Race trailer build?

[Fast Eddie]

Just getting a foot in the door, building a trailer for racing cause its easier (and much cheaper) than trying to find and buy one to fulfill all your needs

Features we hope to include (cost permitting):
- Fully enclosed
- Fold down work bench(s)
- Once unloaded trailer to open up a bit on the sides too for easy access to tools and work bench space whilst at race track, also some nipples on the roof to hook a tarp onto that will extend out like an awning to cover/shelter area next to trailer when all set up at pits.
- Winch so you can load and unload bikes and sidecar on and off trailer by yourself
- Onboard fuel tank and pump (flag carrying around a bunch of plastic jerry cans, I have a habit of dropping them and cracking them anyway)
- A fold down bed idea for out of town racing events where no other accomodation is available
- Proper spare race wheels and tyres storage, storage for fairings, storage for tools and spares, so everything can be stored out of the way and not have to be moved to get a bike in or out.
- plug sockets, lights in trailer (maybe one or two pointing to the outside/awning area too), either with its power coming from a generator which we would have to buy, or maybe a bank of batteries.. got some truck batteries lying around which are good. bugger charging them all the time though?

(If anyone has cool ideas throw them out there, may incorporate them.)

Will see how much of that we actually manage though. Build the frame and get it on some wheels and towing first as a flat deck then will build the enclosure and rest of it.. anything that ends up being too pricey to implement we will probably scap.



The sidecar itself is going to get a respray and some work done to it too, so there will be another thread!.. jeez.. too many

[bogan]

- plug sockets, lights in trailer (maybe one or two pointing to the outside/awning area too), either with its power coming from a generator which we would have to buy, or maybe a bank of batteries.. got some truck batteries lying around which are good. bugger charging them all the time though?

Lighting you would get away with high eff LED lights and a battery, just trickle charge it through the trailer plug. Depending on the draw/duration, you should be able to get some 240V inverter time there too, and 12V automotive winch and fuel pump would be easy enough. Nice idea with the trailer tank btw.

[nodrog:Me]

(If anyone has cool ideas throw them out there, may incorporate them.)

one of these to help tow all that shit around

http://image.hotrod.com/f/37391355/h...der-engine.jpg

[scott411]

could see the fuel tank issue causing more hassle than what its worth, a pump to get it to the bike would be a pain,

alot of the motocross riders have built trailers, i like the idea of working out of the side of it with a bench that folds down, i would also make it as low as possible with maybe having a pop up roof as they get very slow and expensive to tow if they are to tall,

[FJRider]

could see the fuel tank issue causing more hassle than what its worth, a pump to get it to the bike would be a pain,

alot of the motocross riders have built trailers, i like the idea of working out of the side of it with a bench that folds down, i would also make it as low as possible with maybe having a pop up roof as they get very slow and expensive to tow if they are to tall,

12 volt electric pump, and a switch at the nozzle end of the (6 meter) line. SORTED.

[Fast Eddie]

Lighting you would get away with high eff LED lights and a battery, just trickle charge it through the trailer plug. Depending on the draw/duration, you should be able to get some 240V inverter time there too, and 12V automotive winch and fuel pump would be easy enough. Nice idea with the trailer tank btw.

Cheers bro, that is useful info indeed. You recon having maybe 2 decent batteries on the trailer would trickle charge thru plug from cars altenator? and would those be enough to run lights and a plug socket so we can plug like an angle grinder or laptop and even an air compressor into? those or the only things we really need power for that I can think of off the top of my head. power tools, laptop and the air comp. the fuel pump already runs off a tiny battery as we have one in the ute, 300litre diesel tank and pump hehe. weighs the ute down a bit!

one of these to help tow all that shit around

http://image.hotrod.com/f/37391355/h...der-engine.jpg

F*ck yea.. been watching tractor pulling on ESPN lately..

could see the fuel tank issue causing more hassle than what its worth, a pump to get it to the bike would be a pain,

alot of the motocross riders have built trailers, i like the idea of working out of the side of it with a bench that folds down, i would also make it as low as possible with maybe having a pop up roof as they get very slow and expensive to tow if they are to tall,

Cheers bro, yea we already have a pump and hoses and nozzle to use (have already trialled the idea on a ute with a 300L diesel tank on the back and pump) so it will have a fairly long hose with a fuel pump nozzle exac same as u get at a gas station. u just turn pump on.. take the hose over to the bike (hose is a good few meters long) and pull the lever and it pumps, when tank is full let go of lever couldn't be easier, much easier than pouring out of a jerry can too!

and duly noted about height and wind drag I have been thinking about that a lot.. would be nice to be able to stand up inside it when we go to the north island for events though, I plan to sleep in it.. bench top will double as cook top hehe

[St_Gabriel]

Cheers bro, yea we already have a pump and hoses and nozzle to use (have already trialled the idea on a ute with a 300L diesel tank on the back and pump) so it will have a fairly long hose with a fuel pump nozzle exac same as u get at a gas station. u just turn pump on.. take the hose over to the bike (hose is a good few meters long) and pull the lever and it pumps, when tank is full let go of lever couldn't be easier, much easier than pouring out of a jerry can too!

You might like to confirm with the supplier/manufacturer that it is also rated for petrol as well as the diesel, two totally different animals and the potential for "really bad consequences" if it isnt safe. I am thinking along the lines of intrinsically safe motors, switches and wiring as opposed to the plastic tanks chemical resistance (which may also be an issue). You also need to ensure that the nozzle is electrically bonded to the hose and that the hose is electrically bonded to tank/motor (usually done during manufacture if the hose is intended for use with flammable goods but not necessarily done for diesel).

[bogan]

Cheers bro, that is useful info indeed. You recon having maybe 2 decent batteries on the trailer would trickle charge thru plug from cars altenator? and would those be enough to run lights and a plug socket so we can plug like an angle grinder or laptop and even an air compressor into? those or the only things we really need power for that I can think of off the top of my head. power tools, laptop and the air comp. the fuel pump already runs off a tiny battery as we have one in the ute, 300litre diesel tank and pump hehe. weighs the ute down a bit!

My experience with inverters isn't too good. For that sort of stuff, I'd recomend a 12V compressor, and either a cordless angle grinder (I know the hitachi ones go hard) or and air powered one. Then you would get away with a low current 240v inverter for laptops and cordless grinder chargers if needed. However, anything you use an inverter for, make sure it is ok with a square wave source (unless you get a fancy sin wave inverter), some things like soldering irons and cordless battery chargers will shit themselves if used with a square wave inverter.

Regarding charging it, it depends how much use you get out of them, if they are drained quite deeply it would probably be a good idea to regulate their charging so you don't put too much demand on the alternator. House-buses have a similar setup, so see how they do things I guess.

[Fast Eddie]

You might like to confirm with the supplier/manufacturer that it is also rated for petrol as well as the diesel..

yea well we are using new items for the trailer tank, was just saying we have the general setup on the ute. big 300litre tank, a pump and fuel hoses with a fuel pump nozzle at the end. it works brilliant.

We will of course use all new parts for the trailer and its petrol tank - diesel tank stays in ute, it is used for refueling the harvester when on other peoples farms etc.. or just not stopping for gas when doing a long drive in the ute haha!

cheers for the tips though, will make sure no static/sparks etc can happen.

[scott411]

You might like to confirm with the supplier/manufacturer that it is also rated for petrol as well as the diesel, two totally different animals and the potential for "really bad consequences" if it isnt safe. I am thinking along the lines of intrinsically safe motors, switches and wiring as opposed to the plastic tanks chemical resistance (which may also be an issue). You also need to ensure that the nozzle is electrically bonded to the hose and that the hose is electrically bonded to tank/motor (usually done during manufacture if the hose is intended for use with flammable goods but not necessarily done for diesel).

this was more what i was on about, but you seem to be on top of it, you are not ment to have petrol containers for ferry crossings but they are easy to hide, and we used to carry and empty one to show the ferry staff on the odd occasion you got searched

and it may be worth having a filter before or after the pump depending on if the tank will be inside the trailer or outside it, as things like condensation can get into the fuel,

[FJRider]

and duly noted about height and wind drag I have been thinking about that a lot.. would be nice to be able to stand up inside it when we go to the north island for events though, I plan to sleep in it.. bench top will double as cook top hehe

A pop-top hard top roof would sort that issue out ... and sling a hammock, they are comfortable and don't take up much space when not in use. Only a few minutes to put up too.

[Fast Eddie]

My experience with inverters isn't too good. For that sort of stuff, I'd recomend a 12V compressor...

good man, all taken into consideration

Actual towing/or how the trailer tows - 17" mag wheels on low profile tyres on leaf springs? yay or nay.. trailer fully loaded would be about 900kg - 1.2 tonne.

Its that or 16" mags.. or 14" steelies (gay)

[BMWST?]

power source from trailer for tyre warmers?

[Fast Eddie]

A pop-top hard top roof would sort that issue out ... and sling a hammock, they are comfortable and don't take up much space when not in use. Only a few minutes to put up too.

yuss, hammocks - why didn't I think of that!!

legend, should save a few kgs and $$'s compared to my little rectangle box that houses a mattress and folds down.

you beaut, keep the ideas coming haha!

the only thing about the pop top i think is that it will reduce the amount of storeage on the move.. have to carry a spare fairing, at least 3 spare wheels with tyres plus spare tyres, plus gear, tools, spare parts..

Once deck is complete will put sidecar on it and see how much room we are working with around it and how much gear has to go on it/in it.

[Fast Eddie]

this was more what i was on about, but you seem to be on top of it, you are not ment to have petrol containers for ferry crossings but they are easy to hide, and we used to carry and empty one to show the ferry staff on the odd occasion you got searched

and it may be worth having a filter before or after the pump depending on if the tank will be inside the trailer or outside it, as things like condensation can get into the fuel,

ah good man, cheers. didnt know that about ferry crossing! good tips. cheers tank is probably going to be outside trailer on the drawbar/front of trailer..