GN250 Cafe Racer

[JMSR]

Lol touche. I'll video for sure, just for the tiniest teeniest chance I need some parts.

It's a long shot, but the GN is an easy fixer upper so why not have some fun.

[ducatilover]

That's the way bro!

I was going to pull the DR6 motor and finish it today, but I got some metal and rust in my eye and the doctor fella had to put me out and get some sharp tools in there

[Erelyes]

To get the most out of your square cams tho you need to upgrade to square wheels.

[highace10]

Standard clipons were used, front shocks lowered through the clamps by about 2 inches.

A mate of mine has just fitted the 300 kit and so far is enjoying it. Still needs some run in time but so far he has noticed a healthy dose of torque down low.

$200 for the kit... Can't complain.

[ducatilover]

Standard clipons were used, front shocks lowered through the clamps by about 2 inches.

A mate of mine has just fitted the 300 kit and so far is enjoying it. Still needs some run in time but so far he has noticed a healthy dose of torque down low.

$200 for the kit... Can't complain.

Buying direct from China mine was around $80 US + shipping.

I reckon, get a cheap piston that's around 10mm O/S of standard, have a machinist take out your original barrel and then run teflon dowlels in place of gudgeon clips and you're away.

Might do it to another GN one day, just for shits and giggles

[highace10]

Buying direct from China mine was around $80 US + shipping

Do you still have the details of where you bought it from?

Cheers

[ducatilover]

www.c2345.com and it took a bit of navigating, I'm not sure if they still stock them
Aliexpress do the 78mm piston and rings for $40USD or so
You can also go with a few other pistons, like an O/S GSX-R1100, Bandit 12 etc, the Busa piston would need machining on top, so not much point going there

[ducatilover]

http://www.c2345.com/product/7017406...e%20for%20sale here you go mate

When I got mine it was $83 USD

[JMSR]

My bits arrived this week. OoooooooooYeaaaaaaaaaah!

[ducatilover]

Pics

[highace10]

Pics for sure!

That 300 kit, would it be the same one that is available on Ebay? I cant imagine there being too many places that manufacture that gear.

[ducatilover]

I would expect it to be the same one.
Just measure the dowels for the barrel to engine cases, no less than 12.95mm, otherwise your block may twist off a little, and make sure you set the barrel nuts (2 m6 on the RHS) to the correct torque when the manual tells you to.
A few people get base gasket leaks, then crank the M6 nuts down and it pulls the block over and eats the piston lol

[highace10]

Great info, that's the sort of stuff I'm after. Having never taken an engine apart those details will help.

Thanks

Any more tips?

[ducatilover]

Millions of tips! Best of all, follow the owner's manual to the very last word.

[bosslady]

Highace that looks preeeeeeeeemo!!

Matt, Pulled the staples on the cover then used a wide flat handsaw for cutting the plastic and the foam. The plastic cuts easily with a sharp saw. I cut the back off to the molding for the rear mount, and drew a horizontal line from the bottom front corner along the side then cut it with the saw teeth flat along the line for a good straight cut. You'll be cutting through the foam at the same time so it'll act as a guide for the saw. I should also mention I have a 50mm ply spacer between the plastic and front mount hook which changes the profile a little and and matches the spacer under the back of the tank. Smooth of the edges with a sanding disc or block. Lay the saw flat on the lower part of the seat and slowly cut with broad strokes the top off the pillion section. Round off the corners of the foam. When putting the cover back on use the pattern as a guide. Instead of stapling I used M3x6 long self tappers with wide washers and pre-drilled a pattern of about 60 around the underside. This would allow for adjustments and future covers not to mention it's near impossible to staple that plastic! Good luck.

that's a sweet looking exhaust you've got there!