Priming is easy,
but oil it after painting it?
Priming is easy,
but oil it after painting it?
Find out more at www.unluckyones.co.nz
I was advised by the two salesmen at Mitre 10 Mega, they said its good for plastics (and chrome if I heard them right). If its no good I can always get a refund (or give it to my dad as an early fathers day present). If anything goes wrong then I'll let the panel beaters look at it, but in saying that, I can't learn if I don't give it a go. I'm prepared to purchase equipment as I go along, I enjoy motorcycles and chances are (and I sincerely hope so) that I'll be riding for many years to come. So I might as well learn the A,B,C's of motorcycle maintenance now. In my last thread I managed to get my motorcycle going (which was the last problem) after tinkering around with it (with the help of forum advice). I considered that to be beyond my expertise (and so did the onlookers), so I asked what I should do and the kind people here gave me suggestions.
I must of misheard them, by they said that 'oil' is good for preventing rust. They showed me a spray can of something (I can't remember, my short term memory is shockingly bad ) and they referred to it as the 'oil' that I should put on the newly painted areas. Would you have any ideas what they might of been referring to?
What would you recommend for rust prevention?
do you think they said "fish oil"? It comes in a can now..just spray and it prevents rust!
Might be fish oil
But I don't believe it is necessary to be putting fish oil on things once primed and painted.
But to do a good job, you're really gonna need it to go to a professional to have the paint matched and touched up, or have the entire bike painted. Or you can home job it, and paint it yourself if you're game. Or you can simply prime it and leave it - but it will be noticeable.
I have a dent on my car at the moment, so I've just sanded it and primed it. It will no longer rust, and should I choose to I can panel beat it, bog it, and/or paint it. Until then, it's very obvious.
Usually, fish oil is for places that you can't paint or make no sense to paint. Like the connections on mirror stems.
Find out more at www.unluckyones.co.nz
CRC silicone is good for protecting plastics and paint. Unless you ever want to re-paint it. The Mitre10 dudes possibly didn't realise it but even trace particles of silicone anywhere near a surface to be painted causes serious problems, the paint runs away from it.
The joys of DIY maintenance eh?
Most oils are good at preventing moisture and air getting into corners and mating surfaces. The trick is to get everything in reasonable nick first, then use something like pro-lan (basically just lanolin) to keep it that way.
Go soothingly on the grease mud, as there lurks the skid demon
Alright guys, here are the photos (I haven't washed and waxed the bike yet, so there's a bit of dust and mud on it from when I took around the yard):
Photos of the foot peg that fell off.
The side that the foot peg fell off.
Here is what I can see on the bike so far, it doesn't look too bad, but I think it could do with a bit of tidying up.
There's a little bit on the tank as well (I'm not sure about inside the tank)
Could do with a bit of polishing up.
Things like the footrest - wirebrush the surface rust off and shoot it with flat back aerosol spray paint - several light coats rather than one heavy coat. Thats about all the factory ever did.
it's not a bad thing till you throw a KLR into the mix.
those cheap ass bitches can do anything with ductape.
(PostalDave on ADVrider)
Funny thing about primer.
It is porous, designed so to absorb the paint you put on it . But it also absorbs water.
Left uncovered in the air, it absorbs moisture. Funny that eh.
Under it, the metal you removed the paint from, will become rusty .
Have you not noticed that primer painted cars develop surface rust really really fast if used before painting?
I think you should rethink your idea Tony.
As for surface priming ? a good etch primer is really good to use eh. make the top coat stick well.
But as for small touch up Bike frame cleanups with a hand brush.
I would recommend the product called Hammerite, comes in matt , gloss, semi gloss and hammer finish.
A very hard durable paint that seals over metal quite well. And is very resistant to chipping from trail riding etc.
To be old and wise, first you must be young and stupid.
That'll be a first.
I've had bikes painted in just primer, and another car.
Never rusted further.
Find out more at www.unluckyones.co.nz
I would just spray the rusty bits with CRC or similar and ride it. There is no point stripping back and repainting unless you are doing the whole lot. This bike is in good nick overall and if you are riding it daily, just when you wash it go around with the spray.
And if you do paint stuff, don't leave it primed as it will rust thru quickly. Primer is very porous and by the time you see the rust showing thru, it is strip back time!
Get out there and enjoy it!
Only a Rat can win a Rat Race!
Yup, take the pin with the wee hole in to a garage, or Repco or Supercheap and ask 'em for a new one and a couple of spares.
I'd clean and paint both pegs, they're easy enough to get off. Little trickier to get on but you'll work it out.
Is good stuff, eh? I use it over PA10 undercoat. Not sure if it's worth Hk buying a can, though, I could only get it in 1L and it wern't cheap.
As for the rest, I'd clean the underside of the trippleclamp as much as you can and then rub some prolan or even car wax into it. Mr Suzuki makes some nice motorbikes but even his most ardent supporters would admit some of his finishing is less than perfect. See if you can find some nail polish about the same colour as the tank.
Nice wee bike, get out and ride it.
Edit: those rusty bolts can be replaced with stainless steel ones, just undo them and take them in to someone like Anzor, they should have stainless stock to match. The mirror unscrews, undo the hex nut at the base, sand the mirror stem and paint it with a gloss black enamel from a rattlecan. That gear shifter is way too low, it should be maybe 10mm above your toe when you're sitting naturally on the bike. Undo the pinch bolt and remove it, pull the lever off the shaft and reposition it, put the bolt back in and check the position, repeat until it's right and then tighten the pinch bolt to about 10Nm.
Go soothingly on the grease mud, as there lurks the skid demon
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