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Thread: New guy to Buckets

  1. #376
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    25th March 2004 - 17:22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drew View Post
    . ..
    Motor in my bike is different to the spares though. It's piston over reed ported, but the spares are straight piston ports. Dunno what's going on there.
    . .. .
    In the words of Eddie Vedder; Its evolution Baby!
    Don't you look at my accountant.
    He's the only one I've got.

  2. #377
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    Quote Originally Posted by F5 Dave View Post
    In the words of Eddie Vedder; Its evolution Baby!
    But is it better for my purposes?

  3. #378
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    Well I'd start off by guessing the older piston port version is cast iron barrels from memory & the 1/2 reed version is ally with sleeves? That in itself is good, or at least better than all iron. My RG50 is still 1/2 piston port so they can be made to go ok, but it is old fashioned & there are better arrangements, but only with an outstanding amount of work to get it right. Might even find the latter barrels have extra transfers. Suzi used a single pair for many years in its older kit.

    If you had the money I'd work out how fast you can make the fcker spin & rebuild the crank with decent parts & fit some nice pistons, maybe KX or KTM65 might be within size (pistons are open). That would mean you could spin it up to 13,000 & make use to the fact it is a twin.

    Using old parts I think 10,000 is probably safer. The issue is old parts tend to die when revved. I went through a lot of old engines when I first started as they seemed cheaper to buy than a rod kit. In the grand scheme I was very wrong.
    Don't you look at my accountant.
    He's the only one I've got.

  4. #379
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    Quote Originally Posted by F5 Dave View Post
    Well I'd start off by guessing the older piston port version is cast iron barrels from memory & the 1/2 reed version is ally with sleeves? That in itself is good, or at least better than all iron. My RG50 is still 1/2 piston port so they can be made to go ok, but it is old fashioned & there are better arrangements, but only with an outstanding amount of work to get it right. Might even find the latter barrels have extra transfers. Suzi used a single pair for many years in its older kit.

    If you had the money I'd work out how fast you can make the fcker spin & rebuild the crank with decent parts & fit some nice pistons, maybe KX or KTM65 might be within size (pistons are open). That would mean you could spin it up to 13,000 & make use to the fact it is a twin.

    Using old parts I think 10,000 is probably safer. The issue is old parts tend to die when revved. I went through a lot of old engines when I first started as they seemed cheaper to buy than a rod kit. In the grand scheme I was very wrong.
    All the barrels are alloy.

    Will direct my thinking in the thread about my build, Steve's one seems to go off track quite easily. The thread, not his bike.

  5. #380
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    18th May 2007 - 20:23
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    RG50 and 76 Suzuki GP125 Buckets
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    Click image for larger version. 

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    We use forged KDX50 pistons in our RG50's, Wiseco p/n 826MO4100 they come in std 41mm through to 43mm which is the std size for a GT125. Kawasaki KX60 pistons start at 43mm Wiseco p/n 648MO4300 both have 12mm L/E pins.

    RG50 bore 41mm stroke 37.8mm GT125 bore 43mm stroke 43mm

    We have some GT125 engines here and were thinking of using Aprilia50 rod kits, de stroking the crank to 36mm and using KX60 pistons to get a 100cc air cooled twin. Or use two RG50 cylinders and de stroke the GT crank to 37.8 for a 100cc water cooled twin.

    Some GT125 engines have piston port and some piston/case reed port but they all have air cooled alloy barrels. The hard part about converting them to 100cc water cooled is that the cylinders are very close together and fitting two RG50 cylinders may be a bit of a challenge.

    So using the original cylinders and de stroking the GT may be the only practical solution but then you get an over square bore stroke ratio and the motors themselves are fairly heavy.

    The best we have got out of any of the RG50's is 14 rwhp at 14,000 rpm so that is roughly 28 for a 100 twin and we are already pulling 30+ from the GP125 rotary valve single and its a lighter motor.

    But we do like the sound a twin makes ........

  6. #381
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    Quote Originally Posted by TZ350 View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    We use forged KDX50 pistons in our RG50's, Wiseco p/n 826MO4100 they come in std 41mm through to 43mm which is the std size for a GT125. Kawasaki KX60 pistons start at 43mm Wiseco p/n 648MO4300 both have 12mm L/E pins.

    RG50 bore 41mm stroke 37.8mm GT125 bore 43mm stroke 43mm

    We have some GT125 engines here and were thinking of using Aprilia50 rod kits, de stroking the crank to 36mm and using KX60 pistons to get a 100cc air cooled twin. Or use two RG50 cylinders and de stroke the GT crank to 37.8 for a 100cc water cooled twin.

    Some GT125 engines have piston port and some piston/case reed port but they all have air cooled alloy barrels. The hard part about converting them to 100cc water cooled is that the cylinders are very close together and fitting two RG50 cylinders may be a bit of a challenge.

    So using the original cylinders and de stroking the GT may be the only practical solution but then you get an over square bore stroke ratio and the motors themselves are fairly heavy.

    The best we have got out of any of the RG50's is 14 rwhp at 14,000 rpm so that is roughly 28 for a 100 twin and we are already pulling 30+ from the GP125 rotary valve single and its a lighter motor.

    But we do like the sound a twin makes ........
    Wasn't the X5 and X7 six speed boxed? Could be a solution to the gearbox there.

    RG250, stroked down with two RG 50 barrels. Hold on...I've got an RGV motor. Short stroke that, chuck a sleeve down the barrel and Bob's my uncle.

    There are too many possibilities.

  7. #382
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    9th October 2008 - 15:52
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    Got the bucket going again. Not on new muffler as its not arrived yet.

    Took it for a we ride. Goes good at bottom and top end with hole in middle.
    Any tuning tips. I have a full set of main jets and fitted a 120 to start off with. Needle is in the centre position.
    I have evolved as a KB member.Now nothing I say should be taken seriously.

  8. #383
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    Quote Originally Posted by mossy1200 View Post
    Got the bucket going again. Not on new muffler as its not arrived yet.

    Took it for a we ride. Goes good at bottom and top end with hole in middle.
    Any tuning tips. I have a full set of main jets and fitted a 120 to start off with. Needle is in the centre position.
    Back the timing off.

  9. #384
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    7th February 2009 - 17:47
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    Quote Originally Posted by mossy1200 View Post
    Got the bucket going again. Not on new muffler as its not arrived yet.

    Took it for a we ride. Goes good at bottom and top end with hole in middle.
    Any tuning tips. I have a full set of main jets and fitted a 120 to start off with. Needle is in the centre position.
    what was wrong with that other new muffler you got?

  10. #385
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    Quote Originally Posted by crazy man View Post
    what was wrong with that other new muffler you got?
    Its to loud. Even worse now I have a bigger carb. I dont want to do to many carb changes until the new muffler arrives and is fitted.
    Im curious about the carb needing half throttle to get through the mid range. Is it possible it may need the needle lifted a slot or 2. Top end seems to say the main jet is ok.
    I have evolved as a KB member.Now nothing I say should be taken seriously.

  11. #386
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    Quote Originally Posted by mossy1200 View Post
    Its to loud. Even worse now I have a bigger carb. I dont want to do to many carb changes until the new muffler arrives and is fitted.
    Im curious about the carb needing half throttle to get through the mid range. Is it possible it may need the needle lifted a slot or 2. Top end seems to say the main jet is ok.
    bugger just put the same muffer as you on my self the old one was 95 db at 15 metres was puttting the new one on tonight)-:

  12. #387
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    Quote Originally Posted by mossy1200 View Post
    Its to loud. Even worse now I have a bigger carb. I dont want to do to many carb changes until the new muffler arrives and is fitted.
    Im curious about the carb needing half throttle to get through the mid range. Is it possible it may need the needle lifted a slot or 2. Top end seems to say the main jet is ok.
    what kind of carb are you running?

  13. #388
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    9th October 2008 - 15:52
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    Quote Originally Posted by crazy man View Post
    bugger just put the same muffer as you on my self the old one was 95 db at 15 metres was puttting the new one on tonight)-:


    Oh. I dont have a meter but I think its to loud. I bought this instead.


    http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/List...x?id=490352922
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    I have evolved as a KB member.Now nothing I say should be taken seriously.

  14. #389
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    will let you know what it is on mine when l cheak it

  15. #390
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    Quote Originally Posted by crazy man View Post
    will let you know what it is on mine when l cheak it
    If its ok you can have the one thats on mine at moment as a spare but I welded a header at angle onto it.

    The end cap metal isnt the best. Very thin and not even sure thats its not some crap blended poo metal. Very low heat required to weld it.
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