It would seem not.
Here we go, one half of the 650 uniflow block
It would seem not.
Here we go, one half of the 650 uniflow block
That last pattern is for a 360cc cylinder, used on the microlite engine but now also being used on my new project. 360cc two stroke engine in a YZ250F frame, EFI, reverse cylinder, vairable rotary valve induction running on E85. Sorry yes I'll post else where, I don't want to rail road the thread.
Cool images and concept. I have seen these around before, just hadn't taken much notice.
The roots blower works, it is sitting on my bench awaiting a couple of new parts to try make it more efficient, and the centrifugal one is more of a engineering challenge than for the bike to be honest, but I do hope once I get it working I will be able to get some really good efficiency out of it.
One thing I can say is that making boost, and high levels of it with small light weight units is not easy!
It's not that bloody easy with big, heavy units either....and when you do finally achieve enough boost to be useful, then you will find the weak points of the base motor....Carry on.
And I repeat...solid drive the bastard with a starter clutch in the drive to let it overrun....
Sketchy, would you be talking about teflon tip seals? I used those in mine and they certainly helped. You fit them to interfere with the housing and lobes ( just a little bit ) and they machine / smudge them selves in. My super charger had helical gears so they could be shimmed against each other to move one rotor against the other for clearance adjustment. Roots chargers are good for that bark off the mark, out of corners etc. 14 psi is where you want to be. Hey I'm not trying to tell you how to suck eggs.
Yeah, that is what i'll do if I cant get any success from this one soon. But even that will have it challenges it's hard to find bearings that will be happy at 200,000 RPM
A toothed belt drive is another option, Powerdyne use them on their superchargers, admitedly not very reliable but for me if a $10 belt lasts a day of racing that'll be good enough. Again an overrun clutch will be compulsory
Yep, I need to make new rotors that will accept tip seals and also want to try putting a guide in the outlet port of the charger.
The gears on mine are taper locked and I have a jig that holds everything in place while I tighten things up, but It lets me set the clearance where I like.
Sketchy, what fuel pump are you using? How big is it, what flow, what amps draw, can it handle E85?
I'm using a Bosch car unit on a Kawasaki I have but it's sucking up 4.5 amps all the time. Charging system can't keep up under four to five thousand revs. I'm getting the stator rewound for better charge at lower rev's but it would be nice to find another pump that's smaller and lighter.
I'm running the fuel pump that came with the EFI kit at the moment, it draws 2 Amps, runs 3Bar and 25L/H. I'm running total loss and plan on using a Lithium battery once I get everything working so I can have a reasonable amount of power to run the bike without the weight.
I will be binning the fuel pump for an in the tank one so I can get rid of all the hoses running around the place.
Adapting a hp oil pump or feed is something you could whip up over smoko Glenn You know it true.(not for me though) i actually have a have 2x volume Takikawa one here for a CRF50 any good to you? should be easy to mount but there will be easier ways the stuff for the LCR150 slat flat bike modded the oil feed and pump for a xl125 quite simply from memory. you could mount in direct of the stator if you wanted too not rework the whole oiling system.Actually there is a few turbos with self contained oiling isn't there? can't remember what they are though?
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Kinky is using a feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken
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