Put in a bunch of time on the FXR this weekend replacing crap and maintaining it. I figure it's a good start having a well functioning bike if I want to knock 0.7s off my Mt Welly times.
I made some new sliders for my bike and Denis' bike
Got rid of the annoyingly massive sliders from my foot pegs and heat shrinked the ends with some heavy duty mains shrink
Drilled and lock wired all the right places
Serviced the brake master cylinder with the parts I got from Tim, thanks bud
Gave the engine a once over to check everything is together properly
I still need to replace the rear tire, fork oil, and finish off the brakes but it's looking good so far. The exhaust will be the next port of call to try bring up some of that power I know is hidden in there.
The FXR now has a new braided brake line, a serviced master cylinder and new high grade brake fluid. They feel awesome in comparison. The pads still look like they have a good amount of meat on them and the disk isn't warped or worn badly which is always a plus.
I have the front end to pieces and the forks out. It'll likely be the first time it has ever had the fluid replaced
I bought some Spectro SAE 10 brake fluid for them but I'm wondering if I was better with some 15 weight oil. I've found going anti-clock at Mt Welly (and probably other circuits too) the forks are bottoming out in two corners. I think if they're still doing so after this service I'll try some 15 weight oil.
As a reference, the Suzuki manual says 10 weight oil and 219ml.
Anyone care to share their experiences with FXR forks?
10 weight brake fluid? !??
Thicker oil is good until you have to move the shaft quickly like over stutter bumps. Oh dear.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
Fork oil weight is a good stop gap for damper rod forks, but you mustn't forget that any gains you make on compression damping are matched on the rebound action.
So get the thing to stop bottoming out with golden syrup, and the forks won't extend again at a speed which keeps the tyre holding the road.
The technology is very limited. But you can braise the holes up on the compression circuit of the damper rods, and drill them smaller to effect one and not the other. It's trial and error method to get that right, but it works.
Emulators are cheap enough to buy, but if you can find someone who already has some they are even cheaper to replicate on a lathe. They're dead simple.
On a side note. If the fork oil has never been done, what are the chances that the shock oil has? Nill. It's just as important, and the fluid in the shock gets a much harder time than that in the forks. It should be replaced regularly but is mostly not something that people can do at home, so it gets forgotten.
Yeah the domain was lost when I stopped updating after years of running it. The wordpress site is still up at www.beeoneoneoh.wordpress.com
If you google beeoneoneoh you'll find lots of photos of mine and of my old Datsun 1200 truck. I did all the work on it myself and swapped an SR20DE engine (Nissan Silvia 2 litre non-turbo engine for those not into cars) into it. I drifted it a pretty good amount, it was crazy fun.
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Shock will be sealed. We used to drill and braze a schrader valve on the bottom and refill with oil.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
its certainly not the best, its just better to have new oil frothing than old oil frothing.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
No idea I don't have an fxr but I can't imagine anyone paying the same amount as the whole bike for a shock.
just another reason why I went the RS route as it had a rebuildable shock.
the other smart option for Auckland crew would be to talk the Chris Picket and get him to shorten an MX shock.
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
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