Charging system issue

[sinfull]

yea i burnt out a regulator and 2 cdis during my 600F1 ownership..

nice bikes tho

Wot he said, ya lucky ya didn't burn out ya CDI

[Akzle]

yes your regulator is fucked, at 5k rpm, it should give out about 14V across the battery, and shouldnt ever be any more than that. Your regulator is over charging your battery, which is also fucking your battery.
Replace both the regulator and the battery together, and you should be away without any problems - this is a common issue on the older CBR600's, by older I mean the whole F series (thought the F4i might be exempt from this blanket statement?) I had the same issue on my F2, replaced regulator and battery, problems gone.

+1

14.8V is the MAX that should go into a 12v battery and cranking batteries should not go below 10.4 V.
at 17v your battery is getting nearly 3v per cell, which is nearly 1V over per cell. at that voltage you'll be overheating your battery, if you recall school C science, higher heat in a conductor creates greater resistance, which in turn will draw higher current, which creates more heat.
IF the plates in your battery aren't stuffed you'll get away wihtout a new one. if it's SLA (sealed lead acid) replace it.
if you can then maybe some INOX, a desulphation charging cycle and then clean water in the cells.

generalrule for charging all batteries is half a volt over per cell.

[tigertim20]

It's a sealed battery ...



The conenctors were identical. I bolted it back into place last night, plugged it in, and gave it a test.


The results were interesting. As soon as I take the bike off idle (aka rev the engine) it sits around 14V - and it is nice and stable now. At idle the voltage is actually a bit higher, and less stable (aka the volatge wanders up and down a little bit). I also have heated grips. I notice at idle now when the grips are on the headlight now flickers a tiny bit.

I might try turning the idle up a tiny bit. Then again, it doesn't both me that much so I'll probably just leave it.

so wait, at idle, the voltage is higher than 14, then it DROPS to 14 when its revved?
if so I would be thinking about pulling the stator out and taking a good look at it, because that dont sound right to me.
my personal (and admittedly, not particularly huge) experience of charging systems is that they can be a cunt to correctly diagnose, because one faulty component tends to have an affect on others, e.g., a shagged stator will hurt your regulator, and a shagged regulator will fuck your battery.

Do some extra checks, or you be replacing the whole lot again in 3 months

[p.dath]

so wait, at idle, the voltage is higher than 14, then it DROPS to 14 when its revved?

Correct. Already checked the stator. The resistance of each coil is around 0.1 Ohm (which is what the service manual says it should be). Also checked for shorts to earth. All looks good.

[tigertim20]

Correct. Already checked the stator. The resistance of each coil is around 0.1 Ohm (which is what the service manual says it should be). Also checked for shorts to earth. All looks good.

did you start the bike, and unplug the stator from the regulator, and test it on A/C as well? you want to be checking the outputl. You want to test it across all combinations there are three i think, you test 1 and 2 together, 2 and 3 together, and 3 and 1 together, make sure they are all equal.

[tigertim20]

addition to above, do this wile running obviously.

[CookMySock]

Have a look at how the stator is wired and see what you can test with the engine running. Obviously you will need to be quite careful doing this, especially insulation checks to ground.