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Thread: Paint pros, Harley fags, kids bike

  1. #1
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    Paint pros, Harley fags, kids bike

    so i pulled a bike out the shed for the kids, doing it up as a holiday project. at this stage taking to it with 100grit to get the rust off.

    paint pros: 1- how bare does bare metal need to be to not bubble up again? i'm going to throw galmet or something at it, then topcoat, we've got all the orange off but there's still dark pitting and patches, mainly near the feather edge of the existing paint. but also the bottom of some dings... do i need to acid it?
    2- best way to get rust out of the corners? anything better than wire brush in die grinder?
    3- how much prep should i be doing for an acceptable rattle can finish? my inclination is to buff it to 4000 grit then rub it with steel wool, but that's more than this bike needs... where is the line for rattle can paint? 400? 800?
    4- should i give a shit about the inside of the pipework?

    neauh, harley fags: there's crome type shit that's rusted and pitted, also some stainless type stuff. what's the best way to restore this on the cheap? is there chrome-in-a-can? or is it a matter of prep and paint as with everything else....

  2. #2
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    Re-chroming is harder than chroming from scratch. Just paint that shit.

    Rattle can painting, I've never gone past 400 grit paper other than once. The one time though, others will attest, looked like a bake oven job!

    Pitting, will very quickly turn to bubbles in the paint if you don't treat it.

    Bare metal painting is very tricky I was told. Never tried it myself so I dunno what to do.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drew View Post
    Re-chroming is harder than chroming from scratch.
    Still spouting more bullshit eh Drew! How much Chroming you had done? was it using 4.1 or is that only a brake fluid?

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    Quote Originally Posted by jellywrestler View Post
    Still spouting more bullshit eh Drew! How much Chroming you had done? was it using 4.1 or is that only a brake fluid?
    Was you that told me it was harder to prep for re-chroming ya fuckin cock gobbler. Figured it was safe to assume you weren't talking shit, since you have heaps of that shit done.

    Guess I shouldn't make that mistake again.

    As you were.

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    If it is just a crash and burn runabout rub back with not finer than 400 - 320 will be OK if you use a good etching primer. You can buy rattle cans designed to paint over previously rusted surfaces to arrest further rust.

    A good etching primer will be the key to adhesion. A number of fine coats is better than one heavy one.

    Also a good tip with rattle cans if it is a bit cool is to sit them in a bucket of warm water for 10 mins or so to warm up the paint.

    Have fun. Post pictures.

  6. #6
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    Sandblast the sucker, get rid of all that pit shadowing, etch primer if bare steel. Keep your fingertip away from the spray pattern when using a spraycan, otherwise you are going to get blobs thrown at it.
    For a man is a slave to whatever has mastered him. Keep an open mind, just dont let your brains fall out.

  7. #7
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    Chrome type shit will always be pitted if that's what it's like right now.

    Sure, rubbing it down with real fine steel wool and rust-kill will help - but only for so long.

    Maybe of painted with Wattyl kill-rust rust eater it will last but remember if that Wattyl wears/scrapes off you'll be back to square-one.

    And the chrome will be a different colour as the above is not 100% clear, it's slightly opaque.
    Winding up drongos, foil hat wearers and over sensitive KBers for over 14,000 posts...........
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    There are a few rust killers/sealers that require little or no prep. Paint the stuff on and let it dry. Then paint over.
    When life throws you a curve ... Lean into it ...

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    Wot allan said

    BUT

    for the bits that show , I go 300 , 600, Paint , 800 paint ( in a different color IF you want a reasonable finish ) , then top coat 1000 # never bothered with a laquer

    the other bits 300 , maybe 600 depends if can be seen

    sorry but those edges will show up until they are filled , either sand it down and then fill using spray putty or bog and only the holes !!! then paint in a color ( read cheap ) then put a base coat down

    sand back using 300 , warm water with detergent in it , wet and dry

    the different color paint underneath will show up the high spots and low spot , your call on how good u want it to look

    see the above to finish

    Silicon ,,,IF the frame has oil or silicon on it , it will take u on big style and mess with ur head , paint wont stick to either and u think its clean , but as soon as u spray ,,,fk .....wait to it dries and sand it off ......

    As allan said , warm the paint and the surface , clean and dry , then the finish can be quite good depends on the prep


    Stephen
    need more wine so must get of couch , so a hurried reply
    "Look, Madame, where we live, look how we live ... look at the life we have...The Republic has forgotten us."

  10. #10
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    This shit here is really good, at least I have had some good results with it. http://www.tergo.co.nz/Tech%20Data/HTML/blackguard.htm
    For a man is a slave to whatever has mastered him. Keep an open mind, just dont let your brains fall out.

  11. #11
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    eek


    i dont get it.

    I post a thread. and get serious answers. y'all still in holiday mode eh...

    anyhow. thanks all.
    i was thinking whatever galv spray they sell now (i know it as galmet) - will look for etch primer but last time i looked at PA10 in a can it was about 60$ which is about 40$ more than i expect to pay for paint for this. which makes me think.. i probably have a 4lt can i can run through the compressor... hum)
    , i know how to paint (thin coats) it was more the metal prep i was curious about.

    frame is steel, various fittings are this high-chromium/stainless (chinese probably) shit metal.

    i'm not going to be filling shit, so i think the etch primer /killrust is the way to go. it doesn't need to be a real purty finish. it's a kids thrash bike.

    so far prep has been 150 grit (regular sandpaper) with water and it's got rid of the worst of the rust, bits that are clean get CRC66'd awaiting the heat gun before painting. (although with the fucking temperatures we've been having i could just leave it outside for two minutes)

  12. #12
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    Textured powdercoat


    It will look cool, and you will have no prep to do.

    And depending on the texture you pick, scratches and nicks will be filled in and wont show.
    Find out more at www.unluckyones.co.nz

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Akzle View Post

    i dont get it.

    I post a thread. and get serious answers. y'all still in holiday mode eh...

    I was thinking the exact same thing.

  14. #14
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    nothing wrong with brush painting and a tin of paint , a good brush ...away u go ,

    have done a few tanks this way , no not t34 ,

    Stephen
    "Look, Madame, where we live, look how we live ... look at the life we have...The Republic has forgotten us."

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Lone Rider View Post
    Textured powdercoat


    It will look cool, and you will have no prep to do.

    And depending on the texture you pick, scratches and nicks will be filled in and wont show.
    okay. who does tex powder coat for 20$?

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