Electrical woes

**BMWST?** · 30th December 2012, 15:34

i am thinking a problem at the ign barrel itself

**nadroj** · 30th December 2012, 16:41

Originally Posted by FJRider

Ignition fuse is often believed to be main fuse. Time will tell ...

Had the same problem with the Busa - the main fuse is well hidden behind and to one side of the battery.

**paturoa** · 30th December 2012, 16:54

Originally Posted by nadroj

Had the same problem with the Busa - the main fuse is well hidden behind and to one side of the battery.

There are actualy 2 "main" fuses on the TL, like most modern zooks. The first is in a combo unit with the starter solenoid and the second is the Ingition fuse in the fuse block.

Edit: pic of the combo solenoid with its cover http://www.tlzone.net/forums/attachm...nnector-ss.jpg

**hayd3n** · 30th December 2012, 16:56

its farked m8 just chuck it in the harbour and claim insurance, what's the worst that could happen

**scumdog** · 30th December 2012, 17:12

Originally Posted by 98tls

Yes it does,ive read of a few problems with the sidestand switch,i had mine on a paddock stand when it went poof.No lights anywhere mate,turn the key and nothing,no lights anywhere nor does the fuel pump prime etc.

Ya gotta watch them poofs Mike

And without going over the whole thread...did you clean and check the battery lead connections at the terminals and check the frame end of the earth lead is making good contact too?

**FJRider** · 30th December 2012, 17:20

Originally Posted by scumdog

Ya gotta watch them poofs Mike

It's a suzuki ... not a honda.

**davereid** · 30th December 2012, 17:33

Originally Posted by 98tls

Cheers P,will do.Batterys indicating fully charged on the meter so will see what happens with that in the morrow.Very very helpful stuff thank you.

Once you have used the voltmeter for establishing that the battery is OK, its best to put it away.

A simple test lamp is much better value, and its the tool you should choose first for a fault of this nature.

A volt meter measures electrical pressure. The better it is, the less "current" it needs to do its job.

A top spec volt meter will give you full battery voltage just by holding the pos lead in your left hand and touching the pos battery post with your right.

But your bike still wont go.

A test lamp draws half an amp or so. It will visually show whats going on.

Once you get used to it, and you can relate the "look" of the lamp to the voltage under test, you will be much better able to find your fault.

Watch an auto electrician. He will always use a good volt/amp/ohm meter. But his main tool is a test lamp.

**98tls** · 30th December 2012, 17:46

Righto guys just got in,things didnt go as planned and after putting the supposedly charged battery in the Mrs decided we were doing family stuff which basically meant all day was wasted

Anyways with the battery in i turn the key..still nothing/nought/nada signs of life,rechecked all the fuses,both in the box behind headlight and the 30 slightly forward of the battery,all fine.Didnt have any time to grab the meter.Weirdest of all when putting the car away in the shed not 5 minutes ago i walk past the bike and on a whim turn the key on,bloody headlight comes on,not very bright and only for a few seconds then fades to nothing,fuel pump didnt prime.So this means what?the batterys toast but if so why when i fitted it i got nothing then many hours later the headlight comes on.Will be well chuffed if its as simple as a buggered battery though as i posted well back will be surprised as its not that old.

**FJRider** · 30th December 2012, 17:56

Put a battery in you know is good ... and go from there ... understanding electrics is like understanding women. (Electrics being more predictable) and sparks from seemingly nowhere and for no understandable reason ...

**bogan** · 30th December 2012, 18:03

Sounds more like a dodgy connection if the charged battery didn't give life when it went in, but did a few hours later.

**98tls** · 30th December 2012, 18:23

Originally Posted by bogan

Sounds more like a dodgy connection if the charged battery didn't give life when it went in, but did a few hours later.

Weird eh,will do as fj says and tommorow get a battery i know is good and see what happens,ive cleaned all the connections around battery and starter relay,read on TL site guys having problems with the relay but mines clean as a whistle,cant understand the lights coming on at all,i just left the battery hooked up did nothing else until as i said turning the key many hours later.

**bogan** · 30th December 2012, 18:28

Originally Posted by 98tls

Weird eh,will do as fj says and tommorow get a battery i know is good and see what happens,ive cleaned all the connections around battery and starter relay,read on TL site guys having problems with the relay but mines clean as a whistle,cant understand the lights coming on at all,i just left the battery hooked up did nothing else until as i said turning the key many hours later.

Yeh my money is still on the ignition contacts, would make sense as it was the only thing moved between not working then briefly working. Course each time it briefly works is probably destroying the contacts a bit more, if that is the case.