ZXR250C carb help wanted

[ducatilover]

Nice, thanks guys!

I didn't know you could do it without taking the carbs off the bike... I have taken the tank off heaps of times before and the airbox also so that isn't a problem.

Really appreciate your help.

I've always managed on Kwakas of the era to do it on the bike
Holding the slide up a tiny bit with a spanner can help make it easier to get the diaphragms seated again too

[Spoonrider]

Do I need the 3mm or 4mm washers from Jaycar?

http://www.jaycar.co.nz/productView....r&form=KEYWORD
http://www.jaycar.co.nz/productView....r&form=KEYWORD

[ducatilover]

Either will do it I think, as long as they're not thick. I generally use .5mm ones with about 4mm diameter hole

[Spoonrider]

So I finally got around to taking the carbs off, they were a pig to get off as one of the screw heads on one of the collars that connect the carbs to the engine was munted. I then opened up one of the carbs and put the washers on only to find they are too wide and the plastic thing on the end of the spring wouldn't sit back over the needle properly... doh. So I had to put it back together as I was at my mechanic mate's workshop and I needed to ride home. Will get some more washers soon.

One thing I did notice is that a previous owner has done the slide mod where you drill a second hole in the bottom of the slide next to the one where the needle goes through. Could this possibly be the cause of my issues?

[ducatilover]

Yeah the slides could be raising too quick

[Spoonrider]

Which would be making it run rich I assume?

Can you get new slides for these bikes anymore?

[ducatilover]

Yeah, will make it stumble.
I'd try adjust the needles down first, if possible

To get around the slide issue, run a harder spring in it. I had a set of D32 springs, but one's gone AWOL.
Or, epoxy the hole up and sand it fairly flat underneath (we like air flow!)

Or... use this as an opportunity to get a uni-foam filter in it?

[Spoonrider]

ok so I was wrong, it doesn't have the carb slide mod done. I mistook the second factory hole on the slide as one that had been drilled.

I remember that when Spectrum looked at my problem and changed the orings between the airbox and carbs that the issue seemed to be fixed. Rode it a few times and there was no problem whatsoever, but then the issue came back after a couple of weeks which has always had me wondering why.

It dawned on me that as part of the work they did they removed the airfilter and re-oiled it. I am wondering if that temporarily fixed my issue by it running a bit richer from the oiled airfilter. I am going to oil the airfilter again and see if it makes any difference, if it does then at least I know that it is running lean for sure...

[ducatilover]

A look at the plugs will tell you it's lean

They will warp the plastic plate betweent he airbox/carbs with the velocity stacks if you do the bolts up too tight.

[Spoonrider]

yeah, would have looked at the plugs but they are hard to get at without removing the radiator. :-(

[ducatilover]

It's not a hard job though and a good excuse to do the coolant and get to know your bike

Plus, when the radiator is off, I can steal it for my bike

[Spoonrider]

I wish you lived in auckland lol :-)

[ducatilover]

I'm glad I don't

[Spoonrider]

do you know of any how to's to take the radiator off?

[ducatilover]

Been a while since I've done one, but I'm certain there's two 10mm bolts up top of it and one bolt, or locating pin under it
Take the drain plug out the bottom of the water pump (8mm bolt)
Remove the inner fairing filler piece around the rad (again, hazy memory, easy when I have a ZXR in front of me), un-do the radiator pipes, un-do the temp sensor, remove the bolts for the rad, wriggle it out, un clip the plug on the fan
Put radiator in box, send to me