Well plan on taking it to Tauranga Red Baron for warrnty check. Noticed last nigh, adjusted clutch on bars but no diff.....however did notice you click from neutral into 1st & it clunks as if gone in but neutral light still on & still in neutral...generally goes in 2nd or 3rd try.
Same with trying it from neutral up to 2nd???
Pulling whats left of my frekkin hair out.....
"So if you meet me, have some sympathy, have some courtesy, have some taste ..."
on a brand new r1? take it back and get it looked at!
my 08 shift's like butter, hell don't even use the clutch except for getting off the line
the 12 has performed the same..
you do need to give them a solid kick into first when warm but every bike ive had does that.
you are disscribing more of a drum/ selector issue..
you do need to give them a solid kick into first when warm but every bike ive had does that.
you are disscribing more of a drum/ selector issue..[/QUOTE]
Thats what im thinking, the chain idea sounds good & easy but i cnat see how....theres no load on the chain, its just a pig to select 1st.
"So if you meet me, have some sympathy, have some courtesy, have some taste ..."
Well with it still having a warranty ive arranged to take it to Red Baron at the Mount next week, let them sort it.....good bunch of guys & saves me getting my hands dirty![]()
With any luck they'll change the oil and that will fix it.
"Sorry Officer, umm.... my yellow power band got stuck wide open"
I'd check that there's no air in the clutch lines. Bleed it, then bleed it again, then again.
My (old) Yamaha wouldn't shift down at all into first from neutral, going up and down back to 2nd was all good. The slave cylinder seal was rooted and I replaced that but it wasn't until I bled the clutch fluid of air did it really make a difference. Smooth as silk now - we as smooth as the old FJ can be!
Definitely check that out.
And thisEven lubing the chain improves the gear shifting on most bikes.
Generally (because I've never had the pleasure on an R1, the arm at the box that translates from clutch pull to pushing the push rod, is a little worm drive type thingy. If you've got one of those, disconnect the cable at the lever completely, then undo the lock nut on the worm drive thingy, and wind the adjuster screw all the way in (it'll bottom against the push rod). Then wind it out a smidge so it's not binding on the push rod any more, then lock the lock nut, then reconnect the cable and take up the slack (because that's the perches adjustments only purpose, not to adjust the clutch). I know that seems like a pretty minor difference, but it lets the actuators angles and shite work the way they were intended, and allows it to give the most push it can on the push rod.
Just remember when you have it adjusted properly like that, the clutch will feel quite different at the lever, so before you take off the first time, let the clutch lever out slowly so you get a feel for the new 'bite' point. Otherwise if it starts to bite when you just let the lever out like it's supposed to, and you're used to the bite not taking up till let the lever say halfway out, you might get a surprise!
Thirding this. Was riding a week ago and the bike was shifting like a dog, hard to select first, popping out of second into neutral under load - stopped to have a look and my chain was flapping around like crazy thing.
Tightened it up to spec and problem was instantly solved. Probably the quickest and easiest thing to knock off the list of possibles!
You want some advice - lightning strikes once, it does not strike twice!
does the bike try and move forward when in first gear with the clutch pulled in when you lift the revs above 4 or 5k. if it does the clutch may be dragging which could be incorrect oil or a wharped pressure plate. If not its sounding like a warrenty issue.
I have evolved as a KB member.Now nothing I say should be taken seriously.
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