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Thread: Ideas wanted for raising the bars on my GPZ

  1. #1
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    Ideas wanted for raising the bars on my GPZ

    Im after ideas for raising the bars on my GPZ, 20 to 30mm would be great.

    Ive seen riser blocks on US websites but none for a GPZ, pic below. Any other ideas?
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    Quote Originally Posted by Katman View Post
    but once again you proved me wrong.
    Quote Originally Posted by cassina View Post
    I was hit by one such driver while remaining in the view of their mirror.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by nzspokes View Post
    Any other ideas?
    Bigger bike?

  3. #3
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    Well this one goes fast enough for me so im gunna stick with it.
    Quote Originally Posted by Katman View Post
    but once again you proved me wrong.
    Quote Originally Posted by cassina View Post
    I was hit by one such driver while remaining in the view of their mirror.

  4. #4
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    Yeah, know what you mean. I wanted adjustable risers on my ST4 which were available from the USA for $US350. Actually they were bars and risers, both adjustable and good value at the price. Three different planes to play with. Helibars.

    In the end I bought some long bolts, made some shims (basically thick washers), and experimented. Ended up lowering the foot pegs slightly, lifted the bars back a few mm with a washer cut in half, and was happy. The result was only a few mm from standard and maybe I'd become comfortable on the bike so it wasn't a big adjustment.

    But fun to try. Enjoy.

  5. #5
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    I cant just buy a riser block as they dont make any I can find. To old I guess. Washers wont work sadly.
    Quote Originally Posted by Katman View Post
    but once again you proved me wrong.
    Quote Originally Posted by cassina View Post
    I was hit by one such driver while remaining in the view of their mirror.

  6. #6
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    Do you have a tame engineer friend that will work for beer, a couple of riser blocks similar to ones you have pictured will be the best way to achive what you want to do. They will be easily cut out with a mill or cnc machine the cost of the alloy will be cheep the hourly charge out will be what will cost you hence finding a tame engineer. Maybe some kiwibiker can do them for you at a good price. Also worth checking out if any other kawasaki handlebars will fit that are higher, I put vfr800 bars on my blackbird to achive what you are trying to do and they where a straight bolt on option.

  7. #7
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    Im looking at doing just that. But have found over the last few days im getting more used to it. Ive also changed the pegs to billet ones which have let me shuffle a little forward on the bike so my backs straighter. Seems odd but that few mm back on the pegs has made a big difference.

    Going to do a big ride over the weekend to see how I get on.

    Mind you Ive got plans for my fork which means it may sit higher in its stroke which will help to.
    Quote Originally Posted by Katman View Post
    but once again you proved me wrong.
    Quote Originally Posted by cassina View Post
    I was hit by one such driver while remaining in the view of their mirror.

  8. #8
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    How sure are you that this will fix the problem? Ergonomics are often a combination of factors, changing only the one may make the others worse.

    It also looks like some risers for that would need to be a two sided milling operation, twice the job for any tame engineers you might find...
    "A shark on whiskey is mighty risky, but a shark on beer is a beer engineer" - Tad Ghostal

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by bogan View Post
    How sure are you that this will fix the problem? Ergonomics are often a combination of factors, changing only the one may make the others worse.

    It also looks like some risers for that would need to be a two sided milling operation, twice the job for any tame engineers you might find...
    Nah, that photo is from a different model. It would just be making the shape then boring 3 holes, one big one and 2 smaller.
    Quote Originally Posted by Katman View Post
    but once again you proved me wrong.
    Quote Originally Posted by cassina View Post
    I was hit by one such driver while remaining in the view of their mirror.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by nzspokes View Post
    Nah, that photo is from a different model. It would just be making the shape then boring 3 holes, one big one and 2 smaller.
    the top bit would still need a fork sized 'peg' to go into it for rigidity though right? or does the fork go right through? In either case, I'll hopefully have the spindle sorted on my CNC in a few weeks, and will probably be able to do this sort of job soon (finger crossed).
    "A shark on whiskey is mighty risky, but a shark on beer is a beer engineer" - Tad Ghostal

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by bogan View Post
    the top bit would still need a fork sized 'peg' to go into it for rigidity though right? or does the fork go right through? In either case, I'll hopefully have the spindle sorted on my CNC in a few weeks, and will probably be able to do this sort of job soon (finger crossed).
    I was just going to grab some steel/alloy tube for that same size as the fork tube.

    You think you can make this?
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    Quote Originally Posted by Katman View Post
    but once again you proved me wrong.
    Quote Originally Posted by cassina View Post
    I was hit by one such driver while remaining in the view of their mirror.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by nzspokes View Post
    I was just going to grab some steel/alloy tube for that same size as the fork tube.

    You think you can make this?
    yeh, that would work.

    I can't make very much (innacurate wood cutting so far) without the spindle upgrade, so no promises, but I certainly hope so!
    "A shark on whiskey is mighty risky, but a shark on beer is a beer engineer" - Tad Ghostal

  13. #13
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    its a bit hard to tell

    had a look at gpz1000 bars not long ago, the tip of the forks sit in a recess in the handles and two capscrews underneath
    the bungs secure it to the upper triple tree..

    you would have to mimic that in a block of alloy ( not hard to do in a lathe ) infact
    anyone with a lathe and drill press could knock out what you need or you could just
    do it in bar and have it spigoted and the capscrews on extended posts ( be different )

    or option D and yes Ive seen this done is push the forks through the triple tree have a
    spacer machined sleve over the fork for the height required and the capcrews on spuds
    ( tube spacers ) ( though the person in question had used plastic tubing for spacers )

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by bogan View Post
    yeh, that would work.

    I can't make very much (innacurate wood cutting so far) without the spindle upgrade, so no promises, but I certainly hope so!
    Have you worked out what that plate is for?
    Quote Originally Posted by Katman View Post
    but once again you proved me wrong.
    Quote Originally Posted by cassina View Post
    I was hit by one such driver while remaining in the view of their mirror.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by nzspokes View Post
    Have you worked out what that plate is for?
    Can't think of anything requiring a half depth pocket...
    "A shark on whiskey is mighty risky, but a shark on beer is a beer engineer" - Tad Ghostal

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