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Thread: Front axle nylons?

  1. #16
    Join Date
    6th August 2008 - 09:18
    Bike
    FXR150 Bucket, RM125
    Location
    Wellington
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    916
    Mine were ground to nearly halfway with stock setup. My ZXR footpegs have had to be raised 40 and back 20 and I still hit the ground with them, just not as much. It also depends on how you ride the bike. Some people use lean angle more than others (depending on how much you hang off, approach corners etc). My Dad hits the footpegs on my bike more than I do and I am lapping about 2 seconds quicker (until he comes out and decides to have another go). It's a comfort thing as much as it's a ground clearance thing. I quite liked Andrew Adlams set up which had the footpegs very far back and up a reasonable amount too.

    Just make a steel plate with 6 holes in it. 2 for mounting to frame, 2 holes that are 20mm back and 10mm higher, 2 holes 20mm back and 30mm higher (or some variant like that). You will need to make a new/longer gear shift linkage too.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    8th November 2005 - 17:40
    Bike
    Speed Triple 1050, FXR 150 Bucket
    Location
    Upper Hutt
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    691
    Quote Originally Posted by hmurphy View Post
    Mine were ground to nearly halfway with stock setup. My ZXR footpegs have had to be raised 40 and back 20 and I still hit the ground with them, just not as much. It also depends on how you ride the bike. Some people use lean angle more than others (depending on how much you hang off, approach corners etc). My Dad hits the footpegs on my bike more than I do and I am lapping about 2 seconds quicker (until he comes out and decides to have another go). It's a comfort thing as much as it's a ground clearance thing. I quite liked Andrew Adlams set up which had the footpegs very far back and up a reasonable amount too.

    Just make a steel plate with 6 holes in it. 2 for mounting to frame, 2 holes that are 20mm back and 10mm higher, 2 holes 20mm back and 30mm higher (or some variant like that). You will need to make a new/longer gear shift linkage too.
    Can you buy a longer gear shift linkage?

  3. #18
    Join Date
    4th February 2005 - 07:32
    Bike
    Rattlecan blue
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    Auckland
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    3,963
    Quote Originally Posted by John_H View Post
    Can you buy a longer gear shift linkage?
    Yes, check his thread

    http://www.fxr150.co.nz/discussion/v....php?f=8&t=710

  4. #19
    Join Date
    8th November 2005 - 17:40
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    Speed Triple 1050, FXR 150 Bucket
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    Upper Hutt
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    Quote Originally Posted by Henk View Post
    Thanks Henk. Could you Pm me his contact details please.

    Cheers

  5. #20
    Join Date
    4th February 2005 - 07:32
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    Rattlecan blue
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    Auckland
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    3,963
    I pmed him on the FXR site and took it from there.
    Got one for the FXR100'project and a couple of spares for the toolbox.
    Only thing missing was the nuts but I managed to get the LH thread jobs through a supplier at work so am all set.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    26th April 2006 - 12:52
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    Several
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    Hutt Valley
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    5,131
    Another alternative axle protection is an tapping a M6 threaded hole down the centre of the axle at each end and adding a short crash-bung held in place with a capscrew.

    I've crash tested this extensively too and It's very effective but short bungs are best to avoid excessive bending force.

    I didn't mention it earlier because it needs a lathe but thought I better add it to the discussion in case someone with access to the right gear reads this in the future.
    Heinz Varieties

  7. #22
    Join Date
    8th November 2005 - 17:40
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    Speed Triple 1050, FXR 150 Bucket
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    Quote Originally Posted by koba View Post
    Another alternative axle protection is an tapping a M6 threaded hole down the centre of the axle at each end and adding a short crash-bung held in place with a capscrew.

    I've crash tested this extensively too and It's very effective but short bungs are best to avoid excessive bending force.

    I didn't mention it earlier because it needs a lathe but thought I better add it to the discussion in case someone with access to the right gear reads this in the future.
    Yeah, I had thought about that, just as you say - no lathe.

  8. #23
    Join Date
    7th September 2009 - 09:47
    Bike
    Yo momma
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    Podunk USA
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    Quote Originally Posted by F5 Dave View Post
    I've moved mine down as too far up is a pain in the ankles. Have to be comfortable to ride fast.
    Old git...

  9. #24
    Join Date
    25th March 2004 - 17:22
    Bike
    RZ496/Street 765RS/GasGas/ etc etc
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    Wellington. . ok the hutt
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    21,301
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    Sure am & with a weak ankle from an Ohakune crash 10 years back. Decided to go through toe sliders & stay fresh. But I have seen some piss prepared buckets where the owner has raised the pegs into a silly high 'racing' tuck that looked cool in the garage but can't have helped on the track.


    Think Bayden's Kawi 90 was the worst I'd ever seen. You could have crashed the bike & still probably not scraped the pegs
    Don't you look at my accountant.
    He's the only one I've got.

  10. #25
    Join Date
    20th October 2010 - 20:59
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    Rg50 Fxr's150
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    Auckland
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    Mine are 30mm up & 30mm back. Raised the seat about 40mm

  11. #26
    Join Date
    4th February 2005 - 07:32
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    Rattlecan blue
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    Auckland
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    On our FXRs we are either back ten and up twenty or back twenty and up ten. Can't remember but think back ten ...

  12. #27
    Join Date
    9th October 2008 - 15:52
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    I might try thick wall rachem on my fork legs maybe 2 layers with a section of choping board on the outer of the forks. Rachem glues and thickens as you heat it and has its own glue that activates with the heat.
    I have evolved as a KB member.Now nothing I say should be taken seriously.

  13. #28
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    4th February 2005 - 07:32
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    I'd be leaning towards a solution that doesn't require a knife and a heat gun if you ever need to pull the front wheel at the track.
    Have been known to change wheels five times in a day before getting pissed off with the changeable weather.

  14. #29
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    9th October 2008 - 15:52
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    Quote Originally Posted by Henk View Post
    I'd be leaning towards a solution that doesn't require a knife and a heat gun if you ever need to pull the front wheel at the track.
    Have been known to change wheels five times in a day before getting pissed off with the changeable weather.
    I was planning on removing the wheel and doing it above the axel height but sticking out far enough to take the fall so it wont effect the wheel removal.
    I have evolved as a KB member.Now nothing I say should be taken seriously.

  15. #30
    Join Date
    21st December 2008 - 10:35
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    2010 Kawasaki Concours ZG1400
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    Rotorua
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    Quote Originally Posted by John_H View Post
    Yeah, I had thought about that, just as you say - no lathe.
    I could maybe help you there John. I've got a real old dunger of a lathe sitting in the garage. It's no good for accurate work but perfect for whipping up a couple of crash bungs if you have the material.

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