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Thread: Should I Loctite mirrors?

  1. #16
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    I thought I had this nailed, until tonight when I had the last two bolts to remove and replace, and of course, I can't get the last bolt out (same issue, in so tight it is ripping the Allen head out). I tried the trick I used on the others, of hammer a torx head in and using a wrench to remove it, but that didn't work. And now I have stripped most of the meat out of the head.

    I was tossing up drilling the damaged Allren head out a little bit, running a tap into it, then put some super-glue onto another bolt and screw that into the damaged one using the newly created thread I have just made. Let the glue set over night and then try and get the whole lot out.

    What do you think?

  2. #17
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    Your idea relies upon the super glue applied to your extracting bolt being stronger than what is likely a stud locking agent on a thread of a larger diameter - good luck with that. I'd be inclined to try a small square screw extractor first, allowing another approach if that fails. Know anyone with a TIG welder?

    Edit; Is it a raised head? Get Vise-Grips onto it?

    EditEdit; It's ALLEN head. It's not correct terminology but you could at least spell it right. You're welcome

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by p.dath View Post
    I thought I had this nailed, until tonight when I had the last two bolts to remove and replace, and of course, I can't get the last bolt out (same issue, in so tight it is ripping the Allen head out). I tried the trick I used on the others, of hammer a torx head in and using a wrench to remove it, but that didn't work. And now I have stripped most of the meat out of the head.

    I was tossing up drilling the damaged Allren head out a little bit, running a tap into it, then put some super-glue onto another bolt and screw that into the damaged one using the newly created thread I have just made. Let the glue set over night and then try and get the whole lot out.

    What do you think?
    Has anyone mentioned easyouts as yet? Drill hole, insert the easyout (think of it as a left hand threaded cone) and turn. Quite strong these things are, go to your local toolstore and spend a few bucks. My set hardly ever gets used, but there's no substitute for when an EZYOUT is needed...

  4. #19
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    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	KD_Tools_720_5-Piece_Screw_Extractor_Set.jpg 
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    A lot of people think these ones (square) are better than the spiral type as they're less inclined to spread the bolt out.

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Madness View Post
    Your idea relies upon the super glue applied to your extracting bolt being stronger than what is likely a stud locking agent on a thread of a larger diameter - good luck with that. I'd be inclined to try a small square screw extractor first, allowing another approach if that fails. Know anyone with a TIG welder?

    Edit; Is it a raised head? Get Vise-Grips onto it?

    EditEdit; It's ALLEN head. It's not correct terminology but you could at least spell it right. You're welcome
    Negative, I don't have access to a TIG welder. Negative, the head is not raised so I could not get vice grips onto it.

    Quote Originally Posted by caspernz View Post
    Has anyone mentioned easyouts as yet? Drill hole, insert the easyout (think of it as a left hand threaded cone) and turn. Quite strong these things are, go to your local toolstore and spend a few bucks. My set hardly ever gets used, but there's no substitute for when an EZYOUT is needed...
    Good suggestions both of you. I'll try nipping down to Repco and getting one of these extractor tools.

  6. #21
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    this thread is o for awesome!

  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by nodrog View Post
    this thread is o for awesome!

    wrong

    this thread is now stripped
    "more than two strokes is masturbation"
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  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by gammaguy View Post
    wrong

    this thread is now stripped
    Oooohh, I'm hoping for some anti-clockwise action...

  9. #24
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    Have you tried a heat gun? If it is in fact a heavy grade threadlocker, then it is most likely designed to release under heat.
    Find out more at www.unluckyones.co.nz

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Lone Rider View Post
    Have you tried a heat gun? If it is in fact a heavy grade threadlocker, then it is most likely designed to release under heat.
    I don't have a heat gun, but the other issue is that the bolt also passes through plastic fairing. Hot hot does Loctite nead to get before it releases?

  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by p.dath View Post
    I don't have a heat gun, but the other issue is that the bolt also passes through plastic fairing. Hot hot does Loctite nead to get before it releases?
    Thats a tough call then.

    No idea what temp, but they say on the packets of that they either release with the use of hand tools, or use of heat + hand tools, or powered torque drivers.

    I know nothing of fairings, but as far as plastics it'd depend on if it was thermoset plastic. Couldn't tell you if it'd stuff the paint though.

    Maybe a soldering iron and a bit of patience, might be able to put a bit of transfer heat from the stuffed bolt head through to the thread?
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  12. #27
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    Can you please just drill the head off the L'N bolt, then remove mirror, then remove the bolt with some visegrips?

    thanks.

  13. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Lone Rider View Post
    Maybe a soldering iron and a bit of patience, might be able to put a bit of transfer heat from the stuffed bolt head through to the thread?
    I'll try a soldering iron first.

    Quote Originally Posted by nodrog View Post
    Can you please just drill the head off the L'N bolt, then remove mirror, then remove the bolt with some visegrips?

    thanks.
    Now I like the sound of that!

  14. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by p.dath View Post
    I'll try a soldering iron first.

    One last thing.. if you ever decide to pinch things up with loctite, and I suggest you do, don't ever put it on anything mating with plastic.

    Loctite corrodes many plastics, and for the plastics that it doesn't, the increaed mating load makes the plastic brittle and prone to coming apart once vibrated a lot.

    There is an article on liquid threadlockers in the April 2010 issue I believe, with comparative charts to other forms of fasteners.

    Edit -

    It was July 2010 issue. Got a Seconds one in high res print form on TM at the moment if interested.
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  15. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by nodrog View Post
    Can you please just drill the head off the L'N bolt, then remove mirror, then remove the bolt with some visegrips?

    thanks.
    I completed the removal of my problem bolt tonight.

    I tried using the EasyOut I got, but felt the amount of force I was needing to apply was too great, and I was at risk of making the problem worse. So I reverted to plan B as suggested by nodrog, and drilled the bolt head out (so the bolt head came off), removed the mirror, and then used some vice grips on the stub of the bolt that was left. Probably the most force I have ever had to apply to anything on a bike.

    Thanks for all the tips everyone.

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