For all those little questions that pop up when modifying motorbikes...
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For all those little questions that pop up when modifying motorbikes...
"A shark on whiskey is mighty risky, but a shark on beer is a beer engineer" - Tad Ghostal
KB Chief Cat Herder
You might like to get this dude involved as well as a few others like Ocean1 etc.
Zen wisdom: No matter what happens, somebody will find a way to take it too seriously. - obviously had KB in mind when he came up with that gem
Artificial intelligence is no match for natural stupidity
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I'll go first, I'm doing some single point spline broaching (into ali), and have to grind up the broach tool as the hole size is about 8mm (gear shifter shaft). What material is best to grind into shape, and what grinding procedures (cooling etc) are needed. Have got plenty of busted carbide and HSS cutters if either of those materials would be suitable?
"A shark on whiskey is mighty risky, but a shark on beer is a beer engineer" - Tad Ghostal
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Yeh Ocean1 would be right up there, I figure with one thread to subscribe to, all the good/helpful engineers can much more easily keep tabs on the smaller issues.Originally Posted by Mental Trousers
"A shark on whiskey is mighty risky, but a shark on beer is a beer engineer" - Tad Ghostal
KB's Chief Cats
ali is soft, so anything harder. carbide / HSS are brittle, not so good under a press.
ideally something pre-splined. i can't think of anything 8mm pre-splined.
get some 8mm mild steel bar, get busy with needle file (or mill and rotary-indexing table if u have),
then case harden it.
-edit-
hang ten. get an old gear shifter shaft! (+ harden, either by quench, or furnace/case, as above)
Bogeyman
HSS is fine, and much easier to work than carbide.
You can try to do it in one pass per tooth, in which case you can grind a HSS drill down to the root dia, leaving a ring which is then ground to the tooth profile. Leave maybe 20mm at root dia before and after a 5mm ring. If you're taking it as easy as you should be you should get away without coolant but if you're doing it in the lathe it's just as easy to use the same soluable oil that uses. Need maybe 3-5 deg clearance and 15 to 20 deg top rake. What grinding gear do you have for that? For broaching I'd just do that in the lathe too, you can mark up the chuck to whatever No teeth you need and use a wire pointer in a DTI base. I use prolan as a cutting lube for high tip load work in alloy.
If that don't work you can make a smaller tool and take multiple cuts, with or without a support bush.
Go soothingly on the grease mud, as there lurks the skid demon
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Hadn't thought of doing in a lathe...
Whats the 3-5deg clearance relate to? Is it part of the spline profile?
I'm doing this mainly as a demo project for work, so it'll be a little vertical shaper type setup with a rotary table. Probably CNC it if we find much use for it. Either way multi pass will be easy enough.
We have a tool grinder, but some bastard lost all the collets for it, can make something up for it though. No tool post grinder... yet.
"A shark on whiskey is mighty risky, but a shark on beer is a beer engineer" - Tad Ghostal
Bogeyman
No, angular clearance between the faces trailing the cutting edge and the cut profile. Sharpening a drill the face you grind needs the trailing edge to be clear of the cutting edge, yes? That angle should normally be 3-5 deg. Top rake for alloy should usually be quite high.
Cool. Shapers are almost a lost art. I did my time on a fckung massive planer, fond memories of making swarf 1/2" wide x 2 thou thick x 8 ft long.
That's actually a bit tempting...
Go soothingly on the grease mud, as there lurks the skid demon
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ah, now I get it
Yeh often machines built for specific purposes end up being pretty neat.and here I thought the 5mm wide .15mm tick 300mm long swarf we were getting from the copy mill was a big bit.
Its not a bad wee unit, takes a bit to set up, but seems to have good precision. Not that it really gets used at all, we just buy whatever cutter is required, been able to source something for everything until now.
"A shark on whiskey is mighty risky, but a shark on beer is a beer engineer" - Tad Ghostal
Bogeyman
Prob a slight exageration, certainly well over 2M long. The swarf ribbon was 3-4" shorter than the workpiece, was 316 and if you looked too closely you'd bleed.
Go soothingly on the grease mud, as there lurks the skid demon
I aint bovvered
How much would it be to get a stainless brake disc made up? They can't be too hard to cut out would they?
How are they attached - rivetted? Can that be done in the shed or is it a specialist operation?
In life as in dance Grace glides on blistered feet
Bogeyman
Cost about $20 of laser or waterjet time, but the alloy normally used isn't what you might call "off the shelf".
You could try calling Sandvik, they might at least be able to tell you what it is, but even if it's available locally you're probably up for at least one sheet.
Don't ask.
Go soothingly on the grease mud, as there lurks the skid demon
In the riders seat
I had a guy do the design and then give it Sandvik to cut, it worked out somewhere between $300-400
"If you can make black marks on a straight from the time you turn out of a corner until the braking point of the next turn, then you have enough power."
Bogeyman
Well there y'go. Did you recall what the alloy is?
Go soothingly on the grease mud, as there lurks the skid demon
In the riders seat
No sorry, if you pm Marsheng on here he might know as he organised it
"If you can make black marks on a straight from the time you turn out of a corner until the braking point of the next turn, then you have enough power."
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