Electrical woes

**98tls** · 29th December 2012, 20:14

Originally Posted by Akzle

autoranging pocket DMM: bout 25$ from jaycar.
i carry one with (it's a dick smith one, from back in the day when dick smith wasn't shit), does everything but current measurement. for which i have a handy dandy 200mv current shunt. (and three other multimeters to choose from)

OR
supercheap have 20$ jobbies with 10A range or te ware-whare have a 20A one for about 40$.
OR
jaycar have non contact clamp meters which will do some massive current range, bout 90$ though.

well worth les investment, i reckon.

no lights at all indicates mainest fuse or fusible link (if they have them on your bike?)
i know you checked, check again. check also the fuse box - is it rusty as shit? are the crimp lugs in the back of the harnesses all in good order?
also, an odd problem i had with my truck, but when the coil isn't connected to the dizzy, i get the same symptom (no electrical showing up)
-did you knock something (wire, plug, lead etc) off when doing your oil change?

Cheers,as you say to me anyway with very limited knowledge i am thinking the main fuse or thereabouts,did remove it and it was fine though just for the "you never know" thing i replaced it with the spare.The bikes old but well loved and has been to bits a few times and been put back together when mucking about though not so recently.Fuse box etc looks all good but will have another gander and maybe have a look at individual connectors etc.The fusible link thing i havent sorted yet ie wether it has any or not,will do.

**paturoa** · 29th December 2012, 20:20

So for tomorrow.....

Given that you did an oil change makes me suspect the side stand circuit as that is in the general location.

1) Set the meter to DC VOLTS (and select a voltage bigger than 12 if it isn't autoranging) Test the batt first and you should see near 13v if you've charged it over night. Put the probes on the meter battery terminals them selves. If it looks good then turn on the ignition key and the voltage should only drop a few tenths of a volt. Given that it is dead then prob no change.

Leave the key switched on if you see NO voltage change. If you smell the magic blue smoke that comes from electrical stuff then .... turn the key off and get the fire extinguisher?

2) Now test the voltage on the wiring itself attached to the battery, not the batt terminals themselves (to eliminate the terminals). Not the bolts either.
3) Then put the black lead somewhere on the engine and the voltage should be good from the postive side of the battery as well. (Testing the earth side of things).

Zooks normally have the main power head off from the battery in a big fat wire to a combo 30amp / starter relay. From that fuse it goes to the starter relay and the power circuit. The power circuit goes to the ignition switch, then to another fuse, then to the side stand relay, then to to kill switch, then to a common rail to the ECU and other stuff.

4) Take the plastic cover off the starter relay 30 amp fuse combo thing and you should see 2 metal bits on the top of the fuse. Using the meter black to earth test both sides of the fuse, you should see over 12v. Also test both sides of the relay. only one should show 12v.

It gets complicated from here.......

**98tls** · 29th December 2012, 20:23

Partys over.1st pic is just after it went poof,second is admitting defeat,even a box of Bourbon for inspiration didnt help

Will resume in the morrow.Thanks for the help so far you lot.

**paturoa** · 29th December 2012, 20:24

Did you check the tyre pressure?

**jellywrestler** · 29th December 2012, 20:25

Originally Posted by paturoa

3) Then put the black lead somewhere on the engine and the voltage should be good from the postive side of the battery as well. (Testing the earth side of things).

may sound pedantic but this needs to be on a steel part, ie not paint as it wont register, and not the carb/injection bodies as they may well be rubber mounted....

**bogan** · 29th December 2012, 20:26

Well, at least if all goes awry it'll still be a nice ornament

+1 to paturoa's advice. If that doesn't work, find and post up a wiring diagram and someone here can talk you through the next bit I'm sure.

**paturoa** · 29th December 2012, 20:27

Originally Posted by jellywrestler

may sound pedantic but this needs to be on a steel part, ie not paint as it wont register, and not the carb/injection bodies as they may well be rubber mounted....

Given the thickness of paint on zooks, it prob wouldn;t make much diff~?

**98tls** · 29th December 2012, 20:30

Originally Posted by paturoa

So for tomorrow.....

Given that you did an oil change makes me suspect the side stand circuit as that is in the general location.

1) Set the meter to DC VOLTS (and select a voltage bigger than 12 if it isn't autoranging) Test the batt first and you should see near 13v if you've charged it over night. Put the probes on the meter battery terminals them selves. If it looks good then turn on the ignition key and the voltage should only drop a few tenths of a volt. Given that it is dead then prob no change.

Leave the key switched on if you see NO voltage change. If you smell the magic blue smoke that comes from electrical stuff then .... turn the key off and get the fire extinguisher?

2) Now test the voltage on the wiring itself attached to the battery, not the batt terminals themselves (to eliminate the terminals). Not the bolts either.
3) Then put the black lead somewhere on the engine and the voltage should be good from the postive side of the battery as well. (Testing the earth side of things).

Zooks normally have the main power head off from the battery in a big fat wire to a combo 30amp / starter relay. From that fuse it goes to the starter relay and the power circuit. The power circuit goes to the ignition switch, then to another fuse, then to the side stand relay, then to to kill switch, then to a common rail to the ECU and other stuff.

4) Take the plastic cover off the starter relay 30 amp fuse combo thing and you should see 2 metal bits on the top of the fuse. Using the meter black to earth test both sides of the fuse, you should see over 12v. Also test both sides of the relay. only one should show 12v.

It gets complicated from here.......

Cheers P,will do.Batterys indicating fully charged on the meter so will see what happens with that in the morrow.Very very helpful stuff thank you.

**98tls** · 29th December 2012, 20:36

Originally Posted by paturoa

Did you check the tyre pressure?

No but just about everything else,the mrs just remarked "thank god its electrical or the thing would be in bits in the morning"

If it was mechanical i would simply buy some more bourbon and spend the night in the shed making it right,sparks n things scare me so i will await the meter thingy.

**FJRider** · 30th December 2012, 14:39

Originally Posted by 98tls

No but just about everything else,the mrs just remarked "thank god its electrical or the thing would be in bits in the morning"

If it was mechanical i would simply buy some more bourbon and spend the night in the shed making it right,sparks n things scare me so i will await the meter thingy.

Have you tried this site .. ??

http://www.tlzone.net/forums/suzuki-...g-diagram.html

**FJRider** · 30th December 2012, 14:47

Looking at the diagram ... on/at the Starter relay (bottom right) shown to the left of the letter M (Main Fuse) is the symbol (I think) for a fusible link.

**bogan** · 30th December 2012, 14:52

Originally Posted by FJRider

Looking at the diagram ... on/at the Starter relay (bottom right) shown to the left of the letter M (Main Fuse) is the symbol (I think) for a fusible link.

That'll relate to that large size blade fuse he has already checked I would think (same symbol used for blade fuses as for fuseable links), which he has checked. Still one of the first places to stick the multimeter anyway. Or maybe he has some more 'friends' around

Hard to read wiring diagram, couldn't you find a color coded one?

**FJRider** · 30th December 2012, 15:00

Originally Posted by bogan

That'll relate to that large size blade fuse he has already checked I would think (same symbol used for blade fuses as for fuseable links), which he has checked. Still one of the first places to stick the multimeter anyway. Or maybe he has some more 'friends' around

Hard to read wiring diagram, couldn't you find a color coded one?

He may have checked the Fuse Box (shown on the diagram to the left of the horn) but may not be aware (Few would be) of the Main fuse on/at the starter relay.

I have no problem reading/following the diagram ...

**bogan** · 30th December 2012, 15:13

Originally Posted by FJRider

He may have checked the Fuse Box (shown on the diagram to the left of the horn) but may not be aware (Few would be) of the Main fuse on/at the starter relay.

I have no problem reading/following the diagram ...

Just a problem reading/following the thread then?

Originally Posted by 98tls

Cheers,as you say to me anyway with very limited knowledge i am thinking the main fuse or thereabouts,did remove it and it was fine though just for the "you never know" thing i replaced it with the spare.