Modding FXR for buckets at Mt Welly

[mcfly]

Hey all

I've just got myself an fxr and am planning to race it up here in Auckland.
I'm hoping there are some people on here who are able to give me some advice on how to get this beast of a thing ready

I ripped a whole lot of wiring out of it, only keeping the essentials. Chopped a few wires I shouldn't have on the way but managed to get it running without the battery So here's my question.
Am I able to just rip the starter motor out and it still run. Or is there a bit more to it? Like putting some sort of blank over the gaping hole?
Also I hear that you need to put nylon on the axles and other parts for running on the cart tracks. Where is the best place to get them from or what to make them out of? Chopping boards or something like that.

Marty

[kel]

You'll find answers to those questions and plenty more at www.fxr150.co.nz/ Ignore the GN carb fad

[Yow Ling]

If you register at FXR150.co.nz you will be ablr to download manuals etc

the tech pages are here

http://www.fxr150.co.nz/forum/forumd...ips-and-Tricks

you can use a frost plug to fill the starter hole, if you are taking off the starter you might as well remove the reduction gears and sprag clutch off the back of the ignition rotor/flywheel. Make sure you buy or borrow the special tool to remove the flywheel or you will probably bugger it.

[Henk]

As far as nylon goes you'll need to sort the foot pegs, bar ends (plastic wine corks will do) and axles. In theory if you lie the bike on its side nothing metal should touch the ground.
As far as the GN carb fad that Kel disparages, they are a reasonable option if your standard carb has a shot membrane like 90% of the standard carbs I have seen do.

[Henk]

Don't forget to drill and lock wire the sump plug.
With the starter motor, unless you have ripped out all the wiring already leave it there. Plenty of time for saving weight later and in the meantime having a bike that will start at the push of a button after you have crashed it can be worth its weight in gold.

[Rick 52]

Good slicks or BT39 on your standard rims are a good strater, a good tip is to use brand new tubes good quality or fit tubless valves as the tubes wear fast when racing, Foot pegs will need to be moved up and back after a meeting or 2 for better ground clearance.
Forkes will need fresh oil and a good clean out (I used 20s weight fork oil) Front sproket will need to be changed for a 12t, best thing is just get it to the track for the next meeting and I'm sure you will get lots of help ! .........Henk is our friendly bucket mother !!

[Henk]

Rick is also a bit of a mother, but he is right, do what you need to get it track legal and bring it along. Next meeting is 16 17 June. When I started I did a couple of months just turning up to the Saturday practices, mainly through clashes with other stuff I admit, but it is worthwhile, you get to do some shakedown runs and learn where the track goes without being thrown straight into the B grade washing machine. Last meet I (stupidly) raced every class, F4, F5, B grade and sidecars, the scariest of the lot were the B grade races. We'll be going anti clockwise next month as well so turn one gets pretty bloody manic.

If you do rock up and have questions look me up, or ask the first guy you see who doesn't look like he eats live puppies, nobody will give you deliberately misleading advice.

[mcfly]

Cheers for the replies. I might just leave the starter motor in for the time being as well as trying to play with my carb till I come to the track and talk to some of you. Don't want to ruin it before I even get out there.
My bike was down in chch with my for a while before I got it sent up here and he put some slicks on it for me so I don't need to worry about tyres for the time being.

My fuel cap at the moment has seen better days cos I lost the key and tried the old opening a lock with a screwdriver and trick. Has anyone got any tricks to keep the fuel cap from popping up and not leaking since the whole locking mechanism is busted and rattling around in the bottom of my fuel tank. My bad.... I have tried putting washers under the unused allen key bolts to hold the cap down with not much success. Ideas?

So as I understand what I need before my bike is legal is
-fuel tank cap working
-sump plug lock wired
-nylon all round
-some sort of racing number

Anything else I'm missing?

[Bert]

My fuel cap at the moment has seen better days cos I lost the key and tried the old opening a lock with a screwdriver and trick. Has anyone got any tricks to keep the fuel cap from popping up and not leaking since the whole locking mechanism is busted and rattling around in the bottom of my fuel tank. My bad.... I have tried putting washers under the unused allen key bolts to hold the cap down with not much success. Ideas?

I'm sure plenty of people will answer this with different solutions.
Take off the fuel sensor underside and retrieve all the bits back out (a magnet helps).

I removed the drum (bit the key go's in) and left the bottom bit which the drum connects to (enabling one to use a flat head screw driver to open and close/lock; just remember to lock-tight the screws as they can fall out and make life a b1tch getting them back out of the tank; as you have already found).
The other option is to purchase a cnc cap (I thinks its the SV cap that fits; someone will correct me.. Henk...) that solved all issues...

[Henk]

The four bolt CNC caps from house of custom work. Nigel got some much cheaper chinese ones off eBay that also work.
If you get really stuck let me know, I may still have a spare here somewhere but it will take some time and effort to get to the bits box where it may or may not be hiding.

[koba]

-some sort of racing number

White number, black background for F4.

You can make it really clear and presentable with a bit of effort, masking, black paint and a real-estate sign or similar.

Check on here and ask around to try find a vacant 2 digit number for Auckland.

You want one on the front and one on each side.

[Henk]

Have a look on the AMCC website

Www.amcc.co.nz

In the results section for numbers that have been used this season. There is a thread here somewhere with a spreadsheet that I put together on an occasional basis that lists available numbers but I can't be bothered doing it again at the moment. If you find it it will give you a bit more history going back though.

[mcfly]

I've decided I cant salvage my fuel cap so have just ordered one off eBay that I'm hoping will fit for pretty cheap.
How do you guys rate the back protectors for $30 on trademe?

[cotswold]

[
How do you guys rate the back protectors for $30 on trademe?[/QUOTE]

Not seen them but be careful.
I had Henk test my one by running me over so if you ask him to test yours he would most likely be willing,, Buy a good back protector as you only get one back. A good 2nd hand one would be obtainable for 30-40 bucks

[Pumba]

I've decided I cant salvage my fuel cap so have just ordered one off eBay that I'm hoping will fit for pretty cheap.
How do you guys rate the back protectors for $30 on trademe?

got a link?