Does it make a mess of the rear wheel if the excess is wiped away after applying it and if it's left overnight before riding it again?
Does it make a mess of the rear wheel if the excess is wiped away after applying it and if it's left overnight before riding it again?
Johnson's Baby Oil works wonders. Clean up the mess with Johnson's Baby Shampoo, just in case your rear wheel has delicate eyes...![]()
I think it would work ok. The secret with any lube is not excess. More frequent and less, is better than less frequent with more.
I usually get some primary sprocket drip (looks like a typical english bike leak) if I use too much.
I've been using chainsaw bar oil as it is meant to resist fling off. and does to a point.
A lot of people use proper chain wax and that is probably the most resistant to fling, but I can't quite understand how it actually lubes the rings if a solid (maybe when it heats it goes all slippery).
Originally Posted by FlangMaster
yea, when it heats up it gets pretty pliable, I use chain wax out of a spray can, comes out aerosol and forms on the chain etc then sorta dries up to wax. it lasts a long time and is pretty resistant to pickin up dirt.
lube it frequently. and clean between lubes.. dirt and grit is only gonna rob ya of chain life. you can clean the chain without removal if your patient enough.
Iv used chainsaw bar oil as mentioned earlier.. it flings off.. its not really that big a deal tho, your rear rim and tyre wall prob get grubby.. depending on how much is flinging off might be a bit greasy if u lean it all the way over.. but should wear off quickly
chainsaw oil is pricey tho, and infact most oils are - it'l fling off quicker and dirt sticks to it too.. may as well spend the 20 bucks on a can of proper chain wax - it will last you months - I'v had this can 12 months I recon.
I use a non O ring chain on my trials bike - wash in solvent and soak for a week in EP90, hang to drain for a day and fit to bike. No problem with oil flinging off of course, and after a day of mud and water it needs it all done again.
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Back in the day I used EP90, cheap & effective. You got to do it regularly though, oil the chain after a ride & wipe off the excess with an oily cloth. A hint of spooge-ing at most.
I used it to save money during the winter in the UK, 800 miles + every week riding on roads awash with grit & brine, bit like water blasting the bike with sea water, murder on chains so regular loobing was a must.
+1
I use a scottoiler on the VFR filled with ATF (automatic transmission fluid), way cheaper than the "proper" scott oil that is recommended, ATF works great!
Chains & cogs aint cheap!...so if a simple clean and regular lube will make them last about twice as long, why not make the effort?
My chain cleaning & lube method:
I use kerosene and an old tooth brush & rag to scrub the chain & cogs clean (Always remove the front cog cover!...heaps of greasy shit builds up in there)
I don't remove the chain, just take my time and scrub the filthy bugger till its nice and shiny clean
Then get some ATF and dribble over both the sides and the middle of the chain as I slowly rotate the wheel, once its completely covered (damn near dripping!), give the wheel heaps of slowish spins to ensure the oil gets into the nook & crannys etc, then wipe it clean with a rag.
Then I don't have to touch it again for weeks!, the scottoiler is set on a really low drip rate so the chain gets just a very light oiling on a ride, just enough to notice on the chain...result, bugger all "fling" and a nice smooth non jerky chain that should last twice as long![]()
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