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Thread: Sharpening knives?

  1. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by Banditbandit View Post
    Fuck me ... so they are ... AND ????? (Jeez, even I didn't think you were that bourgeoise!!!)

    (Knives have a little more finese than hatchets adn tomahawks ... and are not so bulky to cfarry ...)
    bourgeoisie your word of the month or something? must be the fifth time you've tried applying it to me...

    dunno mann... knives are more close quarter tools (IM-humble-O).
    tomahawks are badass. (plus you can use the blunt end for clubbing when you're feeling less murderous)


    Quote Originally Posted by tbs View Post
    ((big knife video))
    check out the tuna carving for japan fish markets. it's nifty. (plus big knives)

  2. #47
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    Retired butcher. Fine stone with dishwash liquid and water mix enough to keep blade cool and wash away grind. Even strokes of cutting edge at same angle on one side blade from heel to point to get a burr of edge, turn over to burr other side at same angle 20 degrees is good, remove burr, then even light strokes each side to sharp. The gadgets take the angle guess work out but possible greater angles over 30 degrees too much?
    Fine steel heel top to bottom point lightly keeping angle or easier moving knife hand across middle of steel lightly style to feather off edge ( watch Gordon Farkin Ramsey).
    The more ya do it the better ya get.
    store knives to protect the cutting edge in a block/ pouch and yes, away from those that should be obeyed.
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  3. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Akzle View Post
    bourgeoisie your word of the month or something? must be the fifth time you've tried applying it to me...

    dunno mann... knives are more close quarter tools (IM-humble-O).
    tomahawks are badass. (plus you can use the blunt end for clubbing when you're feeling less murderous)



    check out the tuna carving for japan fish markets. it's nifty. (plus big knives)


    "Bourgeoise" is about the worst insult I can think of for someone who claims to be outside any system - especially as your attitudes betray the total bougeoiseness of your posts and your thinking ...

    Yeah ... knives are close quarter ... and as I was once told, never throw away a weapon .. that's why if I'm carrying I carry more than one - one throwing, one good close quarter blade.
    "So if you meet me, have some sympathy, have some courtesy, have some taste ..."

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    I got a set of Lansky universal sharpening stones with a clamp set up that ensures consistent sharpening angles. I got the set with three normal stones (coarse, Medium & fine) plus a serrated edge stone. I took seven of our really blunt knives (incl two which had been butchered by using a coarse steel to sharpen them). It took about an hour and a half all up to cut them back to factory like cut angles and finish them so I could shave the hairs off my arm with a single pass (razor sharp). They are now dangerous as fuck and I have pissed the wife off by throwing away her glass cutting boards. I think I will throw the steel away as well, as it tears the edges to shreds.

    Here's the budget three stone system. You cant go wrong with these.
    http://www.trademe.co.nz/sports/hunt...-546987703.htm
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    I was taught by an old school butcher. FFS, don't let my man near my bloody knives. Watched him in stunned silence for a second or two then removed knife and steel before he could wreck the blade completely...now I do the sharpening and he does the cooking. Works for us.
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    Who would have thought that a thread about knife sharpening would go 4 pages?
    FWIW I use a steel on a couple of knives and don't bother otherwise. Big side effect from sharpening knives with a steel at our house, caused by sharpening a knife to fillet fish. When I am steeling a blade now, our cat comes running like it is being chased by a demon.
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    I use my gerber field sharpener on the kitchen knives and a stone on the gerber knife.
    If the hardness of the knife isnt high like our kitchen knives sharpening tools seem to work well but you need do them more often.
    I have evolved as a KB member.Now nothing I say should be taken seriously.

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    An oil stone is best used for shaping the blade and getting the angle right, when using a steel the angle it is used will determine the sharpness of the blade use a long stroke from the hilt to the tip , when done right the blade will sing.
    I've been a chef for over 35yrs and have had most of my knives for over 30 yrs, it's a case of using the right knife for a specific job. A top notch 10 inch chef's knife can cost up 300 dollars , a full set can top 4g.

  9. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by ktm84mxc View Post
    An oil stone is best used for shaping the blade and getting the angle right, when using a steel the angle it is used will determine the sharpness of the blade use a long stroke from the hilt to the tip , when done right the blade will sing.
    I've been a chef for over 35yrs and have had most of my knives for over 30 yrs, it's a case of using the right knife for a specific job. A top notch 10 inch chef's knife can cost up 300 dollars , a full set can top 4g.

    Yup. I've been cooking that long I still have knives made of flint. Knapping is a dying art.
    Other guys at work use a mechanical sharpener and I can see their knives getting skinnier by the week. The edge only lasts for a day or two because of the minute scalloping too.
    Get a Shun!! Pure sex for us kitchen types.
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  10. #55
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    Your onto it George me old tucker fucker upper those powered wheels do wear the blades down quick, love me Sabatier carbon steel blades stay sharp and last for ever.
    Never been a fan of Globals prefer a Gustav or Heckels, a diamond steel can be good valve instead of a stone for getting the angle right.

  11. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by flyingcrocodile46 View Post
    I got a set of Lansky universal sharpening stones with a clamp set up that ensures consistent sharpening angles. I got the set with three normal stones (coarse, Medium & fine) plus a serrated edge stone. I took seven of our really blunt knives (incl two which had been butchered by using a coarse steel to sharpen them). It took about an hour and a half all up to cut them back to factory like cut angles and finish them so I could shave the hairs off my arm with a single pass (razor sharp). They are now dangerous as fuck and I have pissed the wife off by throwing away her glass cutting boards. I think I will throw the steel away as well, as it tears the edges to shreds.

    Here's the budget three stone system. You cant go wrong with these.
    http://www.trademe.co.nz/sports/hunt...-546987703.htm
    That's what I use as well,,,the kit with the diamond stone.

    Bought it for sharpening broadheads but now use it for all my knives and I've retired my old stones.

    It's kind of funny how many people I know that claim to be able to sharpen blades properly,,,but carry blunt knives and won't buy a Lansky kit because their so good at sharpening things already

  12. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by ktm84mxc View Post
    Your onto it George me old tucker fucker upper those powered wheels do wear the blades down quick, love me Sabatier carbon steel blades stay sharp and last for ever.
    Never been a fan of Globals prefer a Gustav or Heckels, a diamond steel can be good valve instead of a stone for getting the angle right.

    I can't pass a second hand shop in the hope of finding a good, old, black steel Sabatier. No luck yet. Out of the whole range their are only 2 globals I like. Purely for blade shop, not quality. Ze German cutlery is good & dependable but some of the blades are very hard & take a lot of honing if they get really blunt. I have a Montana, Italian I think, made from Sandvik hack saw steel. Bassid of a thing to get a polished edge on. Bloody heavy too, more like a sword than a knife. I bought it for splitting Halibut.

    I've been quite impressed with the ceramic steels but how do you get them clean? And don't drop it!!!!
    Manopausal.

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    ((thread expansion))
    magnetic knife racks... use em?

  14. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by george formby View Post
    I can't pass a second hand shop in the hope of finding a good, old, black steel Sabatier. No luck yet. Out of the whole range their are only 2 globals I like. Purely for blade shop, not quality. Ze German cutlery is good & dependable but some of the blades are very hard & take a lot of honing if they get really blunt. I have a Montana, Italian I think, made from Sandvik hack saw steel. Bassid of a thing to get a polished edge on. Bloody heavy too, more like a sword than a knife. I bought it for splitting Halibut.

    I've been quite impressed with the ceramic steels but how do you get them clean? And don't drop it!!!!
    To clean Ceramics buy an ultrasonic cleaner with a long dish.

    The more powerfull the better.

  15. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by Akzle View Post
    oil stone, steel, strop, newspaper.
    usually in that order.
    For clarity....you sharpen the knife on an oil stone, then a steel then you......... have a strop? What is the newspaper for? To catch the result of the strop or wipe the end?

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