That's fantastic news, but mainly 'cause it means she made it there & thus took my tyres
.
Well I've been having a bear of a time on the dyno. My MB just won't pull consistent runs. Now I know the cases leak due to incompetent welding many years ago despite gluing them together & new crank seals (I spent a couple of hours on the mill today on new cases).
But the behavior on the dyno is queer. it is making peak power at 10,000 & falling off a couple of hp or lots & ign trace goes. When it wasn't running as well peak power was 12,200. That is what it is tuned for & hits it.
I changed the ign as the NF4 RS igns are often dodgy, but no better, in fact worse. But the odd thing is it runs up better often if I start the run from 4000rpm. And in an 'all gear' run it occasionally pulls through & makes power & that gear curve is much wider than the rest. It does make a bit of a noise on the run & seems to pass through the gear a bit quick.
But a slipping clutch doesn't behave like that, I've had a H100 (same as MB clutch) slip & they tend to slip a bit when cold & lock up. Or just stay slipping, but from low revs. Now I have a Green modified pack which handles his 30hp with a touch of preload on the std springs.
I did have an issue when I first ran the bike on a long high gear cct as it slipped and I had to be careful how I applied the power, then as it got warm it seemed better. I made some spacers & preloaded it so it coilbinds just as the lever touches the grip.
As I lay awake (you may notice the timestamp is 4:30am) I am pondering the leaking cases. . .but; what I think I have created is a consistent action clutch that slips after a certain level of power - that is made after 10,000. Time for new plates & retry. Or stiffer springs.
Or try & think of a new hypothesis as why a 4,000 rpm run or an all gear run makes it carburete better at 12,000. Not that the slow rev start should have much effect on the clutch, but who knows?
Don't you look at my accountant.
He's the only one I've got.
Bookmarks