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Thread: Buying a MIG

  1. #16
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    8th October 2006 - 16:33
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    Both of those welders are light use models (which is ok for home use, I have a similar spec one as the machinery house one myself).
    I have welded commercially with mig,gas,tig,and arc.
    The main criteria of a welder is the duty cycle . http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/s...ead.php?t=9099.
    I would guess that both would be o.k for what you want, its mainly the time you can weld continously that matters.
    My only concern is that if you are buying online you REALLY need to see the quality of the wire feed system (especially the drive roller) as some of the chinese stuff is absolute shit and the drive grooves wear out real quick and there is no local companies that want to or will help you out.
    I would ask them to throw in a few drive rollers in with the deal.
    Make sure you keep the torch as straight as possible when you store it (normally in a gentle large loop)as the cheaper ones tend to bind as they age.
    Not knowing the duty cycle of the NUweld model I would probably go for the machinery house one only because if the specs are similar, "bigger is better' for case size (for cooling).
    I would buy from a physical store that you can get parts and service from.

  2. #17
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    6th May 2012 - 10:41
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    yep. depends on your usage for duty cycle (MMAW is better here)
    IMO get a mid range one, whichever way you go, if you're set on mig then preferably that will do gas+gasless.

    owning gas bottles is a pain in the arse.

    tradezone have good range.

    but why not get a TIG+Arc combo... =better. tig will do all your allys and stainless and fancy fine weldin' etc and arc is sweet for general fab/repair works...

    i'm ashamed to admit i own a chinese welder (140A mmaw) but it does for what i wanted it to do, and being arc welding, your duty cycle doesn't matter so much as the best you're going to do is burn through a whole rod, most often though you only need to do 4" weld at a time...
    and there's SFA difference between it (for a couple hundred bucks) and the cuzzy's BOC which cost about 800$ and is only slightly lighter. (altho it does have HF start for tig adapt...)

    the other-other option -- a set of 400A jumper leads, arc handpiece and two old truck batteries...

  3. #18
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    14th July 2006 - 21:39
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    If it's just a trailer you are welding and 6mm steel a good old stick welder will do the job well if you are capable. Often passed by these days but a good user can produce strong clean welds. Ideal for trailer building etc.

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by AllanB View Post
    If it's just a trailer you are welding and 6mm steel a good old stick welder will do the job well if you are capable. Often passed by these days but a good user can produce strong clean welds. Ideal for trailer building etc.
    Plan on doing a fair bit of machine building too. I learnt on a stick welder, but I'm planning on much more work for it than just the odd job, so the time and annoyance saved from a MIG over an ARC or TIG will be worth it. I just wanted to figure out the best MIG for my uses, and the info given on duty cycle helped heaps
    "A shark on whiskey is mighty risky, but a shark on beer is a beer engineer" - Tad Ghostal

  5. #20
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    14th July 2006 - 21:39
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    Hear ya Bogan. A mig is on my wish list. I've looked at the 'economical' (ahem) ones and figure spending more on a decent unit is the way to go. Consequently I've not got one yet! There must be a day when my children stop costing me money ha ha ha.

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by AllanB View Post
    There must be a day when my children stop costing me money ha ha ha.
    Yeah, its usually the day when your grandkids start costing you money. Do not buy a cheap mig(unless it is a good brand,going cheap) cos they are shit and cause that much frustration that it is just not worth it. The cheap heap of shit mig I bought got attacked with a 20 ton digger, OH what a feeling.
    For a man is a slave to whatever has mastered him. Keep an open mind, just dont let your brains fall out.

  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by bogan View Post
    Anybody know of a decent deal? Theres heaps of different brands, and I'm wondering if it is the type of tool which manufacturers can build cheaply and properly, or whether a reputable brand is worth a bit extra?

    for example, difference between these two?
    http://www.trademe.co.nz/business-fa...-479073880.htm
    https://machineryhouse.co.nz/W1099

    Also, how much is bottle rental?
    why not get a tig, much more versatile too?

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by jellywrestler View Post
    why not get a tig, much more versatile too?
    Tig is slower, harder to get into corners, costs more in gas and wire, and can't do one handed welding. Great for jobs when you have to have a TIG, but I wouldn't call them versatile. My flatmate has one that will do stainless so that sorts out the exhaust jobbies! A TIG that can do ali is on the wish list, but want a really decent one for that (2k or more), as the cheap/shitty ones are harder on the tips, and harder to weld with.
    "A shark on whiskey is mighty risky, but a shark on beer is a beer engineer" - Tad Ghostal

  9. #24
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    You can ally weld with a mig too....
    Get a gas bottle, gasless is not as good. It's all been said before, go for the best duty cycle you can afford. Next is adjustability, then make sure you can get bits/backup for it.
    Buy one from a respectable dealer, it may cost a bit more, but it'll be worth it the first time you have a problem....
    And I use .6 on the lighter stuff, way nicer than .8, and you'd be surprised how well it'll stick thicker stuff with a bit of prep....but again, something you can get bit's for it won't be a problem to be set up for both
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  10. #25
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    I would forget buying new and get this one, http://www.trademe.co.nz/business-fa...-478969502.htm
    I had one the same, awesome welder, good for trailer building, i did 2, panel work as well.
    I wish I never sold it. Would be 2k+ to buy new.
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  11. #26
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    Get a name brand like Miller, Hobart or Lincoln with 150 amps or better. If anything goes wrong with a good quality unit you will always be able to get parts for it.

  12. #27
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    I went cheap on the MIG when i got one and kicked myself for doing it.
    spend a some extra dosh and get one with a good duty cycle and good name brand and it will last you forever.
    I now have an invertor stick welder for all i need to do and it's friggin awesome.
    Trumpydom!

  13. #28
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    31st January 2012 - 16:09
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    my last mig unit cost 2k from boc themselves.
    You definitly want the eurogun conector throw away the useless gun that
    comes with it and get a bernard.

    Austarc ( yellow ones? ) WMA? hell its so dented I can't tell
    but has a remote wire feeder builtproof machine.

    6mm, hell a decent 250amp .9 wire would piss that no problems

    my three phase DIY unit will weld 16mm plate 1.2 wire no issues
    except for the heat! the cone gets bloody hot!

    chinese shit is just that shit...

  14. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by jasonu View Post
    Get a name brand like Miller, Hobart or Lincoln with 150 amps or better. If anything goes wrong with a good quality unit you will always be able to get parts for it.
    Oh yeah, a replacement simple drive card for my Miller was going to cost more than the machine that replaced it.
    Go soothingly on the grease mud, as there lurks the skid demon

  15. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by carburator View Post
    Austarc ( yellow ones? ) WMA? hell its so dented I can't tell
    but has a remote wire feeder builtproof machine.
    No longer made, you can't even get parts.
    Go soothingly on the grease mud, as there lurks the skid demon

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