The plug for the r/r and stator was in a semi state of burnt out so i removed it and temp wired into strip connectors before testing but due to the low battery voltage I only got a few minutes to test things before voltage was to low to run the bike(about 7 volts). i only tested while cables connected into r/r the 3 yellows were reading 4volts ac across y1/y2 y1/y3 y2/y3 and the red was reading 6 volts to neg. I think that may be correct.
New battery arrived today and stripped seat and rebuilt foam ready for new cover. got some gasket gu for alt cover but I wont do that till im sure its charging correctly.
I have evolved as a KB member.Now nothing I say should be taken seriously.
Quick question, when you take the yellow wire reading, you have the multimeter set to AC right? 4v AC is not going to do it, you need at least 14V to put charge into the battery. To check it properly take the reg/rect out of the circuit, if your stator won't produce the voltage when unloaded, it's fucked.
"A shark on whiskey is mighty risky, but a shark on beer is a beer engineer" - Tad Ghostal
the 4volts ac yellow cables is pre rectifier not after. Its a 4 wire stator rect/reg. The fact that all combos from the 3 yellow stator wires are all 4 volts ac seems to indicate a winding is not lost. Voltage to battery is zero because rec/reg has no output at all. When the new r/r arrives ill connect it and new battery before I bother ordering or rewinding the stator.
I have evolved as a KB member.Now nothing I say should be taken seriously.
you should be getting 50-60volts ac from your stator at 5000rpm across all 3 y wires. check out.
http://www.thegsresources.com/garage/gs_statorfault.htm
not realy a statement. just tryin to help. Regards D
Thanks. I have done about half of those tests but now I have a good battery will be easier. I might need to recheck with my other meter also as the one I used is auto ranging dc/ac. Also its been dark outside with jumper leads hooked up to van. Ill retest with new battery tonight.
With the plug between stator and rr being damaged the first thing I did was connect via strip connectors which gave me terminals to test from that you wouldnt have when plug used so I tested while connected to rr. Due to the fact that under load and all the results across the three combos believe that stator should be ok. Will retest with them disconnected tonight in garage where I can see better.
I have evolved as a KB member.Now nothing I say should be taken seriously.
New rr arrived today from hongKong and has been fitted. Runs good and charges 14.2 volts at idle so all good.
Thanks for the help alt does send 50 volts at just over 5k but only when rr is disconnected checked it before using crimp terminals to wire the rr as the plug socket was toasted. Im picking the socket died and took the rr out. It looked to be water damage or not fully plugged in, which started the issue.
Just waiting on new seat cover now. Alternator gasket done. i cant see anything that will fail warrent. chain is getting worn if i can get one cheap ill fit a new one. tard me had one for $45 but I missed auction end so have asked him to relist or offer it.
Looks like $490 all up or $540 with new chain including warrent and 3months rego. Maybe I should ride it for a while. Motor sounds good and doesnt smoak. record seem to show milage is 44000 km as per the clock unless someone did a massive km haul with the clock disconnected.
I have evolved as a KB member.Now nothing I say should be taken seriously.
Update pix after first clean. Still many more hours to go lol.
I have evolved as a KB member.Now nothing I say should be taken seriously.
Cheap! (cos I can't bring myself to say it's cool) Anti-dive front end though, with twin discs, perfect for doing a victory skid...
"A shark on whiskey is mighty risky, but a shark on beer is a beer engineer" - Tad Ghostal
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