Headlight conversion?

[Matariki]

The current bulb in my headlight sucks. Period. I would like to change my bulb over to LED, since its more efficient and visible. My Suzuki TS 185 takes a twin filament bulb 6 volt, with a 25/25 watt rating. The other thing I want to know too if changing a bulb over to LED is legal in New Zealand. NZTA does state the following;

HID conversion kits (an HID bulb with a high voltage power unit or ‘ballast’ which fits into the original headlamp unit in place of the original bulb with no change to the headlamp lens, reflector or housing) are illegal on any vehicle being used on New Zealand roads.

However, a complete halogen headlamp unit can be replaced with a complete HID headlamp unit provided that the replacement headlamp unit complies with approved standards. If in doubt, get advice from a vehicle lighting retailer you trust.

I did find this video which appeared to explain it a bit better (however this is British and I don't know how different their rode code is to ours)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y5n38wDe684

I don't want to break the law (it costs too much money and I could loose my license if caught), but my lights suck. So what are my options?

[FJRider]

Will the TS system cope with the LED setup ... ??? Talk to an auto sparky. And make an informed decision ... (talk is free)

[Akzle]

I don't want to break the law, but my lights suck. So what are my options?

break the law.

[Rhys]

I am shore that the TS from about 1981 were 12v

[BMWST?]

you must fins a compatible headlight housing,not just a new lamp if you want to comply with the law

[Matariki]

Hmm... there appears to be nothing on the internet about 6 volt bulbs, only 12 volt for LED. That would mean I would have to do a conversion, which I would rather not do. I'm fine with a standard bulb, but I would like to get one of good quality. Anything that's better than the piece of dim crap I have now.

[Matariki]

I am shore that the TS from about 1981 were 12v

My haynes manual says 6v.

[Matariki]

I am shore that the TS from about 1981 were 12v

I doubled checked in my manual and you're right, that is the case for older models. Mine is 2003 model, but it appears to be based on the old school design. But it does state with the TS100 and TS125 ERZ models (which came out around the 80's) that they take a 12v. I'll have to open my bike up and have a look.

[Akzle]

I'll have to open my bike up and have a look.

just pull the bulb and put the multimeter across the contacts... ^_-

[FJRider]

I doubled checked in my manual and you're right, that is the case for older models. Mine is 2003 model, but it appears to be based on the old school design. But it does state with the TS100 and TS125 ERZ models (which came out around the 80's) that they take a 12v. I'll have to open my bike up and have a look.

A cheaper (and legal) option would be a fitted relay and a higher wattage bulb.

Not all 12 volt generating systems were created equal. So just fitting any old larger wattage, 12 volt bulb/system just may not work.

[Matariki]

So I opened up the front of bike. The bulb is a 12v35/35w. Then I checked the battery which is a Yuasa YTX4L (12v, capacity - 4Ah, cold cranking amps - 50A)

[Gremlin]

LED is usually no good for throwing light down the right, ie, as a headlight, unless they are high power (HP LED).

My trick for that was installing uprated bulbs, on normal bikes it's 55W. The uprated is a +50/+90/+100 bulb, but still only draws the standard 55W. Obviously a bulb that burns twice as bright burns half as long, so longevity often suffers.

See if there is an equivalent for 35W. Not recommended to increase wattage (from 35W to 55W for example), as you can destroy the headlight or burn out the wiring.

[Paul in NZ]

A 35W incandscent bulb isnt for lighting the way on a dark night, its more a navigation light to stop you being run over by a bus. Mr Suzuki never really thought anyone would actually use a TS185 much at night so back in the day it was made it was 'enough'...

My suggestion is something around 45/55W H4 which will be a missive improvement but hopefully not generate so much heat your headlight will collapse seconds before your electrical system into molten slag.

YOU WILL NEED TO OVERLAY YOUR WIRING AND ADD RELAYS.....

In other words build an auxillary loom to cope with it. The standard wiring switch etc can't cope. Use the battery feed to the current bulb to turn the relay off / on.

If you are unsure about what I mean by that sing out and I can post up a simple diagram

[sootie]

Early incandescent bulbs were argon filled. This tended to give quite a yellowish light. My big bike is like this, and I have been considering an upgrade, although I do not do much night riding on it.

In more recent years manufacturers have been filling simple incandescent headlight bulbs with Krypton and Xenon gases & mixtures of these. These heavier molecules reduce blackening of the inside of the glass envelope, and also give a whiter light. (Essentially you get more light for the same power.) This is quite different (obviously) from HID, quartz halogen or LED technology, but maybe some one can advise about practical detail like what is available.
I guess a simple bulb exchange should be possible without any worries about circuit over heating or overload.
Have all modern headlight bulbs now moved away from argon filling?

This is an interesting thread.

[Paul in NZ]

This has been covered on KB a few times but basically...

If your bike does not have relays in the light cct from new then the current is being routed through the feeble light switch on the bars and the thin wiring to suit.

Putting a bigger bulb will increase the losses and is a waste of time.

To test, open up the back of the headlight and identify the hot feed into the bulb. Make up a fused lead from the hot side of the battery long enough to reach the headlight. Turn on the headlight and touch the hot lead onto the hot feed. If the bulb brightens you have significant losses in the feed to the light and there are gains in fitting relays.