Hyosung GT250R clock repair

[mellowyellow]

seems i have been sucessful in repairing my clock on the digital display of the GT250R.
my issue was.... i could set the clock but when i switch off the kay and switch it back on again, the clock would reset to 12:00. the repair is easy, you just need to know how to carefully solder and use a screwdriver. if you have the parts needed, probably take about 1-2 hrs.

reason for the fault is, hyosung decided not to connect the clock to a 24hr feed back to the main bike battery. so they soldered a tiny CR927 lithium battery to the speedo pcb. not a bad idea if they made the battery easy to replace
with the key off, the battery keeps the time, key on and bike battery kicks in. so if you dont ride your bike alot, the battery will die faster....no big issue. an almost dead battery may also cause issues with how accurate your clock is, so if you find you need to change the time alot, try replacing the battery.

parts needed:
solder and soldering iron
CR1620 pcb mount battery
heatshrink to insulate pcb pin tails on battery
heat shrink to cover entire battery
0.25mm appliance wire, red and black 150mm long will be more than enough.
philips screwdriver
allen key set
cresent
magnet on a stick.

how to:
make sure the keys are off and in your pocket.
remove the windsheild to expose the digital speedo
undo the 3 screes holding the speedo mount
disconnect the wiring plug and the nuts holding the mount to the rear or the speedo
leave the three cables screwed behind the tacho, no need to touch these.

undo the 4 screws behind the speedo, around the wiring plug

becareful with the following instructions
undo the 6 outer screws to open the front of the casing
the speedo is loose, dont drop it, dont tap it against anything, this is expensive to replace.
carefully place it on a clean work bench
being careful of the glass display, separate the top from the bottom. there are 4 screws holding the two together.

place the top display PCB somewhere safe
on the bottom PCB will be a small round component, mine was insulated yellow. it's dimensions are 9mm wide x 2.7mm thick. this is the battery.

becareful of the folowing. you dont want to spread solder to other areas of the pcb
carefully desolder and remove the battery.

get the new battery, solder the new cable to the pins and heatshrink the connections. make sure you have soldered the connections correctly, check for polarity (red = +, black = -)
slide the new battery into the bigger piece of heat shrink and heat it so the entire battery is fully insulated apart from the 2 wires coming out of one end.

becareful of the folowing. you dont want to spread solder to other areas of the pcb.
now solder the 2 wires to the bottom pcb (through the pcb, like the original battery was. dont just solder to the top or bottom of the pcb), make sure you have the polarity correct.
trim back the newly soldered connections so they dont short out.

reconnect the 2 halves of the speedo, careful not to damage the pin connector or the glass display. (note: you can test the batt voltage here too) in the pic you will see i had removed the tacho (isn't that mexican food?), i'm just using the pic to show how the battery fits snugly.

reinstall the speedo into the rear of the casing (which will still be on the bike) with the 4 screws that are around the electrical connector.
push the battery between the pcb and housing. it should be a comfortable, snug fit. no pressure on either the battery or the pcb. you dont want it loose and bouncing around either.
reinstall the front of the speedo with the 6 outer screws
temporarily reattch the wiring plug behind the speedo and switch on the bike. be very careful not to short out the terminals behind the tacho. wrap a thick rag around the tacho to be safe.
adjust the clock by holding down the top button on the right, push the top button quickly for hr, lower button for min.
hold down top button until the clock stops flashing.

if the following didnt work, jump to next paragraph.
switch off the bike, wait 1 min and switch it back on again. the time should be heldand possibly 1 min more than you last saw it.
unplug the electrical connector
reinstall the mount and nuts
reattach the electrical plug
reinstall the speedo with the 3 screws
reinstall the windsheild.

if it ddint work
open the speedo back up
remove it from the housing
with a digital DC volt meter, check the voltage at the battery, you should see 3v. actually, 2.8v-3.2v would be okay.
recheck polarity with the volt meter
if you still are having issues, post a comment here.



and thats it, you now have a working digital clock on your Hyosung GT250R speedo display
no need for an aftermarket attachment, wrist watch or guessing what time it is.

i took a few pics while i did this, i will throw them up when i have time.
i'll also throw up some part numbers and store to buy the stuff from.

[nzspokes]

Or you could buy a $6 stick on clock from The Warehouse and leave it at that. Mine works great.

[mellowyellow]

Or you could buy a $6 stick on clock from The Warehouse and leave it at that. Mine works great.

if thats what your happy with, great.
personally, i like having the factory clock working. i dont have to look at a consistantly reseting clock. i also dont need to find the warehouse clock has been stolen or fell off. i also feel better knowing that the fault with the clock is nothing more than a flat PCB battery. its not a warning that the rest of the speedo is about to shit itself or that there is an issue with the wiring loom/fuse/loose connection.
its also a good feeling to know that its one less thing someone can hassle me about, with the hyobag. hell i was hassling it becuase even the clock wasn't working

[spanner spinner]

this applies to the gv650 as well use to do lots of them when i was working for hyosung dealer.

[nzspokes]

if thats what your happy with, great.

Ive got no choice, they didnt believe in built in clocks in 89. Mind you bikes had more HPs back then to......

[DrunkenMistake]

Great how to guide mate,
As a future suggestion maybe some photos,
This is the same across all models of the GV and GT series from the 250 to the 650.


EDIT:
Sorry sorry missed the bottom where you said you had taken some photos! ignore me!

[ducatilover]

Good write up mate.
I like these kinds of threads

[mellowyellow]

i've thrown up some images, they are pretty big due to the typical BB script i'm use to using just deosn't seem to work here and theres a max of 6 images per post allowed through the forum attachments.
i'll change these to thumbnail pic linking to a bigger image once i figure out what the script (just like the forum attachments)

anyway, if you find it hard to see images, maybe this is the best thing for you, though you probably shouldn't be the one to do the soldering XD

oh, and if you cant be bothered ordering the batt, you can make one by soldering the wire directly to the batt.
however, this is not advised for many reasons
excessive heat can cause the batt to explode
99% of the time, you will cause the batt life to lessen due to the heat caused by the soldering, so you might be doing this again in 2 weeks time.
solder joint could become detached.

if you are going to do it, regardless of the warnings, then please follow these guidelines
wear eye, face, ear and hand protection. an exploding lithium battery is no fun.
use a low temp soldering iron
use low temp solder if you can find it
the moment the solder adheres to the batt, remove the soldering iron and coold the surface quickly by placing a metal object on the surface (don't short out the batt). this metal object (i.e. screwdriver) will help absorb the heat.
once cooled, solder the wire to the newly soldered batt and again place the metal object to the surface.
flip batt and repeat procedure.

the cooler the batt during the entire process, the better the outcome.

[Darius]

Justt wanted to say a big thanks to mellowyellow for this write up. Was really helpful.

My circuit board was slightly different, and the battery was a tiny 1.5v attached (absolutely covered in that gel stuff) to the top-most circuit board (the one with the LCD).

This was on a 2009 Gt250r (non-EFI).

Cheers!

[mukika009]

Justt wanted to say a big thanks to mellowyellow for this write up. Was really helpful.

My circuit board was slightly different, and the battery was a tiny 1.5v attached (absolutely covered in that gel stuff) to the top-most circuit board (the one with the LCD).

This was on a 2009 Gt250r (non-EFI).

Cheers!

Hey

Jeah mine was different to I've got a non efi on 2006 GT650R. It's a tiny coin type rechargeable lithium batterie it is 3v Panasonic VL-621 just change it to any other rchargeable coin lithium batter like CR2032