Originally Posted by Grumph
The main reason behind the Britten front end patter, was due to the carbon girders being to rigid, but YES, the rod ends did take a hell of a hammering, and needed changing often.
Forum whore
The main reason behind the Britten front end patter, was due to the carbon girders being to rigid, but YES, the rod ends did take a hell of a hammering, and needed changing often.
Low personal B.M.E.P.
I thought that would provoke a reply from you...Interesting answer. Is that the accepted reason now as last time i talked to anyone they still reckoned it was the rod ends...Never got an answer to the question of exactly when - at what point in the turn - it started to patter, either.
Forum whore
I am not 100% on the general opinion to be honest, but after my year on it, and testing many many different styles of build of them, the patter only ever got worse from the original designed one's. A big problem with the Britten program was, not enough notes were recorded from the many different riders to come to any real conclusions. As you would understand, there are theories, and then there is on track reality, which comes down to rider feel and the stop watch I guess. Patter with the original ones, would normally begin between tip in, and full lean, but then using the 2 different styles that I tested for them, it would cause head shakes and patter in a straight line even, to the point of being near on lethal, especially at the TT with the hammering a bike takes there. It was like a small rubber bush inside another rubber to try and absorb the shock, but this design only exaggerated the problem with the patter. All the boys involved in it were good, but I personally would listen to GUY re the Britten, over any one else involved with it.
i'm motarded
Dude you need to show it the love.
see, I cant understand why everybody else thinks your a cunt.
chur.
where?
In the riders seat
I'm talking about the front of the long bikes with parallelogram front end, bushes in the bottom pivot and rod ends at the top which give you caster adjustment
"If you can make black marks on a straight from the time you turn out of a corner until the braking point of the next turn, then you have enough power."
Ta
I thought they had four rod ends. So you could adjust the offset too. Guess I remembered wrong.
Ta
I haven't done skids on it, that's fucken love?
i'm motarded
cool, I'd like to at least see it before its broken
Ta
I can't promise I won't break it, I just won't be riding it.cool, I'd like to at least see it before its broken
In the riders seat
This is the LCR fuel tank from the two stroke era, should be good for forty laps, lets do some endurance racing
I think when Dave priced up going to a smaller 20L tank it was about $2500
"If you can make black marks on a straight from the time you turn out of a corner until the braking point of the next turn, then you have enough power."
i'm motarded
are you giving away those gold rims?This is the LCR fuel tank from the two stroke era, should be good for forty laps, lets do some endurance racing
Ta
I'm keen. We've got space to make our tank hold another five or ten litres.
Low personal B.M.E.P.
A guy down here brought in two sets, I've got the other set...They're motard wheels - dirt bike hubs which are quite wide and awkward.
No cush on the rear, chain line very wide, lateral thinking and some machining required to get it in far enough for a "normal" chain line.
Front has a big PCD for the single disc too, very limiting...
But, they are RS125 widths....
tank size....check out replacement cell liners for the speedway cars. Should be something smaller at a lower price surely.
In the riders seat
Yes, giving them away for $400 2.5 x 17 front and 3.5 x 17 rear, wire wheels
"If you can make black marks on a straight from the time you turn out of a corner until the braking point of the next turn, then you have enough power."
i'm motarded
I've found a zxr400 wheel with sprocket and disk that may work.
thats pretty cheap.
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