Do you need an unmolested airbox?
Do you need an unmolested airbox?
No, unless there are different sized boxes to match the different carb sizes
Just went out and manage to work out the puzzle of taking off the swing arm.
Really need to start referring to manual more often.
Sattahip District, Chonburi.
Nice, might look em upprobably some dodgy part of town...
Started cleaning the frame and came across what i hoped would be ok; the lower shock mount.
Its a common problem on RGV's and if you own one you should really keep an eye out for cracks in this area.
I will take it into town today to get welded and have the other bike to strip down today too.
naw guts, i was checkin all that on the ape too while frame n swing arm is bare.. looks good but italian welds are messy! balls of snot and splatter everywhere..
I noticed I have what look like tiny hairline cracks on the crank cases tho (of both motors, got 2 now).. is that normal ish anyone know? no proper cracks/leaks or anything just look like hair line marks.
Blade has it too on the block..
Its really hard to tell the difference between mold marks and cracks, sure its not just that?
Anyone willing to take a guess at what chambers i have, they have no markings on them...
![]()
Has been a busy day working on the bikes.
Took the frame to get welded back up as well as the oem exhaust with the broken mount and the oil reservoir mount on the sub frame.
Hopefully it will be ready tomorrow to pick up.
I paint stripped the exhausts and are ready to be painted.
Pulled the motor out of the new bike:
Found a crack on the rear engine mount:
Finally got a good look at the damage from the chain breaking:
Looks like its pushed the gear shaft down and the crank casing tried to go with it.
I will have to put that gearbox into one of the other engines.
I was planning on using the disc off the new bike but noticed they had a bit of play in them, the rivets were a little loose. Is this normal or should they be rigid?
This is were i got to before i came in for dinner:
As soon as i get the frame back from being welded i will be almost ready to start building it back up.
Also what are the better tyres; Pilot powers or battlax's?
This morning i have stripped down the sub frame and washed it and the swing arm.
Im going to head to pitlane soon to get them to check out the front discs and then i will start fiberglassing up the seat cowl and buy some paint for the exhausts, silencers and a few other bits.
Does anyone know what the better SAPC unit is: 22D20 or 22D00?
1. 22d10... used in the RGV250 SP. Has a bit more pre-ignition than the others and a different switching for the two solenoid valves.
2. 22d30... This box only opens the pilot air valve between 500-2000 rpm, and is the most common un-restricted SAPC box available.
3. 22d60... restricted box (who cares what it does, only provides 45bhp).
4. 22d90... German market box (anti pollution laws), but it's comparable to the 23d00, but the switching of the pilot air system stop in "neutral", 5th, and 6th gears.
5. 23d00... another German model, opens the pilot air valve between 2k-6k rpm, the pre-ignition and the switching of the main air solenoid valves is the same as the 22d30.
6. 23d70... Aprilia ignition box. It was derived from the 23d10, but they changed the ignition timing to be slightly retarded compared to the race-kit box, and modified the opening times of the power-valves. It has 4 degrees of pre-ignition, but with the 5 degree ignition advancer kit (FZR400 woodruff key) it would produce almost the same advance curve as the 23d10. NOTE: Having now run the box back to back with a 22D30 on the dyno
(Jan 05) no difference could be found. I wonder if the Aprilia "tweaks" are just urban myth?
7. 23d10... Suzuki race-kit ignition box which superseded the original 22d50 Has 10-14 degrees pre-ignition and a different valve control. Normally the valves are opened in two steps, whereas the 23d10 opens them in a smooth continuous manner. The switching of the solenoid valves is the same as the 22d10.
8. 23d60 Another Kit box, replacing the 23d10. If you use your bike on the road do not fit a kit one, all the benefit is at the top end so you will not use it on the road. Also they are designed to run high octane fuel so you will get detonation problems running a standard engine on pump fuel. The 60 has slightly less top end but a bigger mid range as the curves are slightly different. They all control the air solenoids differently to the road boxes so need big jetting changes to run. They also all open the exhaust vales gradually and not in steps as per the road box.
that didnt have the number u posted actually.. this one has one of them I think...
The 5 jap wet clutch bikes are the Rgv250 L,M,N,P and R.
Rgv250 L Standard gearbox,22d00 sac unit, Mikuni 32mm carbs,45hp.Frame number VJ22A-100056~
Rgv250 M Standard gearbox,22d60 sapc unit, Mikuni 30mm carbs,45hp.Frame number VJ22A-108074~
Rgv250 N Standard gearbox,22d60 sapc unit, Mikuni 30mm carbs,45hp.Frame number VJ22A-114635~
Rgv250 P Standard gearbox,23d30 sapc unit, Mikuni 30mm carbs,45hp.Frame number VJ22A-120119~
Rgv250 R Standard gearbox,23d30 sapc unit, Mikuni 30mm carbs,40hp.Frame number ?
Rgv250 FL Close ratio gearbox,22d20 sapc unit, Miukuni 34mm carbs and produce's 45hp.Frame number VJ22A-100066~
Rgv250 L Standard gearbox,22d00 sac unit, Mikuni 32mm carbs,45hp.Frame number VJ22A-100056~
couple differences so I guess depends what the bike is gonna be like when u build it? one sapc is used on a bike with diff carbs and gear box..
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)
Bookmarks