Sure, It's off topic but which Jap car brand is the crappest?

[SVboy]

While I bow to OAB,s industry knowledge, I dispute the reliability of European cars generally speaking, especially in comparison with jappa cars . I am sure that a late model with FSH or brand nz new euro would be reliable as[and undoubtably safer than a jappa], but given a few years the problems can be bankrupting. I give you mercedies air suspension or even their air cond units. How about VW coil packs. The particulate filters on any euro diesel. The fuckers clog on high quality euro fuel let alone NZ sludge..... I notice no-one has been game to mention the reliability of ANY french car!![peugeot 404 504 excepted--once apon a time]

[SMOKEU]

I notice no-one has been game to mention the reliability of ANY french car!![peugeot 404 504 excepted--once apon a time]

Peugeot make pretty good cars. I'd buy a diesel one if I wanted a cage.

[unstuck]

Had a good run with mitzis myself. Mazda was my pick for the crappiest. Toyota would be my favorite pick from that list. Fords are the worst fucking cars, pieces of shit, only ever had one decent ford and that was a mazda(laser).

[SVboy]

Peugeot make pretty good cars. I'd buy a diesel one if I wanted a cage.

Had a friend who bought a new nz new 306 or 7-pretty much a base line no frills model. From new it had eletrical problems that the franchise dealer was unable to fix-ever. As for Nissan aligning itself with Renault....and arnt some of the diesels in suzuki 4wd and toyota RAV and corolla citroen in origin? What were they thinking?

[onearmedbandit]

While I bow to OAB,s industry knowledge, I dispute the reliability of European cars generally speaking, especially in comparison with jappa cars . I am sure that a late model with FSH or brand nz new euro would be reliable as[and undoubtably safer than a jappa], but given a few years the problems can be bankrupting. I give you mercedies air suspension or even their air cond units. How about VW coil packs. The particulate filters on any euro diesel. The fuckers clog on high quality euro fuel let alone NZ sludge..... I notice no-one has been game to mention the reliability of ANY french car!![peugeot 404 504 excepted--once apon a time]

The best euro will make the worst mitzi look like a reliable buy! Except for the DELICA 4WD 2.3 diesel turbo. OMG! How the garage owners must have laughed and rubbed their hands!

^^ This was your original statement, which as I said is totally inaccurate.

Yes some Euro's can be very expensive to repair, but bear in mind the original purchase price of some of these cars. For example the Mercedes cars equipped with air suspension would be models that sold originally for well over $100k. I can show you examples of Japanese cars that retail near that (we have a Honda Legend in stock that has electrical issues preventing us from selling it, the ABS computer alone makes it unworthy of fixing, let alone the air-bag computers). Certain Lexus models too are incredibly costly to replace electrical components on. My point is it's not just the Euro cars that are pricey to repair. We've sold plenty of French cars, both Citreon and Peugeot that we have had faultless runs with.

[ducatilover]

Had a friend who bought a new nz new 306 or 7-pretty much a base line no frills model. From new it had eletrical problems that the franchise dealer was unable to fix-ever. As for Nissan aligning itself with Renault....and arnt some of the diesels in suzuki 4wd and toyota RAV and corolla citroen in origin? What were they thinking?

They're Pug/Nissan/Citroen efforts, same as the V6 in the 350z, all developed by the same bunch, so you can't blame the froggies as the Nips were involved.
The late 90's Pug diesels were excellent cars, I'd happily own one

[ducatilover]

^^ This was your original statement, which as I said is totally inaccurate.

Yes some Euro's can be very expensive to repair, but bear in mind the original purchase price of some of these cars. For example the Mercedes cars equipped with air suspension would be models that sold originally for well over $100k. I can show you examples of Japanese cars that retail near that (we have a Honda Legend in stock that has electrical issues preventing us from selling it, the ABS computer alone makes it unworthy of fixing, let alone the air-bag computers). Certain Lexus models too are incredibly costly to replace electrical components on. My point is it's not just the Euro cars that are pricey to repair. We've sold plenty of French cars, both Citreon and Peugeot that we have had faultless runs with.

People seem to be comparing a 4AFE Corolla esque car to a well specced, safe and actually nice European cars

[gsxr]

The best euro will make the worst mitzi look like a reliable buy! Except for the DELICA 4WD 2.3 diesel turbo. OMG! How the garage owners must have laughed and rubbed their hands!

Umm I hate to admit but I owned one of them.It had a recon motor so thought it would be all good.
Cracked a head .2nd hand bare head was $1000.00. Gearbox shit itself majorly $1800.00 2nd hand.
Parts only. I do my own repairs.
Evidently they used the same gearbox as a Galant.It didnt like towing 2 tonne up its arse everyday.
Bad batch of oil terminated the motor so i gave the bloody thing away.

Nissan Terrano TD 27 turbo now has 232,000 km on it.In 10 years apart from regular oil chages at 7500km the total cost of repairs has been 1 set of tyres 1 battery 1 tail light bulb and a rear vision mirror that was knocked off by a bus whilst it was parked.
It isnt fast (in fact it is slow as fuck but it does everything I want it to do. Stick the 20 ft caravan up its arse and it hardly knows its there. Same as the 10 x 5 high sided trailer fully loaded. It pulls like a school boy.
I should actually replace it but it is just so handy.

Someone mentioned Euro . Volvo S40 2.0l import. Currently 92000 km 2 cv joints (wierd 3 claw thingys) at $380.00 each. 2 coils at something like $210.00 each . If you want to change the plugs dont plan anything else for your day. Rides like an old dray especially on shingle.
Its spends it life in the garage and I use my trusty ole truck if i need 4 wheels

[onearmedbandit]

People seem to be comparing a 4AFE Corolla esque car to a well specced, safe and actually nice European cars

Exactly. Just because a car that was once $200,000 is now affordable at $20,000 doesn't mean you should buy it, especially without an extended warranty. To be perfectly honest, if you don't get an extended warranty and don't look after your car, you shouldn't even buy an E46 3 series BMW. These too were $80-$120k vehicles that you can now pick up for $10,000. If you service your car etc and buy an extended warranty on a good example, you will be fine.

We all drive Euro's at work, mostly BMW's (although I'm more of a Merc fan) and despite being in the industry we all have MBI's on them.

[onearmedbandit]

Someone mentioned Euro . Volvo S40 2.0l import. Currently 92000 km 2 cv joints (wierd 3 claw thingys) at $380.00 each. 2 coils at something like $210.00 each . If you want to change the plugs dont plan anything else for your day. Rides like an old dray especially on shingle.
Its spends it life in the garage and I use my trusty ole truck if i need 4 wheels

Volvo's are not a good example. If we are forced to trade one we'll $1 reserve it.

[ducatilover]

Exactly. Just because a car that was once $200,000 is now affordable at $20,000 doesn't mean you should buy it, especially without an extended warranty. To be perfectly honest, if you don't get an extended warranty and don't look after your car, you shouldn't even buy an E46 3 series BMW. These too were $80-$120k vehicles that you can now pick up for $10,000. If you service your car etc and buy an extended warranty on a good example, you will be fine.

We all drive Euro's at work, mostly BMW's (although I'm more of a Merc fan) and despite being in the industry we all have MBI's on them.

I think it's really a matter of choosing wisely, easy tip to rule out most BMWs that you should buy: Does it have less than 6 cylinders? Yes? Move along. No? Manual or auto? Manual? Excellent, check the rest of the car! Auto, is it ZF, Jatco or GM? etc etc
It's a matter of being BMW mad, that's why I've never had any issues that have been expensive.
But for anyone whom doesn't have a clue, they should buy a Corolla. Leave the decent cars for me.

[SVboy]

Exactly. Just because a car that was once $200,000 is now affordable at $20,000 doesn't mean you should buy it, especially without an extended warranty. To be perfectly honest, if you don't get an extended warranty and don't look after your car, you shouldn't even buy an E46 3 series BMW. These too were $80-$120k vehicles that you can now pick up for $10,000. If you service your car etc and buy an extended warranty on a good example, you will be fine.

We all drive Euro's at work, mostly BMW's (although I'm more of a Merc fan) and despite being in the industry we all have MBI's on them.

You are probably right.I have no hesitation in lavishing $$$ in maintainance on all my bikes [and cars]. If I made the lifestyle choise to run an expensive euro,it would be niave not to bring the same attitude towards looking after it. In saying that, I drive an Altezza, which I gather is based on a late 90s 320i-except with all the BMW issues removed! I get the handling and quality of a nice rwd euro and reliability of a toyota! Pefect!

[ducatilover]

Someone mentioned Euro . Volvo S40 2.0l import. Currently 92000 km 2 cv joints (wierd 3 claw thingys) at $380.00 each. 2 coils at something like $210.00 each . If you want to change the plugs dont plan anything else for your day. Rides like an old dray especially on shingle.
Its spends it life in the garage and I use my trusty ole truck if i need 4 wheels

Shop around for parts mate
I can do both coils for under $150NZD, new.
I can do manual driveshafts, (inner and outer CVs included) for 280-300 each.
Individual CVs are much cheaper.

But I have to admit, the 40 series Volvos are shite, the b4204 2.0 and that heinous 1.8 GDi borrowed from mitsi are a huge let down

[onearmedbandit]

I think it's really a matter of choosing wisely, easy tip to rule out most BMWs that you should buy: Does it have less than 6 cylinders? Yes? Move along. No? Manual or auto? Manual? Excellent, check the rest of the car! Auto, is it ZF, Jatco or GM? etc etc
It's a matter of being BMW mad, that's why I've never had any issues that have been expensive.
But for anyone whom doesn't have a clue, they should buy a Corolla. Leave the decent cars for me.

BMW autos (5 stage and above) we've had very few, if any issues with. VW and Audi on the other hand, not so much. Honda auto's, eeek run away.

[ducatilover]

You are probably right.I have no hesitation in lavishing $$$ in maintainance on all my bikes [and cars]. If I made the lifestyle choise to run an expensive euro,it would be niave not to bring the same attitude towards looking after it. In saying that, I drive an Altezza, which I gather is based on a late 90s 320i-except with all the BMW issues removed! I get the handling and quality of a nice rwd euro and reliability of a toyota! Pefect!

Great cars them, only common issue I'm aware of is eating lower ball joints. Do handle a treat and those 6 speed ones hum along okay