What is Savage LS650 correct oil?

[giro]

Changed the oil in my recently acquired '87 savage LS650 & I obviously have the wrong oil for this bike by the looks, as the clutch slips.
It is MOTO 4HP ECO, Synthetic Fortified, 4T 10W-40, Elf.

Does anybody KNOW what the correct oil to use is??
Thanks - Giro.

[GSF]

From Googling Elf Moto 4HP Eco, I can see that it's a four-stroke bike specific oil that is JASO rated MA, meaning that it's totally suitable for motorbike wet clutches.

To make sure it's the same stuff though, have a look on the bottle you've got and see if you can spot a JASO rating. MA equals all good, MB means not good for oil immersed clutch.

Get the feeling that your clutch slippage may not be oil related though.

[giro]

Thanks for the reply.
Yeah, it says (amongst the French) 'JASO MA2' & it has a picture of a bike on the label which is why I thought it would be a suitable oil.
Clutch never slipped before with the previous oil, which the former owner said was Mobil 1.

[GrayWolf]

Thanks for the reply.
Yeah, it says (amongst the French) 'JASO MA2' & it has a picture of a bike on the label which is why I thought it would be a suitable oil.
Clutch never slipped before with the previous oil, which the former owner said was Mobil 1.

This is an issue/topic that has come up on the MT-01 owners site. They are a high torque output motor and it seems that some synthetic, or synth blend oils produce clutch slip, for no scientific reason. Try a different oil, mineral? and see if it resolves said problem.

Also if clutch is cable operated, try adjusting it to the book, or if an hydraulic operated check the play at the lever and that the plunger inside the master cylinder is releasing fully.... failing that? Did you possibly overfill the oil? AND is the oil you used the correct viscosity? It may be bike oil, but Big singles/twins often use a heavier oil, especially air cooled bikes!!

[giro]

Thanks GrayWolf.
From one grumpy old bugger to another; yes the oil is overfilled, I havent got round to emptying a little.
I do have the clutch adjusted pretty tight. (it operates very soon on release)
The clutch actuating lever doesnt fully return on its own so I fitted a small spring to assist it. Takes up some of the play but wont fully return the lever even after I finger the clutch lever fully out with my finger tips.

Will slacken the clutch off & lower the oil & then get back.

[giro]

Well, I adjusted the clutch & lowered the oil & nothing change after a run.

It only occurs on full throttle & as I rarely use that, its not really going to affect my riding. Guess it is some internal wear. If I'm kind to 'er she may do likewise for me.

I'll try a change to a heavier mineral oil next oil-change as you suggested.
Thanks.

[giro]

4got!! Can you please advise what heavier mineral oil?
Cheers.

[nodrog:Me]

this may help -

http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/sh...rome-pack-rack

[awa355]

Your safest option, I think, would be to change your oil now and not wait untill the k's have clocked up with a slipping clutch. Four litres of oil is a whole lot cheaper than a bucket of clutch components.

[caspernz]

Maybe this is a dumb question...but is the clutch slipping because there's no meat left on the plates?

[GSF]

Maybe this is a dumb question...but is the clutch slipping because there's no meat left on the plates?

Could be this too, the bike is an '87 so it's not exactly a spring chicken, what sort of km's has it got on the clock?

In terms of weight I would expect it to take maybe 15w40 or 20w50.
I have an '81 Yamaha SR500, which is also an air-cooled big single, it takes 20w40 which is not so easy to find these days so I feed it 20w50.

Get yourself an owner's manual, it'll have the manufacturers specified oil weight.

[Motu]

Maybe this is a dumb question...but is the clutch slipping because there's no meat left on the plates?

I doubt it - from what I've read on the internet it's always the oil, never the worn out clutch.

[AllanB]

Mobil 1 is a full synthetic oil so if the [revious owner was using that your oil shoult not offer any signifiant problems.

[Motu]

Mobil 1 is a full synthetic oil

Not anymore, it's now Group III (hydro cracked dyno). That's still a good oil, but not full synthetic, which is Group IV and V....PAO and ester.

[giro]

Maybe this is a dumb question...but is the clutch slipping because there's no meat left on the plates?

Dunno what the plates are like & dont wanna look until I have to!