Welding helmets need to be up to any particular specs?

[Padmei]

I got a new 2nd hand welder & am going to get a new or 2nd hand helmet. I borrowed Woodmans auto darkening one however I began not to trust it as it would suddenly decide to let lite thru.
I see there are many on Trademe & some cheap & was wondering if there are any standards that must be reached before a helmet can be sold in NZ.

[Rhys]

Just because it is being sold in NZ does not mean it meets any codes

[bogan]

I just got one from BOC, and nothing about any standards. I've also done a bit of TIGing with a helmet that let light through at inconvenient moments, fucking annoying that. Haven't done any tiging with the new one, but it has adjustable shades, so should do alright. Also, they reckon if you leave em out in the sun for a while it'll charge up and work better afterwards...

[Ocean1]

Is a bloody good question! I duno, although I've seen Std compliance ref's on the lenses...

FWIW the cheaper auto items are usually hard to live with. Half way up the quality range you get adjustments for sensitivity and shade and delay time, and with a TIG you need far more sensitivity as the output is much softer than the radiation a MIG puts out.

Short story: if you don't want to pay >$200 then don't bother with an auto.

[carburator]

the cheaper auto darken units are pretty crap..

I have a miller the boss has a Boc one only issue with the boc one is the controls are on the outside
and tend to be wiped out if your not careful or if you employ monkeys ( hell pay peanuts its what you get )

ARC eye is not great nor is doing a lot of spot mig welding with your eyes screwed closed either..

[The Lone Rider]

I have one of these - for mig and stick welding. Very happy with it.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/business-fa...-492258431.htm

[Akzle]

I got a new 2nd hand welder & am going to get a new or 2nd hand helmet. I borrowed Woodmans auto darkening one however I began not to trust it as it would suddenly decide to let lite thru.
I see there are many on Trademe & some cheap & was wondering if there are any standards that must be reached before a helmet can be sold in NZ.

weld better:
an auto-dark helmet will auto-dark in a matter of milliseconds... it will un-dark after a matter of seconds... if you're stop-starting welding, the glass can get confused -- ie if you stop welding, it's about to light, then start again...

there are ISO standards for welding helmets.

personally i find 11 (which seems to come standard on manual helmets) wayyyyyy to dark. (blind cunt) 9 is good.

[Padmei]

I have one of these - for mig and stick welding. Very happy with it.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/business-fa...-492258431.htm

Great link thanks. I hadn't seen any with any specs so i must have been looking at the cheapos. Being a tight barstard I def will shell out the extra coin for a good one if it saves my eyes

EDiT: Actually after looking, most of the helmets do have specs listed - I must just have ignored the fineprint & gone straight to the price

[pete-blen]

there are 2 types of auto darking helmets
ones the sence just light.. & ones the sence light & magnetic feild
from the weld..
The type of steel being welded can be a issue as well... stainless & alloy
can give probs as the light fequ can change from direct light from
the arc to refected light from the stainless or alloy..
Some helmets have blinkers instaled that are removeable most people don't
know they are there..what they do is direct the light sencers straight foward
so the helmet can't detect other light sorces ie.. other welders close..
so if thats not a issue remove the blinker.. then you head angle is not so important
for the sencers to pick up light...

[BoristheBiter]

there are 2 types of auto darking helmets
ones the sence just light.. & ones the sence light & magnetic feild
from the weld..
The type of steel being welded can be a issue as well... stainless & alloy
can give probs as the light fequ can change from direct light from
the arc to refected light from the stainless or alloy..
Some helmets have blinkers instaled that are removeable most people don't
know they are there..what they do is direct the light sencers straight foward
so the helmet can't detect other light sorces ie.. other welders close..
so if thats not a issue remove the blinker.. then you head angle is not so important
for the sencers to pick up light...

Yep what he said.
If you are moving your head around and block the sensor the helmet will think you have stopped welding.
The good ones will have two sensors so if you block one the other should still pick up the light.

there are some real shit auto helmets out there and yes you will get what you pay for. If you are not going to do a lot just use a flip top.

If you are going to get an auto one make sure it has three dials, sensitivity, delay and darkness.
darkness should be from 9 to 13, some only go to 11 buts most will be at 11 it is not really an issue unless you are going to mig over 300amps
sensitivity should be set so when you look at a light it turns on then just dial it back a bit. also the weld will activate after welding, if this happens turn it down a bit more.
Delay is how long it stays on after you stop and this is a bit more of a personal thing.

Also if you get a second hand one change the battery.

[Drew]

BOC are currently doing a promotion on an auto tint one. I grabbed one and have done a couple hours with it over the last two days. All adjustable for sensitivity and darkness, and hasn't done anything it shouldn't while I've been using it.

[jellywrestler]

I got a new 2nd hand welder & am going to get a new or 2nd hand helmet. I borrowed Woodmans auto darkening one however I began not to trust it as it would suddenly decide to let lite thru.
I see there are many on Trademe & some cheap & was wondering if there are any standards that must be reached before a helmet can be sold in NZ.

where do you keep it when not welding? to keep it charged it needs to be under a light eg flourescent light, i had the same problem when i stored mine under the bench, on top problem gone.

[The Lone Rider]

Great link thanks. I hadn't seen any with any specs so i must have been looking at the cheapos. Being a tight barstard I def will shell out the extra coin for a good one if it saves my eyes

EDiT: Actually after looking, most of the helmets do have specs listed - I must just have ignored the fineprint & gone straight to the price

Have had no problems with it.. has bells and whistles for adjustment

[BIG DOUG]

Brought the top miller auto darkening helmet when I was in the states it came with spare lens and the main thing is the batteries are easy to change,I've welded stainless,alloy and steel no probs

[Metal Doctor]

I've been a welder for 15+ years and auto-darkening helmets can be a pain in the arse! 3M speedglass lenses are fitted in many good helmets, but they do a cheap one and a good one. Cheap ones do flick on and off but it can be the enviroment you are welding in that causes this and how clean the lenses are. Some have a sensitivity setting which can help, and some have a grinding switch which turns the shade off.

The main thing i find is making sure the shade is correct. Arc welding produces smoke which lets less light trough where as TIG welding doesnt produce smoke therefore giving a brighter arc.

I always have a standard glass lense helmet for ark welding and only use an auto darkening for tig, this keeps my lenses clean for tig and reduces the risk of it flickering. it also makes a good back up if auto stops working.