Race trailer build?

[DEATH_INC.]

Make the rear door fold up in the middle so it's twice the length...easy.

[DEATH_INC.]

oo, some support for 17's haha! i want them just cause they look better and the tow cars have got 17's

but 14's did make sense with tyre choice and cost.. although that doesnt bother me tooo much, what i was more worried about was leaf springs plus low profile tyres will have the thing bouncing around and getting airborne..

If ya towie has 17's, then use the same, and same stud pattern and offset, then you can share the spare wheel too.
All My trailers have had shocks, takes care of the bouncing

[Tony.OK]

Either a curved (fiberglass ??) then raise the door to level to roll into/out of the trailer.

yea thats worth looking at if we can't make a ramp solution that avoids bottoming out.

Then you can just mount a couple of pulleys and have your winch do the lifting/lowering of the rear door.

[Flip]

It just needs a stripper pole and it would be prefect.

[HenryDorsetCase]

yea thats worth looking at if we can't make a ramp solution that avoids bottoming out.

you would need some big ass springs (like off a garage door) but you could make the rear door double, so it was twice as long. Hinged in the middle so it dropped down. Expensive and heaby though

[speights_bud]

Or just raise the front of the trailer to drop the rear using a good sturdy jockey wheel for loading. But it does mean disconnecting from your tow vehicle unless you build it with a tip system

[Mental Trousers]

Or just raise the front of the trailer to drop the rear using a good sturdy jockey wheel for loading. But it does mean disconnecting from your tow vehicle unless you build it with a tip system

I just stick a trolley jack under the tow ball and lift it up. Stops the bike bottoming out and I don't need to disconnect the trailer.

[bogan]

you would need some big ass springs (like off a garage door) but you could make the rear door double, so it was twice as long. Hinged in the middle so it dropped down. Expensive and heaby though

Better idea, have one side fold out into an awning type thing, hook a wire cable from the awning through some pulleys to the rear door, bam, counterweighted door!

[Fast Eddie]

Make the rear door fold up in the middle so it's twice the length...easy.
If ya towie has 17's, then use the same, and same stud pattern and offset, then you can share the spare wheel too.
All My trailers have had shocks, takes care of the bouncing

Sold! yep tow car has 17 5 studs so I went ahead and got myself 2 cheap 17" 5 spoke rims to match the tow car, can share spare now too! fantastic. Will look into some cheap shocks if the thing is too bouncy. Rims came with brand new tyres so that solves tyres for now.. common 5 X 100 hubs anyway so sure I can find 15" or 14" in that stud pattern if the 17's are awful.
Yea rear door idea not too bad, might be heavy. but will look into it for sure.

Then you can just mount a couple of pulleys and have your winch do the lifting/lowering of the rear door.

phew getting technical haha.. prob have to make whatever the pulleys mount to very strong... thats in the maybe basket for now haha

It just needs a stripper pole and it would be prefect.

can be arranged. removeable during transit

you would need some big ass springs (like off a garage door) but you could make the rear door double, so it was twice as long. Hinged in the middle so it dropped down. Expensive and heaby though

yep, I can see how it would work and is in the maybe basket. Weight would be an issue for sure.

Or just raise the front of the trailer to drop the rear using a good sturdy jockey wheel for loading. But it does mean disconnecting from your tow vehicle unless you build it with a tip system

will have a good jockey wheel on it for sure, but then generally the trailer just tips right up anyway.. its how a fellow sidecar racer 'the capitan' unloads his outfit. unhooks his trailer and just tips it up and lets the trailer shoot out from underneath it. he gets his swinger to do it usually..

I just stick a trolley jack under the tow ball and lift it up. Stops the bike bottoming out and I don't need to disconnect the trailer.

Good idea actually, cheap and effective

Better idea, have one side fold out into an awning type thing, hook a wire cable from the awning through some pulleys to the rear door, bam, counterweighted door!

Come again... we are having one side of the trailer fold out like u say (thats the plan anyway.) but.. that would be on a 90 degree angle to the rear door.. not too much stress on the pully having that change of direction as well?..
in the maybe basket lol.. the awning was really just going to be canvas with little nipples on the roof of trailer for it to hook onto on trailer roof and then extend out and held up by a couple of poles. should cover enough area to house
a couple bikes/chairs/work bench etc.

cheers fellas.

got the hubs/stubs/leafs/coupling and wheel arches and wheels bought/ordered. So should be rolling next weekend if there is time to crack welder out.

We almost went with 100mm drop axle, but 170 bucks for 2 drop links, gonna hold off now - still on track for the under 1k budget build... can always retro fit them if the trailer is too high.

[Mental Trousers]

Make the rear door fold up in the middle so it's twice the length...easy.

Yea rear door idea not too bad, might be heavy. but will look into it for sure.

If you've got a winch in it for the chair then once you've loaded the outfit run the cable up to a pulley on the roof then down to the ramp.

[Fast Eddie]

If you've got a winch in it for the chair then once you've loaded the outfit run the cable up to a pulley on the roof then down to the ramp.

sounds easy. only thing to go wrong would be whatever the pulley is mounted to is not strong enough. sure we can sort that out.

overall weight is definitely coming into play now..

[Kickaha]

overall weight is definitely coming into play now..

Eat less pies then you fat cunt

[Fast Eddie]

Eat less pies then you fat cunt

lol, I got myself a road bike (push bike) starting to fit into the leathers better.. sort of..

all the bits and pieces arrived end of last week from Stanza Trailers up north - I recommend John hes great to deal with and with the best prices (even with north to south island freight included) I found during my quick hunt for bits.

Got the springs, hardware, hubs, stubs, coupling and any associated bits, bearings for the hubs etc. All up 350.00 including freight to south island. Freight took less than 3 days, Think it left on a wednesday and arrived friday morning.

Frame is done I think, dunno if we need more strength but should be pretty strong! draw bar and coupling on tomorrow weather permitting. been rainy as.. And then chuck the springs and wheels and axle on after the next race weekend.



So far:

Steel - 350.00 (with some left over still)
Stubs/Hubs/Springs/Coupling and associated bits - 355.00 incl freight
17" Wheels with near new tyres - 100.00
Lights/Wiring - 50.00

Total: 855.00

I could have shaved 50 bucks off tyres and rims by going some of the cheaper options of 14" and 13" steelies but flag, this way I have same rims and tyres as tow car. and looks better than steelies.

The decking is going to push the budget up - thinking of ply for lack of a better idea. How thick? I was going for the 20mm thick zone but maybe overkill?
Is there cheaper/stronger decking options?

Anyway its about 100 per sheet of the thick stuff, could save some money by going thinner. 2.4m X 1.2m sheets.. the trailer is measuring in at 3.6m long by 2m wide deck space. prob need 3 sheets, so say another 300 bucks for deck.

And then there is reg and wof.. still not sure on costs but going to assume about 50 for a wof and the govt site said 98 bucks for 12 month rego?

so safe to say will prob overshoot the 1k budget and hit about 1300 dollar mark. But meh, 1300 bucks for a new trailer with that big of a useable deck area I'm still happy.

Enclosure will be started a week or two after reg and woffing the trailer and making sure it tows good and can load the bike on easy etc.

[FJRider]

Marine 5 ply on the deck. Marine 3 ply on the sides. The roof ... light sheet aluminium or steel.

[Fast Eddie]

Marine 5 ply on the deck. Marine 3 ply on the sides. The roof ... light sheet aluminium or steel.

good man.

photos when shes rollin or close to it.