ESE's works engine tuner

[F5 Dave]

Well, if yer goanna do something. . . I've always gone out of the way to make the sprocket as close to the pivot as possible, if that meant cutting the engine case then so be it. But you can see an inch of daylight!

Then the engine is crazy high. Heck you could limbo under that engine. It's got more ground clearance than my dirtbike.

That sw is on quite an angle & there won't be the weight of the 4 cylinder engine compressing it. How about making some extender dogarms on the rear suspension to pull the rear down a bit? They are only steel plate. Then drop the forks an equivlent amount, you can see from the cable ties presumably what doesn't get stroked (don't need upper dust seals if after last few mm). You could cant the engine forward a bit too & add more gear oil. Tex's is like that in the RGV.

That tank should do you for a season's racing on one fill.

. . . Then cut the frame near the pivot where the weld is, remove 4 inches (like cut out the word 'BOX') & weld it back up.

[bucketracer]

Hmmmmm all good comments.............Dad and Chambers might have to look at it again..

[Buckets4Me]

Well, if yer goanna do something. . . I've always gone out of the way to make the sprocket as close to the pivot as possible, if that meant cutting the engine case then so be it. But you can see an inch of daylight!

Then the engine is crazy high. Heck you could limbo under that engine. It's got more ground clearance than my dirtbike.

That sw is on quite an angle & there won't be the weight of the 4 cylinder engine compressing it. How about making some extender dogarms on the rear suspension to pull the rear down a bit? They are only steel plate. Then drop the forks an equivlent amount, you can see from the cable ties presumably what doesn't get stroked (don't need upper dust seals if after last few mm). You could cant the engine forward a bit too & add more gear oil. Tex's is like that in the RGV.

That tank should do you for a season's racing on one fill.

. . . Then cut the frame near the pivot where the weld is, remove 4 inches (like cut out the word 'BOX') & weld it back up.

they can always do thant on the next one . Ha HA hA

[Bren_chch]

Well, if yer goanna do something. . . I've always gone out of the way to make the sprocket as close to the pivot as possible, if that meant cutting the engine case then so be it.

yeah maybe an inch of daylight is too much.

i've got this issue with an engine i have built and fitted to an rs125 frame, the engine is soooo long, so i machined the casings as much as i could, some of the frame and moved mounts but its still quite a fair way off the swingarm pivot point as i also like to have them as close as possible to the pivot point. In saying that... on bikes with small hp like the bucket i really think it makes no odds if the drive is that far off the pivot point. but it is good practice to keep it close as possible.

Anyhow Dave, can you PM me your email addy, i got some photos for you.

[Buckets4Me]

Anyhow Dave, can you PM me your email addy, i got some photos for you.

you will get him into trouble sending him porn

[Bren_chch]

you will get him into trouble sending him porn

Its BUCKET porn!

[Skunk]

Its BUCKET porn!

Share it then....

[Buckets4Me]

Its BUCKET porn!

thats still PORN if the wife catches him

post post POST post

[TZ350]

……make the sprocket as close to the pivot as possible………the engine is crazy high……..

That sw is on quite an angle……How about making some extender dogarms on the rear suspension to pull the rear down a bit? They are only steel plate. Then drop the forks an equivlent amount…….You could cant the engine forward a bit too & add more gear oil…….

That tank should do you for a season's racing on one fill……..

Then cut the frame near the pivot where the weld is, remove 4 inches (like cut out the word 'BOX') & weld it back up.

The engine does look crazy high. We would like to have the axels, crank, drive sprocket and swing arm pivot all in line, with one-quarter extension and three-quarters compression of the suspension at normal riding load.

We had planned on lowering it all like you suggest. I was surprised at how light the dog bones are, should be easy to make new ones out of some strap.

The tank does look ugly big, but its mostly hollow underneath, rocker covers, carbs, or air-box, not sure what went there but there is a big space underneath the tank.

If the sprocket is not close as possible to the swing-arm then I can see problems with chain tension and at 37rwhp the bike will probably want to squat when powering out of corners.

I have been looking at how Mxr’s deal with chain tension to see if we can copy that.

We had positioned the motor forward to get the weight distribution we wanted, hadn’t thought of cutting the frame and bringing the front wheel back. Something to think about thanks for the idea Dave.

Looking at the swing-arm angles, The Delta, Speedpros #6 and a real FZR250.

Yep mine is wrong, it's to steep, there is more to this engine transplant biz than meets the eye.

[TZ350]

Miserable prick!
Surprised you didn't mention the hefty weight as well...

90 something kg's..........about the same as my GP125......but nothing like a light weight RS.........

[boostin]

Well, if yer goanna do something. . . I've always gone out of the way to make the sprocket as close to the pivot as possible, if that meant cutting the engine case then so be it. But you can see an inch of daylight!

Hi Dave,

What is the general idea with getting the sprocket as close to the pivot? Is it some sort of neutral position for squat/wheelie ? (please excuse my ignorance!)

[TZ350]

It's got more ground clearance than my dirtbike. That sw is on quite an angle........

Thanks Dave, I got the tape measure out and found my rear shock is 20mm longer than Chambers one in his FZR.,,,,why,,,

[Pumba]

Thanks Dave, I got the tape measure out and found my rear shock is 20mm longer than Chambers one in his FZR.,,,,why,,,

Sounds like steve had been playing in the frames former life, actually I have a shock here in the shed for a FZR, not sure what model but you are welcome to it to see if it fits

[Buckets4Me]

I remember a post that went something like a pit bike shock of around the right length was put into the delta ????
my memory is a bit fuzzy

DID YOU SAY 37 HP ???????

[Henk]

Hi Dave,

What is the general idea with getting the sprocket as close to the pivot? Is it some sort of neutral position for squat/wheelie ? (please excuse my ignorance!)

The closer the sproket is to the pivot the less chain slack you will need. When the swingarm is in line with the sprocket and pivot the chain is at its tightest, the further from the pivot the sprocket the more slop you need at each end of suspension travel. This is why the BMW 450 has them concentric. Get the chain too tight at max travel and when it gets to its tightest pont it may try to tear the output shaft out of the motor or snap the chain. With dirtbikes the strictly correct way to set the chain tension is to pull the shock out, line everything up and tighten the chain so it has about 5mm of slop. lazy buggers line swingarm up by hauling it down with a tie down.