Forced induction 100cc

[speights_bud]

Have you looked into using telfon sleeves? They are mich lighter than a conventional bearing & probably similar in price or cheaper. we used them in our glue pumps, they run pretty hot pumping melted hot glue at the packaging factories and lasted ages when running with a hardened EN36a shaft.

These are what i meant:

http://www.asbbearings.com/steel_backed_bearings.html

[ducatilover]

Why not just use a compressed air tank?

I want a million PSI all the time, spoke snapping power.

[carburator]

Why not just use a compressed air tank?

why not make the bike frame a conceded NOS tank and pump in giggle gas..
at the overtaking moment..

[Sketchy_Racer]

On the Martin blowers one end of the case had the bearings on the inside of the end plate - normal journal ballraces, running sealed.
The other - drive - end had seals and bearings outside in the gear cavity. Endfloat set by shimming at the drive end.

I can't believe you didn't design it around an available gear pair.....you're a glutton for punishment mate..Yeah, straight cut bronze will last longer than the motor...

That injection setup looks feasible.

Have you looked at Irvings Automobile Engine Tuning ? The old bugger knew a few things and there's quite a bit in there about blowing singles.

My design is just using deep groove bearings, with the shafts floating so as they heat up they don't bind up the bearings.

I am happy to make the gear set, this project is all about learning some new stuff and I have never done gear cutting before, well, I have setup and ran a program before on the mill but never designed and manufactured the gear set myself.

I am getting excited about the fuel injection system, I have done some google searching and they seem to have a good review so may bite the bullet and give it a shot.

No havnt read the book, will add to the list of ones to read along with the one Yowling suggested earlier.

These are what i meant:

http://www.asbbearings.com/steel_backed_bearings.html

Ah yeah I know the stuff, got it at work, you think it would be up for 10K plus RPM?

[bogan]

Won't floating shafts mean the rotor ends will contact the housing? Twin angular contact with a shim between em at one end to fix it, and a deep groove at the other would keep it all in position.

And won't a given gear modulus give a range of discrete pitch circles? Seems that wouldn't be so good for setting rotor clearances.

[pete376403]

Won't floating shafts mean the rotor ends will contact the housing? Twin angular contact with a shim between em at one end to fix it, and a deep groove at the other would keep it all in position.

And won't a given gear modulus give a range of discrete pitch circles? Seems that wouldn't be so good for setting rotor clearances.

Start with the drive gears and a known shaft spacing then make the rotor clearances to suit?

[speights_bud]

Ah yeah I know the stuff, got it at work, you think it would be up for 10K plus RPM?

Prolly not eh, though if run with lubricant on a non contact basis why not? similar principal to white metal bearings?

Also make your first set of gears from ally and work with the two of them on your centers to get the desired tooth span measurement across the pitch line that works and stops the rotors from binding/colliding on backlash.

[Sketchy_Racer]

Prolly not eh, though if run with lubricant on a non contact basis why not? similar principal to white metal bearings?

Also make your first set of gears from ally and work with the two of them on your centers to get the desired tooth span measurement across the pitch line that works and stops the rotors from binding/colliding on backlash.

Yeah I decided to stick with my plan of running sealed deep groove ball bearings. Cheap as chips $9.00 each and the rating for them is 20k RPM which is more than I need and the load ratings exceed anything I plan on putting through them.

Finished making the shafts and gear blanks today, just have to turn the nuts to retain the gears. The gears and shaft have a JT3 taper (same as inside a Jacob's drill chuck) as it was close to my shaft size and the 3 degree taper on them does a good job.

I have also made a mandrel for cutting the gears so I will be able to take them off check for fit and if to tight take a second cut (just using the tool at original position to gain orientation back)

Need to hunt down a 1 MOD cutter otherwise I'll just have to drop the tooth count to 24 as the only cutter I have at the moment is a 1.5 MOD

Really happy with the fits on the shafts, a nice transition fit to make sure the is no binding under heat.

I have also upgraded the size of studs for the head to take care of the extra pressure, originals were M6 so have now made them M8 with recoils inserted into the cases for extra strength there.

The inner Rotor kit turned up today, pretty impressed for $50 I would recommend these to anyone with a big old heavy flywheel, can't believe I never through about using them on the old two strokes.

So the motor lost a kilo by changing the flywheel and also the small flywheel gives me heaps of space behind it to mount the pulley drive for the charger. It's really close to the main bearing also which is great as it will support it well.

I'm still waiting for the Piston a Sleeve to arrive so I can measure up my comp ratio but while i've got it apart I am going to slot the cam sprocket so I can clock that in (although will be limited with the single cam) and also take a lot of material out of the exhaust port. It has a good sized valve but the port is terrible. I was going to look at going up in valve size but once reduced to 100cc I will have no space against the bore so it will have to live with what it has got. I'm not worried about the valve train as I only plan to run this to a peak of 12k and they seem the handle the stock 13.5K rev limiter well in the pitbikes (used to have one)

Oh also had a play round last night adding some pockets and ribs into the solid model for the charger assy, I have now got it down to 1.5kg which is awesome! I was hoping for 2 as the AMR300 is 2.8

Material turned up for the body of the charged assembly so I will start that tomorrow if work is quiet.

again some more pictures, nothing exciting though sorry.

The last picture is my attempt at some ally welding, never done it before and plan on welding up a plenum and possibly a chopped up intercooler so though I better learn how.

Cheers,

-Sketchy

[Sketchy_Racer]

Here is a picture of the gear assembly, ignore the fact that it is missing all the bearings and cover plates, this was just to check the gear mesh with a 24 tooth gear looks like it will work ok and I don't care how noisy the gears are.

[Sketchy_Racer]

Won't floating shafts mean the rotor ends will contact the housing? Twin angular contact with a shim between em at one end to fix it, and a deep groove at the other would keep it all in position.

And won't a given gear modulus give a range of discrete pitch circles? Seems that wouldn't be so good for setting rotor clearances.

To answer, the way the bearings are captured means that they are fixed and the beauty of deep groove ball bearings is that they are desinged to take a small amount of axial thrust. I have stolen the concept of my bearing layout from the gearbox I rebuilt in my old Nissan 4x4. It used the same concept with captured bearings with shims to control the back lash in the gear set.

Not quite sure what you mean by the second question, if you mean the during the meshing of the two gears as they roatate there might be a velocity variation between the two shafts? I don't think so as that is the design of the involute spur gear, but lets say there is, even so the two shaft are still going to be fixed in position to each other maintaining rotor clearances.

Cheers,

-Sketchy

[jonbuoy]

Most interesting thread on KB in, well - ever?

[Sketchy_Racer]

Most interesting thread on KB in, well - ever?

Haha thanks I guess.

Tomorrow I will hopefully get to make the body, I will try catch some video of the programming, setup and machining processes of the manufacturing of that part

[speights_bud]

The inner Rotor kit turned up today, pretty impressed for $50 I would recommend these to anyone with a big old heavy flywheel, can't believe I never through about using them on the old two strokes.

So the motor lost a kilo by changing the flywheel and also the small flywheel gives me heaps of space behind it to mount the pulley drive for the charger. It's really close to the main bearing also which is great as it will support it well.

And you go tell everyone about the secret parts i've put in my Loncin Engine.... damn you... i saved over 1200g's of rotating mass!

[bogan]

To answer, the way the bearings are captured means that they are fixed and the beauty of deep groove ball bearings is that they are desinged to take a small amount of axial thrust. I have stolen the concept of my bearing layout from the gearbox I rebuilt in my old Nissan 4x4. It used the same concept with captured bearings with shims to control the back lash in the gear set.

Not quite sure what you mean by the second question, if you mean the during the meshing of the two gears as they roatate there might be a velocity variation between the two shafts? I don't think so as that is the design of the involute spur gear, but lets say there is, even so the two shaft are still going to be fixed in position to each other maintaining rotor clearances.

Cheers,

-Sketchy

Yeh I've actually got a similar setup for a spindle at the moment, just put a .006in shim between two deep groove bearings and it reduces the lash to SFA, however I'm pretty sure it is giving higher friction than angular contact would in the same setup; pressure angles and whatnot I guess.

I haven't done much with gears, but it was my understanding that a given number of teeth of certain modulus will have only one optimum pitch circle diameter. Or can you just cut deeper/shallower as required?

[Sketchy_Racer]

Yeh I've actually got a similar setup for a spindle at the moment, just put a .006in shim between two deep groove bearings and it reduces the lash to SFA, however I'm pretty sure it is giving higher friction than angular contact would in the same setup; pressure angles and whatnot I guess.

I haven't done much with gears, but it was my understanding that a given number of teeth of certain modulus will have only one optimum pitch circle diameter. Or can you just cut deeper/shallower as required?

Yeah I guess if you wanted to get really serious then angular contact would be the way, however in this case I think she'll be sweet mane

My gear understanding is also very basic, and yes as far as I know there is a recommendation for the tooth count and module relative to the Pitch circle but the addendum and dedenddum is fixed to your module and your module selection is just your pitch circle / tooth count. Strictly speaking I should need a 1.6 module but 1.5 is close enough

I think the 24 tooth gear will work , got some bronze for it and the blanks turned up so will just make a set and see how we go.