it states what volts and amps it accepts as input. If it has 110-240V, it means it's dual voltage and can run on both. If it doesn't, you'd require a transformer.
Bear in mind, the USA uses 110V, NZ uses 220-240V. Different plugs, so you'd have to change them regardless.
Originally Posted by Jane Omorogbe from UK MSN on the KTM990SM
Thanks!
.....
The one other thing I'm not sure about (and afaik), is there is a reason for the 3 vs 2 pin layout. 110V are delivered on each pin, so USA has one for that and one for earth. NZ naturally has 2 pins for voltage, then one for earth. I think?
I only know this much because I travelled to USA and being in IT, having power there was imperative for laptop etc.
Originally Posted by Jane Omorogbe from UK MSN on the KTM990SM
more clown words.
If the lampholder part has the same size fitting as bulbs available in nz and if it's labelled suitable for 250volts it's usable, check the cable that's more important as that needs to be rated to 250volts too, any less and it doesn't necessarily have the strength of insulation to take our voltage.
if it isn't rated assume it's not suitable, companies aren't in the habit of using the next size up just to be nice
replace the plug, pete's advice may have been well meaning but while your light may work stuffing a twisted plug into a socket will damage the socket so when you do decide to plug something in with higher current draw, like a heater, there maybe a hot spot and may lead to a fire.
Not sure whether USA has the MEN distribution system, here if it is a steel fitting it also needs to be earthed, requiring the third pin on the plug, unless it's double insulated (there'll be a logo on it if it is google to find an image, usually a box within a box line drawn)
Advice from registered electrician
If the lamp holder is edison screw type you must confirm the centre pin is the live side of the NZ 3 pin plug that you fit to it.
When looking into the socket on a wall it is the top left hole.The neutral is the top right.If the lamp has exposed metal parts that may become alive by a broken wire then it must have a earth electrode connected to the plug and a 3 core flex.IE the lamp holder is brass.
If there is a inline cord switch you must also confirn that the live wire is switched and not the neutral wire or both are switched.This can be done with a multi meter from the edison screw centre pin to the live conductor on the plug.
Wire size will not ba a issue as 110volt is double the current due to be half the voltage so the cables will be twice the required size and not undersized.You must of course be using a 230 volt lamp in it.
I have evolved as a KB member.Now nothing I say should be taken seriously.
Or just flick it on Trademe ... let it be somebody else's problem.
When life throws you a curve ... Lean into it ...
I cant ever remember seeing a lamp cord under .5mm and the lamp holder should match if edison screw as osram lamps have same thread type as philips etc being E27.The only american lamp holder that dont match what we have are some of the early metal halide and mercury vapour flood light bulbs.The biggest issue is the correct polarity as the cord most likely has both conductors(live and neutral)in black rather than red and black or brown and blue like we are used to seeing.This is because american plugs can be inserted either way up into the plug if the appliance is a 2 pin or double insulated type.
My avatar pic is the double insulated symbol but its not likely to be on the lamp.
Certification of appliance in New Zealand is a joke due to the deregulation of the industry.If a electrician installs an item he has now certified it as being compliant but a home owner can do whatever he chooses as long as it is not for payment by others.The only down side is insurance can refuse a claim if the injury or damage is proven to have been the homeowners fault.
Dont bend pins as that will leave your insurance null and void if ever you have a issue caused by the lamp for sure.
I have evolved as a KB member.Now nothing I say should be taken seriously.
doesn't matter what diameter the wire is it still needs to be rated to carry 240 volts whether it's 1 ampere or 100 amperes, voltage is the 'pressure' of the power supply and 240volt is over twice the 'pressure' of 110 and needs to be rated accordingly otherwise it's not got the correctly rated insulation
mr usarka I'm in the hutt valley if you want to show me it i'll tell ya whether it's right or not.
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