Cleaning & removing rust off a motorcycle?

[Akzle]

CRC silicone is good for protecting plastics and paint. Unless you ever want to re-paint it. The Mitre10 dudes possibly didn't realise it but even trace particles of silicone anywhere near a surface to be painted causes serious problems, the paint runs away from it.

The joys of DIY maintenance eh?



Most oils are good at preventing moisture and air getting into corners and mating surfaces. The trick is to get everything in reasonable nick first, then use something like pro-lan (basically just lanolin) to keep it that way.

+1
don't listen to "mitre 10 dudes" they're few and far between a good 'un.

OP
well, if you're game to buy new stuff then buy away!
although a footpeg snapping off is not "surface rust" nor something you'll fix. (without a welder. (buy one! - a TIG))

...Today I went to Mitre 10 Mega to pick up some steel wool, a wire brush and CRC silicone spray...

wire brush -check. (one that goes in a drill is a helluva lot faster) if you got one of the orange plastic ones, get hubby to hacksaw the end off so as you can get into corners.
steel wool - should be #0000 grade and probably not worth the use on the frame. only good for very, very fine filling/paint finishing.
CRC silicone - put it in the cupboard. it's not for this job.

...Is this procedure necessary? If so, why?...

procedure? if you want to do a good job at it, you need to strip it back to bare metal and start from dot. if you're rough n ready, you can just ratte-can over it.
[quote]...What sort of basic tools am I looking at that are necessary for this job?...
sandpaper in grades from 200 to 4000 and a big tin of elbow grease.
[quote]...Do I need to strip down the whole bike or just the rusted areas?...
color matching i PITA. buy "magic" matching paint and feather the edges.

...If I need to strip down the whole bike, does that mean I have to remove the eletrics, tank, engine etc.?...

this is entirely possible.

...Do I need to wash and dry the bike down between steps (before removing rust, after removing rust, after applying primer, after applying paint etc.)?...

bike needs to be clean (ish), stripping rut will make either an acid-ey mess or a dusty one. either way you want the bike clean and free of dust prior to priming/painting. if you can put a gas torch on it, or put the pice in the oven, do so, as that will get the moisture out of the metal and make the paint stick to it like shit to blankets. generally sand between coats. (with 4000 grit) then wipe over with your hand to pick up the dust. getting it wet at this point just means you need to get it dry again.

...Are there any products (sprays etc.) that I should use to help remove the rust before going over with the steel wool?...

as above. steel wool is the devil's work. only for very, very, very fine (finer than 4000 grit sandpaper) type work.
you can buy "rust converter" or "rust eater" type products. - basically a mild acid that eats rust but isn't strong enough to eat good metal. thee need to be washed off thrououghly and the urface re-prepped after (4000 grit) as they tend to pickle the metal.

...What sort of primer do I need? Where can I get it from and what brand should I use?...

someone else will know better. i use PA10 or "navy" grey, but i never want a finish that's real purty.
anything in a rattle can, "zinc-it" type should work for your purposes.

...Do I need a spray gun for applying paint?...

ideally - yes. if you already have a compressor go and buy yourself a small "touch up" gun or even a normal gravity-feed gun. tip size should be <1mm. if you have a really good compressor, feel free to get a siphon feed gun, else tick to the gravity feed ones.
if you do not have a compressor - this will be a rattle-can job for you.

...What sort of paint should I use? Where can I get it from and what brand should I use?...

auto paint. someone else will have more advice than me.

[Matariki]

So from reading everyone's posts, this is what I understand so far:

1. Clean the bike down first with water, car wash, and a suitable brush or sponge (I have a microfiber sponge)
2. Wipe down with a chamois and leave to dry
3. Inspect the bike, find areas with rust (remove rusted bolts and replace)
4. Spray CRC on the affected areas and begin to remove rust with fine steel wool or sandpaper (I have steel wool), use brush on hard to reach places (or areas with a substantial amount of rust)
5. Rinse down bike again to remove any rust residues, wipe down bike again with a chamois, leave to dry
7. Apply Porlan to the trippleclamp
8. Cover the areas on the bike that is not being painted with newspaper
9. Apply primer (unless using Hammerite)
10. Apply paint in a series of light coats for even finish, leave to dry

Does this sound right?

[Paul in NZ]

post up some pics of the dodgy bits. it ill be easier to offer an educatd opinion then

[Laava]

TBH you now have ahuge amount of conflicting information and going from the photos you have posted, fix the footpeg, spray the rust with some type of oil, CRC or WD40 etc to keep a film of some sort on it and RIDE it! It is pointless stripping things back and making a top notch factory finish on one part or part of the frame etc. Spend your money on fuel and tires and have fun!

[Ocean1]

TBH you now have ahuge amount of conflicting information and going from the photos you have posted, fix the footpeg, spray the rust with some type of oil, CRC or WD40 etc to keep a film of some sort on it and RIDE it! It is pointless stripping things back and making a top notch factory finish on one part or part of the frame etc. Spend your money on fuel and tires and have fun!

Yus. To be fair though, (just for the sake of the excercise, y'understand) not much of it is plain wrong, it's just a matter of personal preference, and it's a larger issue than might appear to a beginer. Pity there seems to be no local mentor wrt motorcycle maintenance up there, a few basic hands-on pointers would go a long way.

I agree, though, Hk, just fix the footpeg, keep it clean and ride it.

[Akzle]

So from reading everyone's posts, this is what I understand so far:

1. Clean the bike down first with water, car wash, and a suitable brush or sponge (I have a microfiber sponge)
2. Wipe down with a chamois and leave to dry put the hair dryer on it.
3. Inspect the bike, find areas with rust (remove rusted bolts and replace)
4. Spray CRC ??? on the affected areas and begin to remove rust with fine steel wool or sandpaper (I have steel wool), use brush on hard to reach places (or areas with a substantial amount of rust)
5. Rinse down bike again to remove any rust residues, wipe down bike again with a chamois clean dry hand., leave to dry
7. Apply Porlan to the trippleclamp ??
8. Cover the areas on the bike that is not being painted with newspaper + masking tape, if going that route. else just be careful when spraying and keep a wet rag at hand to wipe off overspray.
9. Apply primer (unless using Hammerite)
10. Apply paint in a series of light coats + 4000 grit sand between coats for even finish, leave to dry

Does this sound right? now it does...

(if using car wash make sure it's de-greaser only. any that leaves wax or coating will not be paint-over-able.)

. .

[Ocean1]

post up some pics of the dodgy bits. it ill be easier to offer an educatd opinion then

Back up a page mate.

[Matariki]

Akzle, why do I need hair dyer? Can't I leave the bike to dry on its own?
Is there anything wrong with using a Chamois?

[Warr]

I have looked at your pics and my advice is the same as post #4.
Dont go scraping, polishing, priming, painting.

WAY WAY easier to buy a can of CRC 66. Its all you need !!

If the rust is dusty and flaky wire brush it off and spray on the CRC 66. It will stop further rust developing.

[Matariki]

Pity there seems to be no local mentor wrt motorcycle maintenance up there, a few basic hands-on pointers would go a long way.

Yes, eventually once I move wellington (later this year), I do intend to do a mechanics course (level 2, probably at Weltec) so I can get familiar with the basics and get some hands on experience. For now, I'll have to watch youtube videos and sift through threads until I can find something that's consistent with what I'm looking to achieve.

[Matariki]

I have looked at your pics and my advice is the same as post #4.
Dont go scraping, polishing, priming, painting.

WAY WAY easier to buy a can of CRC 66. Its all you need !!

If the rust is dusty and flaky wire brush it off and spray on the CRC 66. It will stop further rust developing.

I would do that. But... I don't really like the idea of having odd patches of exposed metal on my bike from where the rust was. I would prefer to keep it visually consistent. Unless you're saying that the CRC 66 will remove the rust and preserve the paint underneath without the need of having to steel wool or sand paper over it.

[Akzle]

o. go on then.

you're just up the road from blackdog....

[FJRider]

I would do that. But... I don't really like the idea of having odd patches of exposed metal on my bike from where the rust was. I would prefer to keep it visually consistent. Unless you're saying that the CRC 66 will remove the rust and preserve the paint underneath without the need of having to steel wool or sand paper over it.

Do what needs to be done. You know what that is now. Do it once and do it properly. CRC is not "doing it properly" (NOT a temporary fix at best)... You take pride in your bike. Look after it. Take the lazy track now ... and you will regret it later .... as you do it again and again and again ....
One spot at a time .... little by little, you'll get there.

[Warr]

I would do that. But... I don't really like the idea of having odd patches of exposed metal on my bike from where the rust was. I would prefer to keep it visually consistent. Unless you're saying that the CRC 66 will remove the rust and preserve the paint underneath without the need of having to steel wool or sand paper over it.

Give it a try. The exposed metal / rusty bits, will once treated, darken and merge in with the original black frame.
Minimum effort for max benefit works for me !

..... and if later you decide to touch up with some paint, the CRC 66 dries enough to take an oil based primer/paint.

WRT a hard wearing Black paint Search out some PA10. This is a Marine Etch Primer that on a frame can be used as is ... no final coat required

[Matariki]

So, at the moment I'm trying to work out what I need to have on my list (I'm going to get a refund for the CRC Silicone spray since don't need it, I'll find a future use for the steel wool and steel brush). I've done a bit more research and I think following tools should be appropriate (I know this thread might sound over the top, yet alone having to even think about this, but this is my first time doing anything like this and I would prefer not to screw it up )

I will try Warr's method first before purchasing any paint.

For washing the bike (prepping the bike for painting):

Car wash (without wax or polish) - Armour All Car Wash should be fine (I think)
Mircofiber sponge
Synthetic microfiber chamois

For removing rust:

Sandpaper - 400 grit (to remove rust) and 1000 grit (to smooth surface down for painting)
Large clean brush - To brush away loose rust and dust

For painting:

Masking Tape
News Paper
Hammerite: Rust to Metal Aerosal (Black)
PA 10 Primer (only if necessary as its a bit on the pricey side, I think the Hammerite should be alright though)

For future preservation:

Wax & Polish - (is Armour All ok?)
CRC 5.56 or CRC Marine 66

If you don't think this list is correct or appropriate, feel free to edit.