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Thread: Which chain to buy?

  1. #1
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    29th March 2010 - 19:13
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    Which chain to buy?

    Just came back from the WOF shop, they said I need to change the chain. I'd like to change it myself, instead take to the workshop. But I'm not sure which chain will fit my bike.
    Did a quick google search, seems like so many types out there. Can somebody give me some help on this? My bike is a Gsx 400F, 1994.
    Thanks for reading guys.

    ----------------------------------------------------------------------------

    There is a mark shows: 525 XSO. Is this the chain type?

  2. #2
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    6th May 2012 - 10:41
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    do the sprockets need doing aswel? could be a good chance to play with your top end/ 'round town gearing.

    chains are listed by their pitch and width in /8th of an inch. you can measure the chain you have now and fit an identical one easy enough. if you don't already have riveting/ breaker tools, go for clippy chain. (i would anyway, just for ease of everything)

    the next question becomes, normal simplex roller, x ring, o ring, riveted or clipped etc personally i roll on an x ring DID, lube it with 10/30 every few hundy kms, goes good.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by auvicua View Post
    Just came back from the WOF shop, they said I need to change the chain.....
    If your chain needs replacing then so do your sprockets. Your rear sprocket my look OK, but how about the front one?
    It is false economy to replace the chain and ignore the sprockets.
    Yes you can change them all yourself and it isn't difficult. Just make sure you use a chain break tool to cut off the correct amount of chain and a chain rivet tool to reconnect it.
    Time to ride

  4. #4
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    29th March 2010 - 19:13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Akzle View Post
    do the sprockets need doing aswel? could be a good chance to play with your top end/ 'round town gearing.

    chains are listed by their pitch and width in /8th of an inch. you can measure the chain you have now and fit an identical one easy enough. if you don't already have riveting/ breaker tools, go for clippy chain. (i would anyway, just for ease of everything)

    the next question becomes, normal simplex roller, x ring, o ring, riveted or clipped etc personally i roll on an x ring DID, lube it with 10/30 every few hundy kms, goes good.
    Thanks for the reply man!
    The guy at the WOF shop didn't say anything about the sprockets, I think I will leave them for now.
    I will need to count and measure the chain in the morning and post it here. Cheers

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jantar View Post
    If your chain needs replacing then so do your sprockets. Your rear sprocket my look OK, but how about the front one?
    It is false economy to replace the chain and ignore the sprockets.
    Yes you can change them all yourself and it isn't difficult. Just make sure you use a chain break tool to cut off the correct amount of chain and a chain rivet tool to reconnect it.
    I think i should be Ok to change the chain, but not very confident about the sprockets.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by auvicua View Post
    Thanks for the reply man!
    The guy at the WOF shop didn't say anything about the sprockets, I think I will leave them for now.
    I will need to count and measure the chain in the morning and post it here. Cheers

    o. you had one of THOSE wof guys. (wait 28 days and take it to someone else =P )

    you can (post up here). i don't know that it will serve you any better. just google that shit. the ring chains have better protection against shit-ingress, and require lighter lubing. basically, you can never have too much lube on your chain. old type roller chains are better taken off bike and soaked in hot oil (while the wife is not at the stove >< )

    Quote Originally Posted by Jantar View Post
    If your chain needs replacing then so do your sprockets. Your rear sprocket my look OK, but how about the front one?
    It is false economy to replace the chain and ignore the sprockets.
    Yes you can change them all yourself and it isn't difficult. Just make sure you use a chain break tool to cut off the correct amount of chain and a chain rivet tool to reconnect it.
    + set the right sag
    sprockets= not always. i would say that sprockets CAN be done every second chain. depends how you thrash it. sprocket wear will be obvious. replace both sprockets at once.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Akzle View Post
    ....sprockets= not always. i would say that sprockets CAN be done every second chain. depends how you thrash it. sprocket wear will NOT ALWAYS be obvious. replace both sprockets at once.
    That is false economy. A worn countershaft sprocket will cause the chain to wear at double its normal rate. So if you get 30,000 km from the first chain and don't change the sprockets you will only get around 15,000 from the next one (learned this the hard way). Sprockets are much cheaper than chain, so best to do them at the same time.
    Time to ride

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jantar View Post
    That is false economy. A worn countershaft sprocket will cause the chain to wear at double its normal rate. So if you get 30,000 km from the first chain and don't change the sprockets you will only get around 15,000 from the next one (learned this the hard way). Sprockets are much cheaper than chain, so best to do them at the same time.
    The easy way to put it is that green doesn't always mean go...

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by auvicua View Post
    Thanks for the reply man!
    The guy at the WOF shop didn't say anything about the sprockets, I think I will leave them for now.
    I will need to count and measure the chain in the morning and post it here. Cheers
    The sprockets wont 'snap' and either destroy the engine cases, jam the rear wheel, or at worst wrap itself around your ankle so they wont be so critical on a sprocket but if severely worn I would imagine it being a 'FAIL'....
    The most obvious sign of imminent replacement required is a 'tight spot'..if you adust the chain and ride the bike the tight spot will make an obvious 'thump/feel as it goes round the front sprocket (binding).. the longer you leave this the more severe the sprocket wear will be.... HOWEVER .... IF you leave it, often the chain appears to 'magically' untighten... SUCKER you are now on the road to extreme chain/sprocket wear, when the binding returns it will feel like you have someone 'thumping' your engine ... the chain is in DIRE condition and is going to break very soon.
    Well lubed chains will give over 30k of life.. 25k is 'usual' if the chain is not well lubed. Most underlube as it will leave spatter marks all over thier 'showroom' rear wheel and swing arm. On an FJ1200 I got over 60k on an OEM chain before it was a 'fail' on the WOF.. and was told by Paul at TSS "the saving grace is its so well oiled/greased, replace it NOW" So in about 5-6k it went from OK to knackered.

    Chain life 101.....
    correct tension is important, your bikes handbook will tell you how much slack is correct for your bike. Overtightening will stretch the chain but more importantly, will sooner than later wear out the sprocket shaft seal/bearing and it will start to leak oil. a good sign of a well lubed chain is (if new it will stretch for a few hundy K's) it will require little adjustment ( I would just about go the life of a rear tyre (6-7k) on the FJ between adjustments) with a 400cc you should get 1,000's of k's between adjustments.
    Clean the chain with paraffin/kerosene every so often (when it has obvious gravel/dust 'paste' on the link sides)...
    Sprockets are 'cut' so the teeth match the 'pich' of the chain (gap between the rollers) so the more lube on the rollers,links, the less wear on the sprocket. I'd agree with an above poster.. do chain and sprockets together (buy a replacement kit). It is false economy to not do so.
    MOST IMPORTANTLY.. dont buy a CHEAP chain/sprocket kit... again its false economy. Buy a 'reputable' brand or of you are a high milage rider buy the best for your machine, and KEEP IT WELL LUBED.
    If the road to hell is paved with good intentions; and a man is judged by his deeds and his actions, why say it's the thought that counts? -GrayWolf

  10. #10
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    The chain on my GSXR was completely fucked (had major tight spots) but the sprockets were still in a very good condition. I took it to a reputable motorbike mechanic who said I might as well keep the sprockets and just put a new chain on, so you can safely put a new chain on old sprockets assuming the sprockets are both in a good condition. If the sprockets have much wear on them then you should replace them at the same time as the chain.

  11. #11
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    11th June 2011 - 16:30
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    Cool

    Quote Originally Posted by SMOKEU View Post
    The chain on my GSXR was completely fucked (had major tight spots) but the sprockets were still in a very good condition. I took it to a reputable motorbike mechanic who said I might as well keep the sprockets and just put a new chain on, so you can safely put a new chain on old sprockets assuming the sprockets are both in a good condition. If the sprockets have much wear on them then you should replace them at the same time as the chain.
    Well am going order new chain tonight dam bike costing me small fortune yeah am not going to chance sprockets either

    Look okay think shape the teeth and how thick they are spending nz 400.00 tonight on the old vfr 750

    Dam spent of 2, 500 since got this bike damm so much for cheap bike

    But chain making noises and feel rough so hopefull bike go alot better with new chain, whats good product

    To use of the chain to keep it lasting , been over 15 years since had to buy anything

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